Adjustable Caster Cambers for GT350

[Grey Ghost 16]

Hello all! Need your experience with caster camber plates.
My GT350 does not have adjustable caster camber plates. I track it as a hobby (seldom), therefore don't need anything professional level. So, I'm looking at Shelby Performance, Cortex , or Steeda caster camber plates. In the upgrade, I will probably get the Steeda dual rate springs. Nonetheless, would like everyone's thoughts/experience with any of the caster camber plates mentioned above. Thank you for your time and looking forward to your thoughts and opinions

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[galaxy]

Steeda is the gold standard, IMO. Straight forward, easy install, simple, reliable adjustments (no caster), etc, etc, etc.

Vorshalg is pure art, not car parts. No personal experience, but have heard the design (which is the best you can get) actually contributes to NVH. I’m of the opinion the car is set up great with plenty of caster stock, thus no need to really mess with caster unless you’re a pro and can really feel what you’re doing with it. I don’t have that ability.

If you can find a smokin deal on a set of the factory Ford ones, that’s another solid option as well, probably on par with the Steeda.

Search on here also; there’s some good reading through previous discussions on the topic.

 

[WItoTX]

For what your looking to do, you can't really go wrong with any of them. I'd default to cortex, or even mmr.

Keep in mind if you want to go beyond say 2.4 or so, you'll need to drill the tower holes. Steeda makes a real nice hole saw for that. Then just some touch up paint and it looks factory.

 

[tj@steeda]

Manny — our camber plates have been track-tested, drag strip-proven, and proven reliable on the street. Choosing Steeda won’t disappoint. If you’d like any assistance, feel free to reach out at [email protected].

We’re honored to be recognized as the gold standard!

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-camber-plates-15-16-all-555-8139.html

 

[Dana Pants]

Another member happily using Steeda plates. For maximum send, use the hole saw to open up the hole in the unibody.

 

[GTP]

Here is some info that should be more widely distributed.

Most camber plates don't have enough adjustment for sufficient negative camber on track with 200tw, or lower, track tires. Most brands really have enough adjustment to achieve the OEM angle when people put in lowering springs.

Ask me how I know.

If you track maybe just once a year then these plates will help reduce tire wear.

BUT if you track regularly, with wide tires, 200 or 100tw tires, and you check tire pressures and temperatures at the track, then you need plates that go up to -4° camber.

Only Steeda and Vorschlag are capable of this to the best of my knowledge.

Every tenth inch longer slot is another tenth inch negative camber.

I am currently in the process of swapping my plates to Steeda, and I even slotted my upper strut hole for an extra -1°!

 

[svttim]

Any of then Are good but I chose Vorschlag because they are marked

 

[mavisky]

I was able to achieve -3.2 on my previous setup of Steeda plates, a drilled top hole, and their Steeda dual rate springs. I could have had more, but that's what I settled on at the time. Sold them off when I went coilovers and the new owner is still using them trouble free.

To be clear though they are a camber plate only and do not have any built in caster adjustment if adding caster is a concern of yours.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

Steeda is the gold standard, IMO. Straight forward, easy install, simple, reliable adjustments (no caster), etc, etc, etc.

Vorshalg is pure art, not car parts. No personal experience, but have heard the design (which is the best you can get) actually contributes to NVH. I’m of the opinion the car is set up great with plenty of caster stock, thus no need to really mess with caster unless you’re a pro and can really feel what you’re doing with it. I don’t have that ability.

If you can find a smokin deal on a set of the factory Ford ones, that’s another solid option as well, probably on par with the Steeda.

Search on here also; there’s some good reading through previous discussions on the topic.

If anything Vorshlag is the gold standard. I have Steeda and the Vorshlag plates do not contribute more to NVH than any of the other plates. Vorshlag plates are extremely well built and proven.

I'm at -3.5 on Steeda plates with an opened up strut tower hole and factory strut to spindle bolts.

 

[JAJ]

If anything Vorshlag is the gold standard. I have Steeda and the Vorshlag plates do not contribute more to NVH than any of the other plates. Vorshlag plates are extremely well built and proven.

I'm at -3.5 on Steeda plates with an opened up strut tower hole and factory strut to spindle bolts.

I had the Vorshlag plates on my 2016 GT350 and I took them off and replaced them with Steeda. The Vorshlag plates are works of art, a great product, and they don't produce noise at all. However, they are metal-to-metal throughout and in my experience that linkage brings road noise from the front wheels up into the chassis. I had the Steeda rear subframe braces on and I took them off for the same reason.

What I can't fathom in this thread is all the talk about -3.5 and -4.0 front camber settings. Now, admittedly, those numbers are quoted by folks with GTPP and M1 cars. I've done 50 track days and a pile of other events on my 2016 GT350 and I run settings that are close to the recommended GT350R camber and toe settings: -2.2 degrees with 0 toe up front and -1.7 degrees with 0.3 degrees toe-in in the rear. I've run Michelin, Pirelli and Goodyear r-comp tires - all on OEM 19x11 GT350 alloy rims - and they've all worn just fine and I've checked tread temps with a needle thermometer and the temps were within 10 degrees or so across the face of the tread. It is indeed a mystery.

 

[mavisky]

I had the Vorshlag plates on my 2016 GT350 and I took them off and replaced them with Steeda. The Vorshlag plates are works of art, a great product, and they don't produce noise at all. However, they are metal-to-metal throughout and in my experience that linkage brings road noise from the front wheels up into the chassis. I had the Steeda rear subframe braces on and I took them off for the same reason.

What I can't fathom in this thread is all the talk about -3.5 and -4.0 front camber settings. Now, admittedly, those numbers are quoted by folks with GTPP and M1 cars. I've done 50 track days and a pile of other events on my 2016 GT350 and I run settings that are close to the recommended GT350R camber and toe settings: -2.2 degrees with 0 toe up front and -1.7 degrees with 0.3 degrees toe-in in the rear. I've run Michelin, Pirelli and Goodyear r-comp tires - all on OEM 19x11 GT350 alloy rims - and they've all worn just fine and I've checked tread temps with a needle thermometer and the temps were within 10 degrees or so across the face of the tread. It is indeed a mystery.

Some people are fans of more is better. I personally use more given my use of the car for autocross and the quick and heavy transitions the car is subjected to as opposed to a more smooth transition you would get in a track scenario If I was doing track work I'd probably back it down to high 2's up front and around 2.0 at the rear.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

-3.0 was close to working for me up front with first gen RT660's doing autcross, but I was still getting too much rollover onto the triangles. I up'd it to -3.5 for my last 4 track days (first HPDE's in this car) and that is barely enough. I've debated throwing on my Steeda front sway bar. I have no clue how people run the Mach 1 supplement alignment and don't destroy tires. I'm probably being overly critical of Steeda at times, but I do think their plates are the best ones on the market short of Vorshlag and they do everything I want.

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