Air conditioning died suddenly today...help!

[Emt1581]

The blend door actuators are what they were talking about I think. It’s up under the dash. They are small electric stepper motors or vacuum actuators. I’ve never had an S550 dash apart, so I’m not sure where they are exactly. Try this thread. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...re-all-three-blend-door-actuators-are.113633/

You could still have an electronic issue. It would be really helpful to get a look at the climate control PIDs to get a better idea whats going on.

Saw a youtube vid....looks like it's a little pack near the gas pedal right where the plastic ends. I'll take a look at it when I get a chance but I'm not sure how to manually test it or how to tell if it's functioning.

I'll take a look at the link you shared in a bit.

Thanks

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[Emt1581]

Took a pic of the blend module....not sure if anything can be seen (timing/etc.) looking at it but here it is....

If nothing can be seen, thoughts on how to test it? Right now, this is the ONLY thing I can think of that may be stuck/broke. Nothing else makes sense.

Thanks!

 

[Emt1581]

Another update....

I looked at and tested the actuator (drivers).... also called the tech. He said those actuators are for the blower and interior/exterior air NOT the cold. He said the cold air actuator is on the box and I need to remove the dash to get to it. He also said the over charging of the refrigerant line is a concern because it may indicate a problem with the....

A/C Cycling Switch

Blocked Accumulator, Dryer, Evaporator

He finished up with the A/C being one of the most expensive systems to work on/repair due to how complex they are.

 

[GT Pony]

Just tested the refrigerant line....gauge showed it was slightly over pressured. But has pressure and freon in it....so does that eliminate the refrigerant/line and eval coil as an issue or no?

What can I check next?

Thanks!

If the system is charged, and the compressor runs, then I'd think some of the exposed A/C line in the engine compartment would feel cold after it ran for awhile regardless of what's going on with the blending door, etc behind the dash. Unless there is a complete blockage of Freon flow in the system somewhere.

 

[Kazman]

Took a pic of the blend module....not sure if anything can be seen (timing/etc.) looking at it but here it is....

If nothing can be seen, thoughts on how to test it? Right now, this is the ONLY thing I can think of that may be stuck/broke. Nothing else makes sense.

Thanks!

We are battling a similar issue with our 2010 GT500 . Started 2 or 3 summers ago . AC was running perfectly . We stopped for Gas , got back into the car , no more AC . We figured seeing as the car was 8 years old or so , get the freon recharged . The person we took it too checked it but there was nothing wrong with it . Added some more regardless to bring the pressure back up . 2 days later , happened again . It seems to be when the controls heat up , the AC dies . We also had the resistor bank changed out , no difference , next thing is the complete center consul control unit which is kinda $$$

 

[Garfy]

Another update....

I looked at and tested the actuator (drivers).... also called the tech. He said those actuators are for the blower and interior/exterior air NOT the cold. He said the cold air actuator is on the box and I need to remove the dash to get to it. He also said the over charging of the refrigerant line is a concern because it may indicate a problem with the....

A/C Cycling Switch

Blocked Accumulator, Dryer, Evaporator

He finished up with the A/C being one of the most expensive systems to work on/repair due to how complex they are.

First of all, it's refrigerant, not freon. Freon refers to the old R-12 refrigerant which they stopped installing in cars in 1993; 1994 and up all used R-134a until the new R1234yf crap came out a few years ago.

Anyway, if you can locate the 2 refrigerant lines going through the firewall next to the battery, you'll see one skinny line and one fat line (both aluminum). With the A/C on and the compressor turning, touch the skinny one; it should be relatively hot; then touch the fat one; it should be cold. If it's not cold, take a look at what your pressure readings are on the manifold gauge set you have connected. The high side should be around 200 psi or higher if it's fully charged, the low side should be around 30-40 psi. If you have correct pressures and the lines do feel like described above but you have no cold air coming out, then you have an issue under the dash, not a refrigerant system problem.

And yes, it's expensive to repair most newer A/C systems if you have to go to the evaporator case because most cars require removal of the complete dash assembly to get to it. Honda is the only one I know (not sure about 2018 and up) where you don't have to remove the dash to access the evaporator core; of course the heater core is the same as every other car; pull the entire dash out.

 

[Whitedevil95]

Ever get this fixed? What ended up being the culprit?

 

[Emt1581]

Ever get this fixed? What ended up being the culprit?

Shot you everything in a PM.

 

[K4fxd]

Shot you everything in a PM.

Can you share with the rest of us?

 

[Emt1581]

Can you share with the rest of us?

It was the evap core I believe. Should have cost me a LOT of money. However, my local dealership totally screwed up on all aspects of it. So after a few MONTHS of frustration it only cost me like $15 AND Ford Corporate apologized to me profusely and then gave me a 3 year extended warranty/service plan for free. So powertrain, oil changes, etc.....free for the next 3 years. That means my car will be 8 years old by the time the warranty runs out. lol

The real kicker was when I gave the dealer a negative review online and the VICE PRESIDENT of that location called me up and asked what was wrong.....I explained they completely dropped the ball. "Oh ok"..... then he asked how the A/C was working......"No clue, you took so long to fix it it's cold out! Call me back in the Spring". He didn't know what to say after that.

I can't suggest enough that you go through Ford CORPORATE for this issue!!! They will take care of you. A dealer will screw you over completely!!! What you need to do is call corporate and let them know of the issue (this gives you a rep's name/number/email) then you take it to the dealer to fix the problem and TELL THEM Ford Corporate is involved. Corporate will tell you the same thing I am. Then once the dealer evals the problem they'll let corporate know and then then corporate will decide whether to cover you or not or partially. In my case, my bumper to bumper was out for like a year or year and a half but this is essentially a factory defect so that's probably why they covered it. The 3 year warranty was just because the dealer was so dysfunctional.

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