Another oil question.

[Hoofer]

I have a 2021 mustang gt convertble, it has 5800 miles I have changed the oil every year 4 times so far , last season i drove about 800 miles! I live in Michigan so she snuggle under her car cover last spring when I went to the dealer they said that I really didn’t need to change oil so frequently. I do run the car once a month to keep fluid moving ,I run it for at least for 30 minutes the oil life says that I have 38 percent of oil life left , do I need to change it in the spring? I believe in good maintenance , and having the dealer do it for my records am ,I wasting my money ? Thank you for your time and help in advance!.

OP, just search this site for threads and posts where a person damaged their engine by changing oil too often.

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[robvas]

OP, just search this site for threads and posts where a person damaged their engine by changing oil too often.

Probably just as many threads as where someone damaged their engine by leaving 3,000 mile oil in it for two years

 

[sk47]

Hello; Maybe ten years ago I went to look at a 1965 Pontiac GTO which was for sale. It was a decent looking car and drove out OK. Guy was asking a high price for the condition. When we got to talking about the car, I found the oil had not been changed for over three years. Owners reasoning was he had only put 800 miles on it in that time. Two red flags, so I thanked him and walked away.

 

[Robottrainer]

Maybe I got one of the "good" engines , but...

- Once in storage, Skye's engine is not spun until I intend to drive the car again
- I do not pre-oil my engine when coming out of storage; I just start it
- Depending on the schedule, I can run oil which has sat in the pan for months without use
- Using the OLM as a reference as to when I change my oil, I do not pre-fill the filter

Each aspect of oil analysis, from shed materials to additives which are part of the oil's profile to measurements such as fuel, water and viscosity, all reflect a healthy engine operating under normal conditions. Blackstone is not detecting anything of concern.

We can quantifiably measure any number of things related to these topics. I feel if there was anything statistically significant, we'd see it? It would trend out and we'd all be doing it?

I do the same. 6000km a year. Store it in November until late March, change the oil just before storing it. I do pull the injector fuse, floor it and wing the engine over until I have oil pressure. Fuse goes back in and fire it up.

 

[K4fxd]

I do pull the injector fuse,

You don't need to pull the fuse. If you floor it, then crank, it will not start. It's flood clear mode. Injectors are shut off.

 

[robvas]

Can't pre-lube a Coyote like that anyway...

 

[robvas]

Hello; Maybe ten years ago I went to look at a 1965 Pontiac GTO which was for sale. It was a decent looking car and drove out OK. Guy was asking a high price for the condition. When we got to talking about the car, I found the oil had not been changed for over three years. Owners reasoning was he had only put 800 miles on it in that time. Two red flags, so I thanked him and walked away.

On that note....would you refuse to buy a leftover 2023 Mustang GT that's been sitting on a dealer lot for 600 days, 80 miles on it, still with the factory fill oil?

 

[ezracer]

On that note....would you refuse to buy a leftover 2023 Mustang GT that's been sitting on a dealer lot for 600 days, 80 miles on it, still with the factory fill oil?

Me?? I’d pass and look around more

 

[ezracer]

Per the OP’s question. My ‘15 GT is not a DD. It does not go into hibernation. It’s driven about twice a week weather permitting to keep the battery up and juices flowing. Annual mileage <4000mi. I change my oil ANNUALLY. Cheap insurance!!!

 

[sk47]

On that note....would you refuse to buy a leftover 2023 Mustang GT that's been sitting on a dealer lot for 600 days, 80 miles on it, still with the factory fill oil?

Hello; If the deal is correct a strong maybe. Would have to be a considerable discount. Bit such is not your point I am guessing. Some things make a new 2023 car which has sat a lot different from a 1965 car.
-There will be a factory powertrain warranty on the new car for five years /50,000 miles
-The seals and other such items will still be newish in the sense of not having a lot of heat cycles compared to an older used car. In an example I wrote of a guy who parked nice cars for years sometimes and i got running. One of the problems that cropped up after a few episodes was the seals began to leak oil. The AC lost all its refrigerant and quit working.

But the reason i passed on the GTO was the asking price. The way i look at a classic 1960's car is to expect to have to do lots of fixing. I do not count on the engine or other parts being good. Engine, transmission and other parts might need to be replaced or rebuilt as part of having an old car. I made him an offer after I understood the car was not maintained to my liking. He stuck to the top dollar price. I get it. The car was a classic and a popular model.

 

[Robottrainer]

You don't need to pull the fuse. If you floor it, then crank, it will not start. It's flood clear mode. Injectors are shut off.

Just a back up plan

 

[sk47]

You don't need to pull the fuse. If you floor it, then crank, it will not start. It's flood clear mode. Injectors are shut off.

Can't pre-lube a Coyote like that anyway...

Just a back up plan

Hello; This was discussed a lot in a different thread. One forum member described how he uses the technique with his Mustang. The possible fly in the ointment is the question of which vehicles have the feature programed into the cars computer. I tried to look it up for my old Sentra but could not find out for sure so have not tried it.
The member who has used the feature reported getting an oil pressure reading while doing this "flood clear mode". In that thread robas took exception declaring the starter cannot build full oil pressure. After some back and forth among several members he (robas) and maybe others stuck to the points that it is not worth doing and does not work.
I decided the logic of getting oil circulated thru the engine before ignition is a worthy thing to do after a car has sat a long time. This method or pulling a fuse seems a reasonable thing to do.

I get the counter point that millions of cars get started without any such precautions and live. I cannot prove pre-lubing does any good at all. But i do find the idea compelling. Bottom line being it does no harm I can think of. Same for pre- filling and oil filter which i have started doing the last decade or so. May not matter much but does not do any harm.

 

[Robottrainer]

Hello; This was discussed a lot in a different thread. One forum member described how he uses the technique with his Mustang. The possible fly in the ointment is the question of which vehicles have the feature programed into the cars computer. I tried to look it up for my old Sentra but could not find out for sure so have not tried it.
The member who has used the feature reported getting an oil pressure reading while doing this "flood clear mode". In that thread robas took exception declaring the starter cannot build full oil pressure. After some back and forth among several members he (robas) and maybe others stuck to the points that it is not worth doing and does not work.
I decided the logic of getting oil circulated thru the engine before ignition is a worthy thing to do after a car has sat a long time. This method or pulling a fuse seems a reasonable thing to do.

I get the counter point that millions of cars get started without any such precautions and live. I cannot prove pre-lubing does any good at all. But i do find the idea compelling. Bottom line being it does no harm I can think of. Same for pre- filling and oil filter which i have started doing the last decade or so. May not matter much but does not do any harm.

It does build pressure. The pump is turning. The oil is cold and thick. And the final proof...if you own a PP1 there is an electrical oil pressure gauge. After 15 to 30 seconds of cranking the pressure reads 20psi. This is enough to pressurize the lifters and get oil on the bearings.

The car is sitting for 3 months. The lifters will bleed down.

 

[robvas]

It does build pressure. The pump is turning. The oil is cold and thick. And the final proof...if you own a PP1 there is an electrical oil pressure gauge. After 15 to 30 seconds of cranking the pressure reads 20psi. This is enough to pressurize the lifters and get oil on the bearings.

Per Ford's engine documentation:

WARNING: Before installation, prime the engine by removing the oil pressure switch from the filter adapter. Install appropriate fitting and using a pre-lube tank to prime oiling system. Verify that the oil reaches the valve train, valve cover removal may be necessary. Oil at the valve train confirms the engine is primed.

Check oil level and fill as necessary.

 

[sk47]

Per Ford's engine documentation:

WARNING: Before installation, prime the engine by removing the oil pressure switch from the filter adapter. Install appropriate fitting and using a pre-lube tank to prime oiling system. Verify that the oil reaches the valve train, valve cover removal may be necessary. Oil at the valve train confirms the engine is primed.

Check oil level and fill as necessary.

Hello; This is a method used on new engines or rebuilt engines which have never been run has been my take. The new engines do not have a distributor so the old school methods do not work. I have looked at engine building videos during which such a device was used just prior to a start up.
During assembly of a new or rebuilt engine I imagine all use some form of assembly lube. I also assume most soak hydraulic lifters in a container of oil for a n hour or few during assembly.

For the sake of this discussion I suppose such a pressure vessel could be attached to an engine which has merely been sitting a few months. Likely would be a serious pain to do but the obvious benefit would be oil on all internal moving surfaces. Such a thing might be impractical on every single car but not a wrong thing to do.
The crux of this particular topic is we have two practical alternatives we can easily use. Any of us can pull a fuse. Those with the "food clear" programing built into the engine control can use that feature.

The back and forth with you (robvas) appears to me to be more that the notion is something you do not like. Let me lump in prefilling an oil filter before instillation which you have also rejected.

I get the point you are trying to make in that the last line in the above link is do not prime the engine by cranking it. Again this is for new or rebuilt engines is my take. The flaw in the argument is you contend we should just crank and start up an engine which has sat for four months without any pre oiling. How is this any different than pulling a fuse and cranking the engine over for a few seconds? The same oil pump spins and pushes oil in both cases.

Those reading this and the other thread can think about it and decide for themselves. I welcome any insight as to what the flaws are in my arguments. I do not want to hurt my engine.

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