bootlegger
Enginerd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2017
- Threads
- 9
- Messages
- 1,765
- Reaction score
- 593
- Location
- Mount Pleasant, SC
- First Name
- James
- Vehicle(s)
- Ex 2008 Mustang GT Owner
You do all that for $1400?It's the hours and hours of prep most folks are not either equipped, trained or feel comfortable with. Easy is a relative term depending on the coating and how it's applied, in addition to one knowing their environment, i.e. Time of day / temperature / equipment such as proper lighting, all relating to how the coatings flash and how many towels (what towel system do you employ)?
Having the proper equipment and supplies at your disposal is another thing to consider financially. I have an endless cabinet of supplies for each step of the process. So if you have to amass all this up front, plus gain the knowledge, sometimes it's easier to pay someone else, until otherwise.
I will stipulate that some coatings are easier to apply than others, each have their own pro's and con's. McKee's 37, Pinnacle Blacklabel, Blackfire are all entry level coatings... Easy on / easy off... Little to no high spot risk. I love GTechniq EXO.. It's easy and has good longevity. I shy away from GTechniq CS or CSL, as those require 1500 grit sand paper to remove the high spots. It clearly states that in their instructions.
I've always been a fan of CarPro, but you have two choices (TiO2) in CQuartz classic, or (SiO2) with CQUK 3.0. I prefer the SiO2, due to longevity over TiO2, but UK can be a BEAR to work with... Especially if your temps are over 100 like me.
Even as a seasoned pro, unless you have someone going behind you, there is always the dreaded "high-spot". Such coatings as CQuartz or CQUK 3.0 will require re-polishing any high spots.
One also has to understand all the prep work as mentioned above. You need the paint to be absolutely free and clear of contamination, otherwise the coating will not properly bond. In my travels, there aren't many (aside from detailers, weekend detailers, who study the likes of the detailing forums) that even know all the prep that goes in..
Our prep usually starts with cleaning an decontamination:
- Wheels / Wheel wells --> cleaned (including barrels)
- Iron-X Decontamination
- Foam Bath / wash with mitts.
- Inspect the paint with baggie test
- Clay
- Inspect the paint, if there are no swirls or scratches to get rid of, Usually a light polishing via DA and multiple polishing pads and your favorite polish (I like Megs 205 or Griot's BOSS Perfecting Cream) with multiple (x6) orange BOSS cutting pads
- If paint has scratches and defects, then a more moderate compounding session (Megs 105 / or BOSS fast correcting cream). Test spots will decide on dialing in proper pad and cream.
- Taping off trim
- Paint correction (based upon above)
*** ---> After correction, one must use an IPA mix or I use CarPro Erasure. This must be done before the coating to remove any of the polishing oils. Otherwise the coating will not bond.
I suggest taping off trim and glass. If you smear coating on glass usually one doesn't notice it right away until its cured... Then again, only polishing the glass will remove it.
Depending on time/temp/humidity will depend on how the coating is applied. If it's fairly hot (like here in AZ) coatings will have very fast flash times. It's better to work in small sections with the applicator. Ensure that you use the manufacturers recommended applicator and wipe-towels. I.E. CarPro suggests using their orange MF/Sued towels. I usually use a three towel method. Have LOTS of towels on hand and use the 8 sided fold method.
Once I work the coating, I have adequate lighting to see the flash, then I go to towel number one, flip it.. Ensure you overlap sections that where you didn't apply coating. Then flip the towel and wipe, then go to towel #2, and do the same, likewise towel number #3... usually on towel #3 I use a Scangrip Colour Match Hand Light to inspect as I wipe. I have LED's overhead and LED's to the sides.
Then I move on... Switch out towels and applicators as needed. You'll know when your primary towel gets loaded down or saturated and smears coating instead of removing it.
It helps to have a 2nd or even 3rd person follow behind with the MF/Sued towels and overlap your wiping. It's one thing if your personal car has a high-spot, it's a different situation in my case when it's a customers care.
When all is said and done, pull the car into the sunlight and have towel in hand. Use the sun to inspect any high-spots. Having curing lights help, sunlight can cure too rapidly.
If you don't have curing lamps, just let the vehicle sit for about 24-48 hours. DO NOT get the vehicle wet or wash the vehicle until the manufacturers recommended cure time has been reached.
Some do 2nd coats, I don't see it's necessary.
Maintenance is a different article that I can write at another time.
Still sound easy?
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