AUTONATION ONLINE PURCHASE QUESTION

[Cla007]

Hello,

Need some clarification. I went on the autonations web site and they have a California additional showing the price with the discounts of $41,298. Can anyone let me know if all the charges on the List are accurate? Do all ford dealers have these fees? Thank you for any help.

MSRP with accessories $49,504
MSRP $49,205
Appearance protection +$299
2020 ford mustang customer cash -$1,750
2020 ford mustang special package retail customer cash -$500
2020 ford select inventory retail customer cash -$750
AutoNation Savings -$5,206
AutoNation Price $41,298

ACTUAL COSTS
MSRP $49,205
AutoNation Savings -$5,206
AutoNation Price $43,999
Appearance Protection +$299
Vehicle Selling Price $44,298
Difference $44,298
Estimated Taxes +$2,756
Initial Registration Fee +$225
Law Enforcement Radio System +$1
Surchage State Transportation +$1
Title Service Fee +$4
Air Pollution Control +$1
Lemon Law +$2
Registration Fee +$33
Service Charge +$3
Title Fee +$77
Odometer Fee +$1
Plate Fee +$28
Transportation Disadvantaged +$2
State Transportation Fee +$21
Agency Fee +$5
Lien Fee +$2
Decal on Demand +$1
Security Fee +$1
Advanced Replacement +$3
Juvenile Justice +$1
Dealer Fee +$799

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[Cobra Jet]

I don’t know what some of those BS fees are in the second portion of your post, but that’s A LOT of BS fees.... and it seems some would only apply to certain vehicles possibly?

—-

Well with some dealers, the “discounts” is a lure, to get you interested and into the dealership.

What people don’t realize is, in most instances, the buyer does not or can’t qualify for every single discount listed - so that “low price” isn’t that low when the buyer doesn’t qualify for all of the discounts.

Also be aware that some Dealers will “stack” the discounts in their sales ads or window tags to make it look like they are reducing their price - but again, the buyer won’t qualify for all....

Best advice I can give is this:
1) If you have a trade in- do NOT reveal it until you are given the “best price” in writing.... then reveal that you have decided to trade in your vehicle, because at that point they need to further reduce their “best price” by your trade.

2) If you belong to or can join a Credit Union, do it. Most offer the best rates for new and used vehicles over most Banks (unless you can get 0% financing from the manufacturer).

3) Don’t fall for the dealer add-Ins such as extended warranties (if a Ford, go online to Flood Ford for best ESP pricing). Don’t get “GAP” insurance added by dealer, you can get this through your Insurance Co. for pennies compared to financing it into your loan. Don’t pay $1500-$2000 for Dealer added on BS such as “invisible”upholstery protectants that was never applied, pin-striping, decals, super duper hand wax that was never applied (yea, like that $299.00 “appearance protection”), maintenance plans,, etc....

4) If you have cash to buy, again get their best price and then spring it that you’ll be paying cash.

5) Shop around. Don’t let emotions buy the car, because what you think may be a good deal on emotions, you’ll find out afterwards that you could have saved another $1k-$3k.

Hit up this sub-forum and see what others are laying g for a similar vehcile:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/forums/order-price-tracking.73/

 

[Cla007]

I don’t know what some of those BS fees are in the second portion of your post, but that’s A LOT of BS fees.... and it seems some would only apply to certain vehicles possibly?

—-

Well with some dealers, the “discounts” is a lure, to get you interested and into the dealership.

What people don’t realize is, in most instances, the buyer does not or can’t qualify for every single discount listed - so that “low price” isn’t that low when the buyer doesn’t qualify for all of the discounts.

Also be aware that some Dealers will “stack” the discounts in their sales ads or window tags to make it look like they are reducing their price - but again, the buyer won’t qualify for all....

Best advice I can give is this:
1) If you have a trade in- do NOT reveal it until you are given the “best price” in writing.... then reveal that you have decided to trade in your vehicle, because at that point they need to further reduce their “best price” by your trade.

2) If you belong to or can join a Credit Union, do it. Most offer the best rates for new and used vehicles over most Banks (unless you can get 0% financing from the manufacturer).

3) Don’t fall for the dealer add-Ins such as extended warranties (if a Ford, go online to Flood Ford for best ESP pricing). Don’t get “GAP” insurance added by dealer, you can get this through your Insurance Co. for pennies compared to financing it into your loan. Don’t pay $1500-$2000 for Dealer added on BS such as “invisible”upholstery protectants that was never applied, pin-striping, decals, super duper hand wax that was never applied (yea, like that $299.00 “appearance protection”), maintenance plans,, etc....

4) If you have cash to buy, again get their best price and then spring it that you’ll be paying cash.

5) Shop around. Don’t let emotions buy the car, because what you think may be a good deal on emotions, you’ll find out afterwards that you could have saved another $1k-$3k.

Hit up this sub-forum and see what others are laying g for a similar vehcile:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/forums/order-price-tracking.73/

Hey Cobra Jet, Thanks for the reply and advice.
I didn't understand all those fees either. I have no trade in and I would finance. I will be visiting dealers soon. The thing with the extended warranty is that I Iive in Florida and by law I need to purchase from the dealer I already did the research. I have gone through Flood Ford and they don't offer it in Florida... bummer. Thank you again.

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

Hey Cobra Jet, Thanks for the reply and advice.
I didn't understand all those fees either. I have no trade in and I would finance. I will be visiting dealers soon. The thing with the extended warranty is that I Iive in Florida and by law I need to purchase from the dealer I already did the research. I have gone through Flood Ford and they don't offer it in Florida... bummer. Thank you again.

I am also from Florida and can tell you that most of the time you won’t qualify for a lot of the discounts and the price shown is just to get you in the door. Prices are always negotiable though and some dealers are willing to give you way better deals on cars than others. Again another thing you see in Florida is the add ons that dealers try to overcharge for.

 

[Cla007]

I am also from Florida and can tell you that most of the time you won’t qualify for a lot of the discounts and the price shown is just to get you in the door. Prices are always negotiable though and some dealers are willing to give you way better deals on cars than others. Again another thing you see in Florida is the add ons that dealers try to overcharge for.

I'm in South Florida and I'm sire I'll be going to a few dealers, but thank you.

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