Alignment after installing new springs?

[BmacIL]

Actually that does not look good. Toe should be 0.0 up front. And I would say also 0.0 in the rear, but if you want closer to factory spec in rear that's fine.

But why so much toe out in the front? Really should be 0.0.

Camber should be same side-to-side. The actual amount doesn't mean a whole lot as long as side-to-side is within 0.2 degrees IMO. I would want closer to 0 camber in rear and closer to -2.0 in front. I know stock can't get 2.0, but if you lower you get more than spec so anything closer to that is fine as long as it is the same side-to-side.

0 rear camber would be borderline dangerous to drive in anything but a straight line. You could get some nasty snap oversteer. It's an IRS, so as the car rolls, the outside tire camber goes more positive. You want to set static camber such that the tire gets its max contact patch during cornering. This is different for every car due to the geometry of the suspension and its associated camber gain through the wheel travel. - 2.0 in the front is also too much for any street car, particularly with a strut suspension. - 1.0-1.5 is desirable here. More than this will not gain you anything unless you're only using for road course track use, and will just wear the insides of the tires more. Also, positive toe values = toe in.

Norm,
It's been my experience that any positive front toe from zero does a good deal to calm the initial response to steering input. That will also vary car to car depending on the steering ratio, suspension stiffness and geometric trail from the suspension design/wheel offset. You do make a good point about bushing compliance, though.

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[5.0_MLC]

I was told mine was still under the factory specs. I'm attaching the print out, I have no clue what the numbers mean even after reading this whole thread. your comments are welcome, this is my daily driving car already has 4300 miles.

 

[NewSchool]

I was told mine was still under the factory specs. I'm attaching the print out, I have no clue what the numbers mean even after reading this whole thread. your comments are welcome, this is my daily driving car already has 4300 miles.

Yours looks very close to mine. Look at my print out earlier in this thread. I'm in the same boat as you, I'm still trying to understand but it's starting to make a little sense. I think for everyday drivers like us our setup is OK, I HOPE!

My goal is a stable car when driven aggressively every once in a while and no uneven tire wear.

So Norm, BmacMI,

In regards to mine and Denys Printout. Are we looking good for everyday street driving and some aggressive corner carving every once in a while. Or should we change something with our setups.

Sorry, I'm just trying to make some sense out of all this in my Head. :headbonk:

 

[BmacIL]

From my perspective, you're good to go.

 

[Khyber]

I got mine the other day done. Only the toe was out on front and back. The camber in front was barely out but still in green and wasn't worth drilling the struts 1mm bigger to get it closer. I mean 1mm lol so it just stayed where it was.

Feels no different since I lowered it.

 

[Norm Peterson]

A silly millimeter might not sound like much, but 1 mm is significant when the strut to knuckle attachment holes are less than 3" apart . . . I'm guessing at least half a degree of camber.


Norm

 

[Khyber]

it's not much at all to even both with. not even worth doing when after lowering, it it's still in the ford's tolerance range and hasn't changed the way it drives because it's so minimal. if the drop was lower it would be different of course.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Half a degree of camber is a lot - unless you're satisfied with production tolerances that are even sloppier (so the mfr can say "they're in range" and not have to do anything about it).


Norm

 

[Vile_the_Bastage]

Considering doing this sometime this year. However, I'm a bit worried about destroying the shocks prematurely. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket shocks to pair with the Steeda or Eiback kits?

 

[Khyber]

Half a degree of camber is a lot - unless you're satisfied with production tolerances that are even sloppier (so the mfr can say "they're in range" and not have to do anything about it).


Norm

we'll just have to disagree. you'll never notice any difference

 

[dwaleke]

we'll just have to disagree. you'll never notice any difference

Half degree off side-to-side is VERY easy to notice. Car will steer/pull in one direction (the direction of the side with less camber IIRC).

 

[Khyber]

Well it's not pulling at all. Drives centered.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I was told mine was still under the factory specs. I'm attaching the print out, I have no clue what the numbers mean even after reading this whole thread. your comments are welcome, this is my daily driving car already has 4300 miles.

You need to compare your car's measurements against the 2015 specs, not the 2012 - 2014 Mustang specs that your shop used for your printout. Notice that your sheet does not even contain specified ranges for either rear camber or rear toe.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

Well it's not pulling at all. Drives centered.

As long as your car's cross-camber numbers (difference between right and left side cambers on each axle) aren't too much, it won't pull or drive "un-centered".

But since you now have an alignment that's at least moderately cornering-oriented (as compared to settings consistent with the average driver's mild to maybe moderate daily driving), the evenness of your tire wear might not be all it could be. IOW, the flip side of getting a cornering performance alignment for better cornering is you have to drive the corners with a bit more, ummm, enthusiasm than before. Even if you never really intended to end up with that kind of performance alignment.


Norm

 

[chadmclark]

Help, not sure how these numbers look ...

Hey guys. Just put the Eibach Pro on my 15 GT. First, do the attached after numbers look good? I ask because it feels fine, but sometimes when I nail it, it seems to ever so slightly feel like it has a momentary pull to the left. Not bad enough I can't hold the wheel with even one finger ;)

It's really tiny, and, seems more obvious if I'm in D vs S when flooring it, from a roll. I just don't wanna keep dishing out coin if these look acceptable. Otherwise feels great. Thanks all!!

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