Back from getting OptiCoat ceramic yesterday.

[302@12psi]

It looks great but I can't get over the cost for it. I HATE the fact that my garaged kept car gets so dusty sitting there and it is a chore to clean it for car events. But I still can't bite the bullet on getting it coated.

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[rocky5517]

It looks great but I can't get over the cost for it. I HATE the fact that my garaged kept car gets so dusty sitting there and it is a chore to clean it for car events. But I still can't bite the bullet on getting it coated.

I hear you. Mine sits garaged and gets dusty too but last nite I went to a local cruise nite. Rather than washing it I gave it a quick wipe with a detailing spray and a dry micro towel.You have to be careful which detailing sprays to use as some can hurt the ceramic. But I was done in 10 minutes. If the car had needed a wash, that's different. But it seems it hardly ever does.

 

[sdiver68]

Prices here are far lower, about 1/2 of quotes above by top shops and even less by "good" shops. I did wheels myself, not hard if you prep well and take your time.

 

[paul_g]

I became my own customer when I got my 2019 GT/CS. Pulled it in the shop and spent about 3 or 4 days on it. Still finding little things and fixing them.

Here is the thing, If you have the time and physical abilities... Doing this work is both understanding the process, obtaining the right products and some general knowledge and a whole lot of just jumping in. Mike Philips teaches folks in his Competition Ready classes form 7 years old to 87 years.

Head on over to Autogeekonline.net, and you CAN learn and do this all yourself. (And this is coming from someone who details)… You can do it! ;)

 

[Excel]

I paint corrected my car twice ,added a clear bra and never looked back
Ceramics look slick but are not protection and with all the dam bugs we get
in the south I need protection over shine and the ability to scrub them fuckers off
without jacking up the paint

 

[EcoVert]

Man does that Kona Blue really POP

 

[Ray Knight]

Ceramic coatings are really easy to apply. Have you guys not tried doing it yourselves? I can't fathom paying over 1k to have someone do that. A wrap maybe but ceramic coatings are as easy as waxing a car. Maybe easier.

 

[paul_g]

Ceramic coatings are really easy to apply. Have you guys not tried doing it yourselves? I can't fathom paying over 1k to have someone do that. A wrap maybe but ceramic coatings are as easy as waxing a car. Maybe easier.

It's the hours and hours of prep most folks are not either equipped, trained or feel comfortable with. Easy is a relative term depending on the coating and how it's applied, in addition to one knowing their environment, i.e. Time of day / temperature / equipment such as proper lighting, all relating to how the coatings flash and how many towels (what towel system do you employ)?

Having the proper equipment and supplies at your disposal is another thing to consider financially. I have an endless cabinet of supplies for each step of the process. So if you have to amass all this up front, plus gain the knowledge, sometimes it's easier to pay someone else, until otherwise.

I will stipulate that some coatings are easier to apply than others, each have their own pro's and con's. McKee's 37, Pinnacle Blacklabel, Blackfire are all entry level coatings... Easy on / easy off... Little to no high spot risk. I love GTechniq EXO.. It's easy and has good longevity. I shy away from GTechniq CS or CSL, as those require 1500 grit sand paper to remove the high spots. It clearly states that in their instructions.

I've always been a fan of CarPro, but you have two choices (TiO2) in CQuartz classic, or (SiO2) with CQUK 3.0. I prefer the SiO2, due to longevity over TiO2, but UK can be a BEAR to work with... Especially if your temps are over 100 like me.

Even as a seasoned pro, unless you have someone going behind you, there is always the dreaded "high-spot". Such coatings as CQuartz or CQUK 3.0 will require re-polishing any high spots.

One also has to understand all the prep work as mentioned above. You need the paint to be absolutely free and clear of contamination, otherwise the coating will not properly bond. In my travels, there aren't many (aside from detailers, weekend detailers, who study the likes of the detailing forums) that even know all the prep that goes in..

Our prep usually starts with cleaning an decontamination:

- Wheels / Wheel wells --> cleaned (including barrels)
- Iron-X Decontamination
- Foam Bath / wash with mitts.
- Inspect the paint with baggie test
- Clay
- Inspect the paint, if there are no swirls or scratches to get rid of, Usually a light polishing via DA and multiple polishing pads and your favorite polish (I like Megs 205 or Griot's BOSS Perfecting Cream) with multiple (x6) orange BOSS cutting pads
- If paint has scratches and defects, then a more moderate compounding session (Megs 105 / or BOSS fast correcting cream). Test spots will decide on dialing in proper pad and cream.
- Taping off trim
- Paint correction (based upon above)
*** ---> After correction, one must use an IPA mix or I use CarPro Erasure. This must be done before the coating to remove any of the polishing oils. Otherwise the coating will not bond.

I suggest taping off trim and glass. If you smear coating on glass usually one doesn't notice it right away until its cured... Then again, only polishing the glass will remove it.

Depending on time/temp/humidity will depend on how the coating is applied. If it's fairly hot (like here in AZ) coatings will have very fast flash times. It's better to work in small sections with the applicator. Ensure that you use the manufacturers recommended applicator and wipe-towels. I.E. CarPro suggests using their orange MF/Sued towels. I usually use a three towel method. Have LOTS of towels on hand and use the 8 sided fold method.

Once I work the coating, I have adequate lighting to see the flash, then I go to towel number one, flip it.. Ensure you overlap sections that where you didn't apply coating. Then flip the towel and wipe, then go to towel #2, and do the same, likewise towel number #3... usually on towel #3 I use a Scangrip Colour Match Hand Light to inspect as I wipe. I have LED's overhead and LED's to the sides.

Then I move on... Switch out towels and applicators as needed. You'll know when your primary towel gets loaded down or saturated and smears coating instead of removing it.

It helps to have a 2nd or even 3rd person follow behind with the MF/Sued towels and overlap your wiping. It's one thing if your personal car has a high-spot, it's a different situation in my case when it's a customers care.

When all is said and done, pull the car into the sunlight and have towel in hand. Use the sun to inspect any high-spots. Having curing lights help, sunlight can cure too rapidly.

If you don't have curing lamps, just let the vehicle sit for about 24-48 hours. DO NOT get the vehicle wet or wash the vehicle until the manufacturers recommended cure time has been reached.

Some do 2nd coats, I don't see it's necessary.

Maintenance is a different article that I can write at another time.

Still sound easy?

 

[Ray Knight]

Not much prep needed on a brand new car. Thats when most people are getting it done. There are products like Meguires ceramic wax that work great and may not last as long but can be applied in 5 minutes after washing the car. Spray on wet, polish off with microfibers. Stays good for 4-6 months. But can be done every 2-3 washes and only takes a few extra minutes.

 

[paul_g]

Not much prep needed on a brand new car. Thats when most people are getting it done. There are products like Meguires ceramic wax that work great and may not last as long but can be applied in 5 minutes after washing the car. Spray on wet, polish off with microfibers. Stays good for 4-6 months. But can be done every 2-3 washes and only takes a few extra minutes.

That is the furthest thing from the truth, actually we spend about 16 hours on brand new cars that come off the truck…

Did you see my post above with a link to a new car prep on a GT/CS??? , we’re actually still working on that car. It was marred, scratched filled with rail dust, iron ore deposits. And of course dealerships always install the best swirls and scratches!

Go to my about page, click on the link to my website and you’ll see our new car package… I’ve written countless articles on new vehicle prep.

We’ve done brand new AMG GTS’s, Maserati’s, CLS550’s, Stingrays and Mustangs. All horrid from the dealership.

Sorry, but I have to disagree with your statement that new cars don’t need much. I’ve been doing this too long...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Did you see my post above with a link to a new car prep on a GT/CS??? , we’re actually still working on that car. It was marred, scratched filled with rail dust, iron ore deposits.

I'm not seeing the link in any of your posts in this thread.

 

[Zooks527]

Not much prep needed on a brand new car.

Mine came through with wetsanding marks in the clearcoat on the roof and a 1/2" run in the paint on the driver's door. It also had a fair amount of weather marks from sitting in a lot at Flat Rock for a month waiting for a steering wheel.

 

[A7X]

I'm not seeing the link in any of your posts in this thread.

https://lsnautodetail.com/

 

[gixxersixxerman]

I coated my self with CQUK 3.0. I work from home and spent 2 weeks here and there polishing each panel and going over the whole car. Then coated the car, plastics, glass and leather. Let it sit for another week without touching it. First time I brought it out of the garage I was amazed at how great lightning blue is. It hasn’t been washed since then, November. Just a weekly wipe down if that. But I stay on top of it and working from home helps I guess since it’s not parked out side daily. I’ll never have a car not coated again.

 

[Labradog]

Struck me as needlessly spendy, which is why I didn't do it on delivery. Then I found out just how easily this paint picks up scratches (via the massive pollen dump going on for the last month) and bit the bullet.

A coating isn't going to do a damn thing to prevent scratches

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