B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[Cathul]

Did anyone measure the internal volume of the enclosure by chance?
Thinking about getting an enclosure, but need to know if my JL has enough volume to breath.

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[dbtgt]

I just finished installing the Pioneer TS-A250 D4 replacement subwoofer and I must say that it is a substantial improvement over the B&O POS sub. It was well worth the time and small expense required. Thanks to OP and everyone else who contributed to this thread - the info shared made the job much easier!

 

[Evolvd]

Did anyone measure the internal volume of the enclosure by chance?
Thinking about getting an enclosure, but need to know if my JL has enough volume to breath.

It’s plastic, fill it with water and measure it lol

 

[Cathul]

It’s plastic, fill it with water and measure it lol

If i had one I would do that.

 

[Hawkeye1]

I did the sub swap to the Pioneer today. Took me about 90 minutes from start to finish, and I worked steadily, not trying to get done quickly. The new sound is wonderful. Now on to the door speakers.

 

[Hawkeye1]

I did the sub swap to the Pioneer today. Took me about 90 minutes from start to finish, and I worked steadily, not trying to get done quickly. The new sound is wonderful. Now on to the door speakers.

Put Infinity Kappa 6.5 in door speakers in after I was done with the sub. It took me another four hours total. 3 hours and 15 minutes for the first one, and 45 minutes for the second one. It's amazing how much you learn when you do something the first time. Also, the various clips that hold the window switch piece and the door cards in place are much harder to pop the first time. It gets easier the next time. I know this because I took the driver's door apart, but was disappointed that I didn't get a mounting plate with the new speaker, so I wound up putting the door back together. While repacking the speakers to ship back, two templates fell out of the box. I said bad words, like 'golly, I wish I'd seen that earlier'...

In any case, I took the door apart a second time (much easier, again) and got the Kappa mounted. Nothing remarkable about the work, although I used a small amount of DynaMat between the speaker mounting plate and the door, to ensure it didn't rattle. I also used the template with short screws that allow you to mount the speaker with zero drilling. I also used an adapter harness for the speakers so none of the OEM wiring got cut.

It took too long, because I've never done it and was worried about damage. The results are excellent. The sub generates much lower frequencies than the stock unit, and can rattle the back end of the car if that's your thing. The Kappas in the doors are much brighter than the stock speakers they replaced so the sound stage becomes clearer. For both the sub and the Kappas, I found myself adjusting the equalizer closer to flat.

Overall, I spent less than $200, including harnesses, and about five hours of my time total. I can't think of another mod that brings that much improvement for $200.

 

[Matthewstorm]

Put Infinity Kappa 6.5 in door speakers in after I was done with the sub. It took me another four hours total. 3 hours and 15 minutes for the first one, and 45 minutes for the second one. It's amazing how much you learn when you do something the first time. Also, the various clips that hold the window switch piece and the door cards in place are much harder to pop the first time. It gets easier the next time. I know this because I took the driver's door apart, but was disappointed that I didn't get a mounting plate with the new speaker, so I wound up putting the door back together. While repacking the speakers to ship back, two templates fell out of the box. I said bad words, like 'golly, I wish I'd seen that earlier'...

In any case, I took the door apart a second time (much easier, again) and got the Kappa mounted. Nothing remarkable about the work, although I used a small amount of DynaMat between the speaker mounting plate and the door, to ensure it didn't rattle. I also used the template with short screws that allow you to mount the speaker with zero drilling. I also used an adapter harness for the speakers so none of the OEM wiring got cut.

It took too long, because I've never done it and was worried about damage. The results are excellent. The sub generates much lower frequencies than the stock unit, and can rattle the back end of the car if that's your thing. The Kappas in the doors are much brighter than the stock speakers they replaced so the sound stage becomes clearer. For both the sub and the Kappas, I found myself adjusting the equalizer closer to flat.

Overall, I spent less than $200, including harnesses, and about five hours of my time total. I can't think of another mod that brings that much improvement for $200.

Did you add a new Amp?

 

[Zelek]

Just bought this Pioneer sub. Going to tackle this one in my Mach 1. $60 from Walmart isn't bad at all.

 

[Firsttexan]

Just bought this Pioneer sub. Going to tackle this one in my Mach 1. $60 from Walmart isn't bad at all.

Best improvement you can make for the money. It would cost Ford about $5 bucks to improve it.

 

[Zelek]

Finished up my install. I managed to remove the OEM ring with a heat gun and trim removal tools starting at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions. Only one tab slightly chipped off. The rest are all perfect. No cracks in the ring. I used a Dremel to not only make v shaped holes but cut a roughly 2 inch gap for the OEM grill to sit flush on the holes. I de-pinned the connectors and plugged them in directly. I used about 7 oz of Poly-fill. OEM screws fit perfectly.

The bass sounds really good now. This is worth the $60. Thanks OP and thanks to the others who posted pictures in this thread. It all helped a lot.

 

[Cathul]

Did anyone measure the internal volume of the enclosure by chance?
Thinking about getting an enclosure, but need to know if my JL has enough volume to breath.

So noone measured the internal volume of the enclosure? :(

Don't want to spend 200,-- € on the sub enclosure only to realize it's a bit too small afterwards. :(

 

[Gregs24]

So noone measured the internal volume of the enclosure? :(

Don't want to spend 200,-- € on the sub enclosure only to realize it's a bit too small afterwards. :(

The only way would be to fill with water, and it has holes in it anyway! I can't see anybody taking it out to do that, and it would take a while to get all the water out afterwards. I would guess at 4 to 5 litres looking at it

 

[Cathul]

If it's only 4-5 liters, than its even smaller than the sub enclosure from the shaker system which had around 9 liters.
And that would be waaaaaay to small for any 10 inch subwoofer.

Anyway... if it has holes in it (other than for the wires) than it's not usable anyway, as any subwoofer enclosure needs to be well sealed (even ported enclosures except for the port obviously).

 

[Gregs24]

If it's only 4-5 liters, than its even smaller than the sub enclosure from the shaker system which had around 9 liters.
And that would be waaaaaay to small for any 10 inch subwoofer.

Anyway... if it has holes in it (other than for the wires) than it's not usable anyway, as any subwoofer enclosure needs to be well sealed (even ported enclosures except for the port obviously).

The wire holes are sealed. Just not sure anybody will want to put water in it!

It was a guess - it is probably similar size to the Shaker enclosure.

 

[Evolvd]

I had a shaker and the B&O. Other than the size of the speaker the boxes look the same size since they fill the same spot.

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