Advice

[RoyalGuard]

Looking at a cheaper supercharger, leads me down the centrifugal route, I really do like them too!

Whats a reliable BHP at the flywheel which won't require upgrade internal parts?

Difference between Paxton, Vortech & Procharger?

What's the best tune to go with?

What else needs upgrading?

Will this stuff fit my RHD car?

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[ptoemmes]

It's been pretty well established in this forum that any of the three FI kits you have mentioned are safe on an otherwise stock S550 with the supplied canned tune - and even a tweaked custom tune.

But you are in the UK so I dunno about petrol quality as most canned tunes are, I think, setup for 91 octane US.

A cat back will not affect the tune. Headers probably will.

Some CAI's will and, from what I have seen, those that use the stock airbox can handle putting in a higher flow stock-sized filter - again probably does not affect the stock tune.

Do you plan to install it yourself (all quite do-able)?

Are you purchasing through a UK supplier? If so then perhaps they have the specifics about the RHD and "local" tune.

But perhaps, sponsor-suppliers on this side of the pond can ship to you and provide same/similar advice. I simply dunno.

As far as which kit, I suppose it depends on where you want to go after the base setup or even if you want to go beyond the base. All of them have room to grow from the base setup with, for example, bigger injectors, CAIs, smaller pulley's which will require custom tuning and, from what I read, can easily push the power up to and beyond the "safe" limits of the stock engine internals.

I personally am leaning towards the base Procharger HO kit with P1SC and helical gears, but am also waiting to see what the new Edelbrock E-Force roots SC brings to the table for the S550.

Best of luck. I'm sure you will get many more - and more detailed - responses.

Pete

PS
Now that I think about petrol in the UK I assume it's all based on Research Octane Number (RON), but to tell you the truth I dunno

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

 

[RoyalGuard]

Thanks Pete! Great Response!

I don't want to push the engine as it will be a daily & weekend warrior, I was thinking 600BHP at the Flywheel & 7000RPM, nothing huge! Hopefully that would be perfectly fine on a stock internal engine (not having to upgrade oil pump gears etc),

Yes it's 99RON, but I know the Stoich Rating of the fuel, I was told that a custom tuned SC requires a new table to modify than a naturally aspirated car which most people won't be able to do?

I was thinking about going for a Lund Tune & N Gauge with beefcake, not sure yet though,

As for the 3 SCs I don't really know what the differences are, however I was leaning towards the ProCharger Base Kit, what boost etc would I start needing to upgrade fuel injectors & intercoolers?

 

[ptoemmes]

Terry will give you a good walkthrough of which SC fits your needs and budget.

At least the UK doesn't use Euros

I can't imagine RHD is going to be an issue with either one. None of the parts go anywhere near the steering assemblies.

If he's not racing today he's probably prepping for the Stupor Bowl.

Pete

 

[emh87]

All the centrifugal kits will be just fine on the stock block, even with turning up the boost a little. I personally went with a D1SC Procharger after lots of research, and I also liked the way it looked in the engine bay compared to the other kits. Like ptoemmes said, talk to Terry from Beefcake racing, he will help you out with everything.

 

[RoyalGuard]

Thanks Guys!

I have messaged Terry on Facebook

What's the stock internals good for? Without upgrade?

 

[Roh92cp]

I'm a twin screw positive displacement power lover, and for an awesome street warrior the Whipple or Kenne bell are tops for sure. I chose Whipple for its heavily tested and tried and true Whipple tune with industry leading power and safety features, really cutting edge stuff. The best part is the end user needs to really know nothing, and do nothing as far as tuning. Just instal the kit, which is not hard to do yourself and then flash the tune (with flare tool) or order the Whipple tune. My recommendation is the flare tool upgrade for $200 and comes with a boat load of cutting edge very easy features for safety and engine durability. The Whipple is a bolt on approx (650 whp kit) which is very acceptable for completely stock engine configuration with stock or cat back exhaust. Wish you the best on your forced induction Euro Mustang, and as a proud American I'm really glad to see the Our Mustang finally enjoyed in other parts of the world.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42799

 

[zaquhree]

I have ran from 10.7-11.0 in my Paxton off the shelf kit with the 3.8" pulley. MPH is always 129-133. Can't go wrong with Paxton...Procharger seems to have a better fit and finish imho.

 

[RoyalGuard]

I was probably leaning towards a ProCharger however without knowing the differences im still not sure!

 

[beefcake]

from one of my other threads

As Vortech and Paxtons largest auto dealer in the world.. let me chime in!! (we do a lot of prochargers too btw)



Our specialty really is in the Centri supercharger kits.

I'll play devils advocate as best as I can on both setups.

Things you need to look at, vortech and paxton are essentially the same setup, just different head units.

On entry level pricing, on the paxton side, you get a larger head unit. More growing potential for the same money. Also, you'll get about the same power out of each kit but with less boost on the paxton. Most of our 2015 cars we have been dropping one pulley size to a 3.6". The stronger engines in the 15's have been doing well with this.

The paxton / vortech use the oem crank pulley which we are a big fan of. Always have been. IMO you see no extra stress on the crank with the stock tensioner being used.

The standard kit has a 6 rib setup, but all the setups are upgradeable to 8 rib down the road.

Both standard kits are SL (self lubricated), and need to have the oil changed every 5000 or so miles.

You have the option do upgrade the head unit to an oil fed hd blower on any of the kits as well, you also have the option to upgrade to a "competition" kit out of the gate which would give you the hd oil fed head unit, along with the 8 rib upgrade from the start.

The standard intercooler on the paxton / vortech is "rated" for about 900 or so hp. We ran our 2011 car with the standard intercooler to about 1073 wheel, and 8.7s at full weight.

One customer went 8.8's on the standard 2200 SL head unit with stage 1 e85 fuel system, aluminator, high grip pulley, and some weight reduction on a 2011-2014 car. So lots of potential for not alot of $$. I would put the 2200 on the level of a stage 2 procharger with a d1 upgrade. Comparable, your about $1300 less for the 2200 on our custom package setups.

Install is a little more time consuming, but not a lot, probably 1-2 more hours than the procharger kit. But either kit will install fairly easy. No cutting of the bumper is needed with either kit.

The vortech / paxton head units tend to run a little lower iats from what we have seen. But both kits do pretty good, especially with the stage 2 procharger intercooler.

Common misconception, "you have to pull the head unit to change the pulley or belt".
Not true, with a lift, we can change a belt in about 10-12 minutes. At the track, on the grount, we can do it in about 15-20 minutes.

Common misconception - You go through alot of belts - Again, not true. In over 5 years on our 2011 car , we have never thrown a belt, probably somewhere in the 400-500 pass range, we have never thrown a belt on one of these cars. We actually see quite a bit more pd setups tossing belts at really high hp levels. Even on 10 rib pd setups.

$$ wise, I do believe the 2200 is the undisputed winner bang for the buck / growing potential kit. Doesn't mean it's the perfect kit for everyone, but it is our go to kit!

On the procharger side of things. For 2015 they added a direct drive setup, which i have been pushing for since 2011. again, big fan of that setup, and we've had guys go 8's on the 6 rib setups, and i think for any stock engine car, you'll be able to put more hp than the engine could take on the 6 rib setup.

To go 8 rib plus - you have to go to the dedicated setup. Some like this, some don't. Basically you add an extra pulley on the front of the crank. we have seen a few cranks snap on procharged cars. Only 3 over 5 years, and all 3 were in that 1000 wheel mark. So i don't think it's something for the average guy to be concerned about.

You also have the ability to go larger than 8 rib, with Prochargers setup. And the step ratios are pretty nice on the procharger head units.

One benefit to the dedicated drive setup, is that you can change belts and pullies in about 5 minutes with or without a lift. That is kind of nice.

Again, on either setup, if you install everything and line up correctly, you should not have issues with belts on either setup.

Paxton / Vortech kits come "how they come", meaning, the 2200 comes with a 3.8 pulley and if you want to change boost you have to buy another pulley. If you want to buy a different bov, you have to buy a different bov.

Procharger has the ability to customize more out of the box. You can pick your choice of the normal loud gear or the quiet gear for a $100 upgrade. You can also upgrade your BOV to the big red out of the gate, and get credit for the standard bov. Again, nice to be able to customize.

At the end of the day, both kits are very nice.

We have done in the neighborhood of 500-600 centri packages over the last 6 years. Self installs, in house installs, in house tuning with lund, remote tuning with lund, customers having packages installed and tuned other places. Any combo you want, we can do.

No one comes anywhere close to what we do with centris on the coyote cars, and were always here to help.

Hopefully this is objective enough on both kits and lends some insight to you guys as far as what you want out of your blower.

Beef
513-478-1965

8am to 10pm seven days a week!!!!

How we roll

 

[Z_Rocks]

from one of my other threads

Man, that was the best and most informative post I have read for a long time.

Question: Which of the 3 produces the most low end TQ for street driving?

 

[beefcake]

Man, that was the best and most informative post I have read for a long time.

Question: Which of the 3 produces the most low end TQ for street driving?

any will be fine

especially once you start pullying down some

 

[zaquhree]

Terry is the man.

I can tell you this...
I have driven turbo V8's, TVS V8's, and Centri V8's...

The best is subjective...

My favorite combo so far is this Paxton and my 2015...it makes gobs of torque thanks to Lund from 4500-7500 and feels akin to warp speed as it just doesn't stop pulling until you shift...traction is good...hell I ran 10.7@130 out of the box...no mods besides blower/tune/Corsa catback/18" NT555r

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