Adding the Handling Package to a Mach 1

[Galvez1978]

Just curious do you have any specific tire sizes for this ratio? I've been trying different ratios and changes in width but cant find any available that would get the diameter closer to Non-HP wheels.

I don't know it this helps you, but the following link it's a spanish site, with a tool for calculating the equivalent size of the wheels.

https://www.itvasa.es/equivalencias.php

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[melwff]

I don't know it this helps you, but the following link it's a spanish site, with a tool for calculating the equivalent size of the wheels.

https://www.itvasa.es/equivalencias.php

Here is an English site
https://tiresize.com/calculator/

 

[theruleslawyer]

I have heard different stories on this: its up to your Ford dealerships experience (and greed) if they can do this and how much they will charge. I have heard Tuners can fix this easily but may cause warranty issues since they are messing with the car programming.

I haven't heard of any tuning ruining warranty for just correcting the speedometer though so it may be a safe option.

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15994

 

[Fastoldman]

Worked at a Ford Dealership for years and frankly the Blue Oval is pretty easy on tracking and some mods compared to most the Automotive Manufacturers , but................once you start messing with tuning and changing the stock computer's configuration stuff goes out the window. Just a word of caution because many items seem to slide by with no issues but this is a plug and play and the first time your car is checked by a Tech, a code gets alerted that things have been played with. Good reason to leave certain things alone till after the warranty period, imho.

 

[Charlemagne]

You have the handling Package in a EU Mach1? If i understand if in Europe if i buy the HP wheels i must buy 285/35 and 305/35 and not 305/30 and 315/30 of the US HP, correct? Have you got installed the adjustable Strut Mounts?

Nope, I just bought the wheels (and lip moldings and splash guards). Big spoiler and second splitter wouldn't fit to my car cover and I'm not that thrilled with them either, and splitter is not practical here. You can buy any tyres and it seems the car won't mind even the 4.7% diameter difference in the back, supposedly mustangs don't mind and the only effect will be difference between real and shown speed. It can be changed in Forscan, but I have no diagnostics or don't want to mess with it, plus I like 35 profile from reasons written so I went with it.

Just curious do you have any specific tire sizes for this ratio? I've been trying different ratios and changes in width but cant find any available that would get the diameter closer to Non-HP wheels.

I went with 285/35 R19 in the front (-0.4% difference) and 305/35 R19 in the rear (-1.1% difference). 275/35 - 305/35 in the front and 295/35 in the rear works too. Profile 30 is lot tougher and differences are bigger. But US folks change tyres for seasons of different dimensions and have no issues so this might be overthinking in Mustang's case
From the pics I felt 305 in the front is bit too much poking so 285 would suit it better. Profile 35 has higher sidewalls and fills the wheel gap better (no need for lowering which is problematic on bad roads and such with these low clearances especially with front splitter if I ever opt for it) and is better for bad roads too. Just some personal thoughts I had. 300+ mm in the rear was my dream for years, I admit it.

I haven't heard of any tuning ruining warranty for just correcting the speedometer though so it may be a safe option.

This should be safe, it's just a setting, not an engine tune or something. Also this is something your dealer will take care off, they sell narrower winter tyres etc. so they must know how to adjust it.

 

[Galvez1978]

Nope, I just bought the wheels (and lip moldings and splash guards). Big spoiler and second splitter wouldn't fit to my car cover and I'm not that thrilled with them either, and splitter is not practical here. You can buy any tyres and it seems the car won't mind even the 4.7% diameter difference in the back, supposedly mustangs don't mind and the only effect will be difference between real and shown speed. It can be changed in Forscan, but I have no diagnostics or don't want to mess with it, plus I like 35 profile from reasons written so I went with it.


I went with 285/35 R19 in the front (-0.4% difference) and 305/35 R19 in the rear (-1.1% difference). 275/35 - 305/35 in the front and 295/35 in the rear works too. Profile 30 is lot tougher and differences are bigger. But US folks change tyres for seasons of different dimensions and have no issues so this might be overthinking in Mustang's case
From the pics I felt 305 in the front is bit too much poking so 285 would suit it better. Profile 35 has higher sidewalls and fills the wheel gap better (no need for lowering which is problematic on bad roads and such with these low clearances especially with front splitter if I ever opt for it) and is better for bad roads too. Just some personal thoughts I had. 300+ mm in the rear was my dream for years, I admit it.


This should be safe, it's just a setting, not an engine tune or something. Also this is something your dealer will take care off, they sell narrower winter tyres etc. so they must know how to adjust it.

The tire sensors included in the wheels pack works? Or you need buy other pack for EU Mustangs?

 

[Charlemagne]

Included TPMS sensors work only for US cars, they are 315 MHz. We use 433 MHz frequency in EU mustangs so I had to buy new ones (and sold the US ones within a day for 50% cashback, great).

Btw, the HP wheels are on sale from velocity-group.de for 1799 € incl. VAT. Steeda EU has them for 2298 € too.
https://www.velocity-group.de/felge...-handling-pack-10-5-x-19-und-11-x-19-schwarz/

 

[Galvez1978]

Included TPMS sensors work only for US cars, they are 315 MHz. We use 433 MHz frequency in EU mustangs so I had to buy new ones (and sold the US ones within a day for 50% cashback, great).

Btw, the HP wheels are on sale from velocity-group.de for 1799 € incl. VAT. Steeda EU has them for 2298 € too.
https://www.velocity-group.de/felge...-handling-pack-10-5-x-19-und-11-x-19-schwarz/

Thanks! But sadly i just buy the wheels in my city.

 

[Rynoe]

Back to some Spoiler talk. Alright after that little hiccup (go see the end of post #7 on here) I can go into how I removed the blade spoiler without hurting the car at all:

First I had to remove all of the trunk lid insulation and covers to get to the spoiler's bolts. There are plenty of youtube videos but this guy goes into the most detail of getting at them. He does make it look easy as I'm sure for most of yall the deck lid latch cover wont just "pop" off like his. Mine has plastic stress marks from this process. The trunk lid bumpers were also a pain as the factory cross threaded one of mine.

After taking off the bolts (follow the previous video or this one to do this) I pre heated the blade's adhesive with a $30 heat gun from amazon.

Instead of using plastic pry tools that could damage the paint, I used 50lb fishing line and fish filet gloves (~$10) and began gently sawing through the double sided tape at either end. Be sure to saw upward at an angle (not directly across the bumper) so it does not hurt the paint. Once I hit the threaded stud, I gently pulled up on the end until I created a big enough gap to thread the fishing line through to the other side of it. Once I made it to the center of the spoiler, I slowly lifted it off and away leaving a mess of residual double sided tape for me to clean.

There are easier ways to do this (eraser wheel or goo-off) but I did not want to chance hurting the paint. With one hand holding the heat gun and the other rubbing the adhesive I developed the worst blister I've ever had in my life cleaning the trunk lid. I then used alcohol to clean the area in preparation for the spoiler.

Next I will kind of explain how it should go and not how it went for me again. First begin by laying the template over your bolt holes to make sure all are centered. Then prep the new spoiler by cutting the tape film and adding tabs so you can pull the film off after lowering the spoiler on the car. I used an exacto knife but a box cutter will work just as well.

Lower the spoiler carefully and make sure all studs go easily into the trunk lid holes. If you are working alone, wrap the outside wings in towels and line up the center portion. With all studs aligned, I threaded the nuts to the nylon bite point which allowed me enough of a gap to pull the film off. First I aligned and dropped the center portion of the spoiler and then the outside wings. I applied pressure to the adhesive points working outwards and from the front to back of the spoiler. I then tightened the nuts down and repeated applying pressure to the three areas.

Though it was a hell of a headache I think it turned out great!

For those who want theirs painted as well, Tommy Vaughn Ford body shop did an excellent job and made it a point to not just match the paint of the blade spoiler but the other magnetic grey parts of the car.

Next project will be adding the foam tape back to the gurney flap (body shop removed it) and then will be done with the spoiler .... finally.

 

[Rynoe]

Received the foam tape today and got a lot more than I thought!

If anyone needs any amount if you get yours painted like mine, please let me know and I’ll mail some this is just going to collect dust in my garage.

I added extra to my gurney flap since I didn’t have to worry about running out:

I bought four rubber 1/8” thick washers (~1.25” in dia) and lightly glued them to the bolt holes. Forgot to take a picture of this but you get the idea. Adding the gurney flap was easy and definitely adds a whole new look to the spoiler.

Some complain they can’t see out of this car with it on but after driving a Camaro for 6 years I felt right at home

Next I’ll be looking into suspension components. A close friend said he could tune my magneride suspension but he would need to see a 2022 Mach 1 with the HP first to pull its settings. Looking at the Mach 1 tracking thread this could be awhile…

 

[Atlas1]

Some complain they can’t see out of this car with it on but after driving a Camaro for 6 years I felt right at home

I can see perfectly………out of the top half of the rear window

 

[Jimmy Dean]

Received the foam tape today and got a lot more than I thought!

If anyone needs any amount if you get yours painted like mine, please let me know and I’ll mail some this is just going to collect dust in my garage.

I added extra to my gurney flap since I didn’t have to worry about running out:

I bought four rubber 1/8” thick washers (~1.25” in dia) and lightly glued them to the bolt holes. Forgot to take a picture of this but you get the idea. Adding the gurney flap was easy and definitely adds a whole new look to the spoiler.

Some complain they can’t see out of this car with it on but after driving a Camaro for 6 years I felt right at home

Next I’ll be looking into suspension components. A close friend said he could tune my magneride suspension but he would need to see a 2022 Mach 1 with the HP first to pull its settings. Looking at the Mach 1 tracking thread this could be awhile…

a 21 should have the same suspension tuning.

 

[Rynoe]

a 21 should have the same suspension tuning.

I'm reciting this off of memory so I apologize in advance: the trouble is Ford changes their code every year in their vehicles which is why Ford Performance always takes so long to confirm that all parts for the previous model year work for the current model year. With the decrease in 10hp this definitely happened to the Mach 1. In order for a ford rep to warranty it, they would need to match the 22' code.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

I'm reciting this off of memory so I apologize in advance: the trouble is Ford changes their code every year in their vehicles which is why Ford Performance always takes so long to confirm that all parts for the previous model year work for the current model year. With the decrease in 10hp this definitely happened to the Mach 1. In order for a ford rep to warranty it, they would need to match the 22' code.

ah, got me there. dunno. my daily driver is a 1986 bronco....what codes?

 

[Rynoe]

ah, got me there. dunno. my daily driver is a 1986 bronco....what codes?

haha now you got me there! I honestly am the farthest from a programmer you can get. From what he told me, the "section" for the magneride values are not like the speedometer and easy to get to. Thats why ford performance has to provide software instructions and a voucher for their kit M-9602-M (which I may go with If it ends up being compatible).

Again sorry I'm not much help explaining this

Edit: M-9602-M is not compatible with the Mach 1

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