An exercise in overthinking - Junits15's street build

[Duece McCracken]

You got some info on that? I’ve been looking into that but when I search “fuel delivery” all I get is heating oil and kerosene lmao

that would be really useful to have around

I responded to your PM on fost org.

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[junits15]

Lots of stuff installed:
J&M vertical links
Ford performance toe bearings
Steeda subframe braces
Steeda subframe lockouts
Steeda subframe alignment bushings

still to do:
BMR spherical LCA bearings
BMR diff bushing inserts

I stripped a subframe mounting hole ‍ thankfully the harbor freight near me had a $90 tap and die kit that had the m14x2.0 tap and die I needed. The hole was still salvageable, ran the tap through to clean it out and it was as good as new.

I was thankful because no auto stores anywhere near me had the appropriate helicoil kit. If I ever have to take that bolt out again there’s a high chance it will need a helicoil. Something for me to keep in mind.

The car drives great now but I am gonna get it aligned before fully judging it.

 

[Duece McCracken]

Lots of stuff installed:
J&M vertical links
Ford performance toe bearings
Steeda subframe braces
Steeda subframe lockouts
Steeda subframe alignment bushings

still to do:
BMR spherical LCA bearings
BMR diff bushing inserts

I stripped a subframe mounting hole ‍ thankfully the harbor freight near me had a $90 tap and die kit that had the m14x2.0 tap and die I needed. The hole was still salvageable, ran the tap through to clean it out and it was as good as new.

I was thankful because no auto stores anywhere near me had the appropriate helicoil kit. If I ever have to take that bolt out again there’s a high chance it will need a helicoil. Something for me to keep in mind.

The car drives great now but I am gonna get it aligned before fully judging it.

Bro, you gotta pull and paint those Steeda braces. The factory coating is pure shit. They are gonna rust up very soon with that being your daily.

 

[Buldawg76]

I almost cross threaded one of the subframe bolts installing the alignment bushing in mine as well but was able to remove the bushing and get the bolt to thread in straight and clean the threads in the hole up.

I am not sure a helicoil will be able to be used to repair the threads in the hole for the subframe bolts since it is part of the stamped steel floor pan/frame rail assy. You will have to drill out the damaged thread to install a helicoil and not sure there will be enough thickness of material left after drilling to tap new threads into for the helicoil to be installed. I may be wrong on that since i have never seen the area with the subframe completely removed but from what I have seen looking at mine when doing the bushing it does not look to be very thick of material that the bolts thread into there.

BD

 

[junits15]

Bro, you gotta pull and paint those Steeda braces. The factory coating is pure shit. They are gonna rust up very soon with that being your daily.

Yeah I figure they’re gonna rust, and I would deal with it when they do, but it’s probably better to prevent it in the first place.

not that preventing rust is even possible in the pickled New England winter lol

 

[junits15]

Tune update:

Thanks to some excellent help I have completed my 93 octane base tune. Here's some Virtual Dyno data showing a before/after. Don't pay too much attention to the absolute value just the delta between "baseline" and "final"

About a 20-30hp jump which is exactly what is to be expected from a 93 octane tune.

I'll be getting some e85 hopefully this week and start on that journey. The general thing I found on the 93 tune is that there really isn't a ton left on the table. You might find an extra degree or two around 3k RPM which is worth a certain amount of power but in the upper RPMs the stock borderline timing values are pretty much there right out of the box.

Power was found by adjusting how the timing is added and using other tricks. This car also has LTH which is worth some amount of horsepower.

Finishing the 93 tune was less about getting more power and more about learning how to tune so I'll be ready for e85. I need to buy a better barrel pump with a click-stop fill nozzle.

 

[Duece McCracken]

Tune update:

Thanks to some excellent help I have completed my 93 octane base tune. Here's some Virtual Dyno data showing a before/after. Don't pay too much attention to the absolute value just the delta between "baseline" and "final"

About a 20-30hp jump which is exactly what is to be expected from a 93 octane tune.

I'll be getting some e85 hopefully this week and start on that journey. The general thing I found on the 93 tune is that there really isn't a ton left on the table. You might find an extra degree or two around 3k RPM which is worth a certain amount of power but in the upper RPMs the stock borderline timing values are pretty much there right out of the box.

Power was found by adjusting how the timing is added and using other tricks. This car also has LTH which is worth some amount of horsepower.

Finishing the 93 tune was less about getting more power and more about learning how to tune so I'll be ready for e85. I need to buy a better barrel pump with a click-stop fill nozzle.

So you are getting drums of E85?

 

[junits15]

So you are getting drums of E85?

nah I'm just filling a 55 gallon barrel from the pump, its good enough for me and cheaper than the drum.

Doing my jerry can routine with 5 gallon metal fuel pails from uline.

 

[Duece McCracken]

nah I'm just filling a 55 gallon barrel from the pump, its good enough for me and cheaper than the drum.

Doing my jerry can routine with 5 gallon metal fuel pails from uline.

Oh, you filthy peasant.

 

[tdstuart]

I stripped a subframe mounting hole ‍ thankfully the harbor freight near me had a $90 tap and die kit that had the m14x2.0 tap and die I needed. The hole was still salvageable, ran the tap through to clean it out and it was as good as new.

Yep this is very common when removing the rear subframe and reinstalling. I think I damaged 2 or 3 threads putting the subframe back in. Had to use a tap and die kit and had to have the subframe pressed up to the body while I tapped the threads or else it wouldn't go in straight.

Was an absolute pain in the ass but I've taken the subframe out again since and it was totally fine on reinstall.

 

[junits15]

Oh, you filthy peasant.

And just like a peasant, I’m doing this because I am poor (stingy)

 

[junits15]

Yep this is very common when removing the rear subframe and reinstalling. I think I damaged 2 or 3 threads putting the subframe back in. Had to use a tap and die kit and had to have the subframe pressed up to the body while I tapped the threads or else it wouldn't go in straight.

Was an absolute pain in the ass but I've taken the subframe out again since and it was totally fine on reinstall.

Good to know, mine will probably come out again without incident. Though I’m gonna be ready with a helicoil just in case.

 

[engineermike]

@junits15 I've found some power by modifying the intake OP cam timing. Limit the IVO retarding to about -15 rather than the stock -24.

 

[wingnutt]

 

[junits15]

@junits15 I've found some power by modifying the intake OP cam timing. Limit the IVO retarding to about -15 rather than the stock -24.

I think you mentioned this before in this thread and I modeled my cam timing after what you said. It feels good, I should dyno it to see how it is

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