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Alignment Help after Installing Steeda Progressive Springs

Jlfierros

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Hello everyone,

I have a series of questions regarding alignment on my 2015 v6 mustang after Installing the steeda progressive springs.
Questions:
1. What specs should my car be dialed into, the stock number or the Performance Pack numbers after Installing the Steeda progressive springs ?

2. Would it be correct to use the 2014 specs on a 2015 mustang? Took my car to a shop, and they stated that the specs should be the same, now under my rear tires slanted in from the top.

Thanks for the help planning to take my car to America's tires warehouse for the alignment, hoping the have a state of the art system that is up to date with the specs.
Will post my result, once I get them
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scott_0

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find a new shop if theyre trying to use 2014 specs, Im sure more knowledgeable members will pop in, but yes, you could use PP specs
 

jbailer

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If they don't even have specs for the S550 yet, I certainly wouldn't have them doing my alignment. They probably have outdated equipment too. Plus they probably have no clue how to adjust camber in the rear. The specs are really going to depend on what you want out of the car but yes, I would work around the PP specs.
 

T-S550-X

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Your camber adjustments will be limited unless you have camber bolts or camber/caster plates. According to Steeda, you "should" be able to get your alignment without those items I listed above. I know a lot of members, myself included that ended up getting the above listed items in order to dial the suspension in.
 

Niz55

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Pp specs are just fine. Your front should be within spec at around -1.5 -1.6 and the rear is fully adjustable.
 

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Jlfierros

Jlfierros

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Well guys, just got back from the Alignment shop and like unsuspected the rear alignment was off and the front was not bad. I do have one problem, the tech did not know how to fully correct the camber in the back. I am currently at -2.2 and -2.4 .
At this point I don't know what to do, I noticed a steeda rear camber kit for 130, if if I am going to need it.
 

jbailer

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Seems not many know how to adjust the rear camber. When I took my car for alignment, I brought this with it because the previous time they didn't do it. You don't really need the Steeda rear camber adjustment part but having something like this Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms make it very nice to dial in the exact camber you want on both sides. The problem with the stock adjustment is it's kind of a gamble. They can see where it is, then lift it loosen it back up adjust it with a guess, tighten it back down, lower it and check it again. Then keep repeating until correct. Most shops are paid a certain amount for an alignment and won't do all that. With the part mentioned they can just dial it in!



Ooops meant to put this in the post too. This is the stock adjustment:
rear_camber.webp
 
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Jlfierros

Jlfierros

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Thank you for the information, with your experience do you think that I will be able to get near the -1.5 camber mark on the rear with out purchasing the steeda arm or adjustment kit ?

I will be contacting another shop tomorrow and see if they can adjust the camber for me, following the procedure provided

Seems not many know how to adjust the rear camber. When I took my car for alignment, I brought this with it because the previous time they didn't do it. You don't really need the Steeda rear camber adjustment part but having something like this Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms make it very nice to dial in the exact camber you want on both sides. The problem with the stock adjustment is it's kind of a gamble. They can see where it is, then lift it loosen it back up adjust it with a guess, tighten it back down, lower it and check it again. Then keep repeating until correct. Most shops are paid a certain amount for an alignment and won't do all that. With the part mentioned they can just dial it in!



Ooops meant to put this in the post too. This is the stock adjustment:
 

jbailer

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Thank you for the information, with your experience do you think that I will be able to get near the -1.5 camber mark on the rear with out purchasing the steeda arm or adjustment kit ?

I will be contacting another shop tomorrow and see if they can adjust the camber for me, following the procedure provided

Yes you can as long as the shop is willing to put in the time. That's the big question. -1.5 is a good target too. I'm at -2.0 and for the longest time, I couldn't see any additional tire wear but working on my car this weekend, I could see the insides wearing out.
 

jc1804

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well I just got back from the dealer & they did an alignment. ford does have a procedure in place for lowering springs if camber doesnt have enough adjustment. it involves
this is right off my invoice "ADDITIONAL FOR CAMBER ADJUSTMENT... necessary to elongate holes for strut to knuckle bolts and install new service bolts"
 

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jbailer

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well I just got back from the dealer & they did an alignment. ford does have a procedure in place for lowering springs if camber doesnt have enough adjustment. it involves
this is right off my invoice "ADDITIONAL FOR CAMBER ADJUSTMENT... necessary to elongate holes for strut to knuckle bolts and install new service bolts"
That is the front, not the rear. Here is the procedure for the rear adjustment. It's Ford's procedure in the Helm manual. They should be able to adjust the rear just fine.

*edit, I just removed the picture of the procedure, it's the same one I posted above.
 

wildcatgoal

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You do not need any new parts in the rear for your alignment. You did not need to slot your strut (which is what Ford was saying was their "procedure") either. If you did, that's not going to be the end of the world, it's an fine solution. They should focus on toe up front. In the rear, there is a pretty generous range of adjustment already. It takes an alignment shop knowing how to do it (since the bolt to accomplish this is not easily reached with weight and wheel on the car. Follow the upper camber arm to its inward most mounting point. That bolt is where rear camber can be adjusted. Effectively, you loosen the bolt, move the wheel to where you want, and re-tighten the bolt.

It continues to amaze me how people have problems getting alignments with this car. It's probably because most alignment shops are used to doing front-wheel alignments. If you are getting camber adjusted, it is best to ask people in your area where they go before committing to dropping the car and floundering to find a good alignment (or thinking you got one and, surprise, your tires are worn to the belts in 5K miles).
 

LG23

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I had steeda progressive springs 1 inch drop, subframe bushings, and the alignment kit installed. Brought it in to the dealership and they told me there isn't much to align at all and that the toe is straight. I was very surprised they didn't just slightly adjust it and charge me $100 :eek:
 
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Jlfierros

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Hello guys, would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions. I'm happy that I didn't need to purchase anymore parts to add insult to injury.

Just got my car back from the Alignment shop and they took care on me. Got my car aligned with no problem.
Here is my alignment sheet:
[imglink]
1489540034214979311811.webp
[/imglink
 
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jbailer

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Hello guys, would like to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions. I'm happy that I didn't need to purchase anymore parts to add insult to injury.

Just got my car back from the Alignment shop and they took care on me. Got my car aligned with no problem.
Here is my alignment sheet:
That's fantastic, happy you got it taken care of.
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