Adding the Handling Package to a Mach 1

[Rynoe]

All,

upfront, this is my first thread on here and this will be ongoing probably for a year. Posts will be sporadic as parts roll in and I don’t plan on switching to the HP wheels until my stocks are worn so it’ll be a bit. Full disclosure my car is a 2022 Mach 1 W/O the handling package. After getting my order canceled in 2021 I decided to just get the car and I’ll add the HP myself. Noticing that doing this severely lacks instructions I decided to get that started on here too. If any of my instructions are wrong I’ll do my best to edit and correct also feel free to add on your own instructions/experience as well!

rear tire spats/rock guards/fender deflectors:

• Rock guard right
  • KR3Z-6328370-AA
  • $52.97
• Rock guard left
  • KR3Z-6328371-AA
  • $52.97
• Plastic rivets
  • Told to order 4 (used 6)
  • W714040-S300
  • $3.48
• screws with washer
  • Told to order 4 (used 0)
  • W715060-S450B
  • $6.95

So there are two approaches to this:

1. Jack up the rear of the car to create a large enough gap
2. Jack up and remove the rear tires to access the rear wheel well area

you may be able to not do either if you have tiny hands. Once this is done you’ll see this:

Two plastic rivets hold the well liner down (a third to the right if you need more working room). If you have an upholstery tool these are easy and if not I’d recommend the largest flathead you have. They are big ones:

after this pull the well liner back and you’ll see the two screws you need to remove. I was told to order 4 of these but were never needed.

After removing these Screws, fit The rock guard into position and make sure the upper plastic pin doesn't miss the top mounting hole. you can hand turn the screws in and I added two plastic rivets to the two holes below the mounting pin. These fit a 7mm metric socket. There is a third mounting hole at the very bottom I used a third plastic rivet for as well.

The top two holes look like they could have screw clips but since the well liner didn’t cover them, I felt a plastic rivet would handle the dirt and debris better. I added the original two plastic rivets back in securing the well liner.

Overall it took under an hour and looks great! The plastic pins hold it better than I thought and the guard material matches the rear diffuser.

Update: I ended up adding the two screws at the top of the guard. This was just to exactly match the handling package.

honestly I think the plastic clips would have held just as tightly. These clips are a pain to add for someone with big fingers and requires patience.

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[Ctodd1]

Folks will appreciate the instructions, as you said, they come with none. The upper pins are the key to a good tight fit.

 

[melwff]

The screw clips are missing which is why you didnt use the 4 screws. Post 21 has the hardware
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mach-1-rear-wheel-lip-molding-part-number.158533/page-2

 

[Rynoe]

The screw clips are missing which is why you didnt use the 4 screws. Post 21 has the hardware
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mach-1-rear-wheel-lip-molding-part-number.158533/page-2

AH! thats the part number! I'll edit/update when I add them this upcoming weekend. Thanks soo much!

 

[Rynoe]

Alrighty, busy Saturday adding the clips to the rear guards but I was able to add the front wheel lip moldings as well. overall it was an easy process. First I wanted to post the full instructions because they don’t seem to be readily available:

A couple things I did differently than the instructions:

• Didn’t remove the wheels: if you just jack up the car and turn the wheels, you'll have more than enough room.
• Use all of the provided clips: I have the Novistretch mesh cover that uses clips and screws for 2 of the 3 front end pins.

The instructions also don’t specify which pins to remove:

It was cold here in Houston so I used my wife’s professional heat gun:

Fitting the molds was easy following the instructions but I just wanted to warn the adhesion activator smells god awful. Highly recommend a shop fan rather than just a box fan.

I heated the adhesive after applying pressure to allow it to release stress and then applied pressure again (Old trick I learned in a shipyard).

Without HP wheels on, these do not look bad at all and was another part I wondered why ford left off all Mach 1s.

I received the spoiler today as well and will be getting paint quotes this week!

 

[Rynoe]

May update this post later:
First couple quotes for painting the spoiler and gurney flap have come in at $200-$250 from good reputable shops. This is high, but I feel like in this scenario you are paying for quality so I don’t have a problem with it.

Paint code was determined to be J7 Magnetic Metallic with a 4 stage satin clear coat. Total shop time is 1.5 - 2 days. Still more quotes coming in so ranges here may change.

Update 3/1/22:
The best shops want to match this perfectly with my existing spoiler for around $460 but I don't think its needed. Fun fact: the shade of magnetic metallic on your mirrors, bumper, and spoiler are all a little different shade! Thanks Ford quality! A Ford body shop in the area told me its typical where even on the F150 Raptors the fenders are all different shades

Price range is from $200 - $478 at high rated high volume paint shops. Most are at the $200-$350 range. A lot are excited to do this and want pictures after I install it. All were very patient and listened to how I thought it was supposed to be handled where they each then went into how they would handle it.

 

[Rynoe]

Alrighty the good news:

Spoiler was painted perfectly. I think there was a little more metallic in my blade but I kind of prefer the matte look over it.

As you can see he had to take the one sided foam tape off of the gurney flap but I’m ok with that and ordered some. That’s for a later time.

The bad bad news:

I went to fit the spoiler and everything appeared to line up correctly. Removed the blade (that’ll be a separate post) and Followed the instructions to the “t”. I cut the tape shields and added tabs to the bottom of the shields in order to pull them off as I was lowering it once positioned correctly. Center portion is absolutely perfect without issues:

passenger and drivers side portions are lifted and won’t go down no matter how much force I push down.

Update 3/16/22: Deleted past updates and my various false assumptions Found the issue! To paint the spoiler, the paint shop hand tightened bolts on to the outer two threaded studs and then covered them with painters tape. They uncovered the threaded stud but not the bolt beneath it. I don't have a picture but they made it look like a neoprene washer and I missed it. I was able to unbolt the outer wings and gently warp the spoiler away from the trunk to take the bolts off. Since these bolts created a gap, I could still use most of the tape. Where I couldn't I used 3M automotive tape to fill the gaps. I bought new nylon nuts and washers to use as well (size M6-1.0 for reference). Install was a breeze after that and as described.

 

[Galvez1978]

May update this post later:
First couple quotes for painting the spoiler and gurney flap have come in at $200-$250 from good reputable shops. This is high, but I feel like in this scenario you are paying for quality so I don’t have a problem with it.

Paint code was determined to be J7 Magnetic Metallic with a 4 stage satin clear coat. Total shop time is 1.5 - 2 days. Still more quotes coming in so ranges here may change.

Update 3/1/22:
The best shops want to match this perfectly with my existing spoiler for around $460 but I don't think its needed. Fun fact: the shade of magnetic metallic on your mirrors, bumper, and spoiler are all a little different shade! Thanks Ford quality! A Ford body shop in the area told me its typical where even on the F150 Raptors the fenders are all different shades

Price range is from $200 - $478 at high rated high volume paint shops. Most are at the $200-$350 range. A lot are excited to do this and want pictures after I install it. All were very patient and listened to how I thought it was supposed to be handled where they each then went into how they would handle it.

Hello, if you needed, Ford have a direct reference to buy the rear spoiler with gourney flap in Low Magnetic Grey.

 

[Rynoe]

Hello, if you needed, Ford have a direct reference to buy the rear spoiler with gourney flap in Low Magnetic Grey.

Yeah actually I may if I keep having to rip this spoiler off damaging it. Ford performance said to check the bolt holes Just for everyone’s reference as well do you have a part number?

 

[Galvez1978]

Yeah actually I may if I keep having to rip this spoiler off damaging it. Ford performance said to check the bolt holes Just for everyone’s reference as well do you have a part number?

I’m sorry I don’t have the reference, the Spanish import don’t want to say which it’s.

Other question, you know if it’s necessary the adjustable strut mount for fit the HP wheels? or the normal strut it’s ok.
Regards.

 

[Rynoe]

I’m sorry I don’t have the reference, the Spanish import don’t want to say which it’s.

Other question, you know if it’s necessary the adjustable strut mount for fit the HP wheels? or the normal strut it’s ok.
Regards.

To be honest I haven't made it that far yet with the HP wheels but looking at everyone's posts on them you only need an alignment. It will look better with lowering springs though

Another thing some people will need to do (based on different country regulations) is adjust your speedometer for smaller tires. The stock tires with the HP wheels are smaller in diameter than the non-HP tires.

 

[Charlemagne]

@Galvez1978 The adjustable camber plates are for easier changing between street and track alignment. You can run any wheels fine without them, ofc regular alignment is worth checking from time to time.

You can kill two flies with one blow - get 35 profile tyres to make the wheel gap smaller (more rubber on shitty roads is good too) and have negligable tyre diameter difference (good for regular switching between summer/winter sets). I went with PS4S 285/35 front and PSS 305/35 rear, or square 295/35 with Continental SportContact 6 is possible, that allows for rotation too.

 

[Galvez1978]

To be honest I haven't made it that far yet with the HP wheels but looking at everyone's posts on them you only need an alignment. It will look better with lowering springs though

Another thing some people will need to do (based on different country regulations) is adjust your speedometer for smaller tires. The stock tires with the HP wheels are smaller in diameter than the non-HP tires.

Thank you for your reply, i can't install lowers springs, because the clearance with the floor it's minimal, an in Europe al the cities are fans of the speed bumps , the calibration of the speedometer is difficult?

Regards!

 

[Galvez1978]

@Galvez1978 The adjustable camber plates are for easier changing between street and track alignment. You can run any wheels fine without them, ofc regular alignment is worth checking from time to time.

You can kill two flies with one blow - get 35 profile tyres to make the wheel gap smaller (more rubber on shitty roads is good too) and have negligable tyre diameter difference (good for regular switching between summer/winter sets). I went with PS4S 285/35 front and PSS 305/35 rear, or square 295/35 with Continental SportContact 6 is possible, that allows for rotation too.

You have the handling Package in a EU Mach1? If i understand if in Europe if i buy the HP wheels i must buy 285/35 and 305/35 and not 305/30 and 315/30 of the US HP, correct? Have you got installed the adjustable Strut Mounts?

Regards!

 

[Rynoe]

@Galvez1978
You can kill two flies with one blow - get 35 profile tyres to make the wheel gap smaller (more rubber on shitty roads is good too) and have negligable tyre diameter difference (good for regular switching between summer/winter sets). I went with PS4S 285/35 front and PSS 305/35 rear, or square 295/35 with Continental SportContact 6 is possible, that allows for rotation too.

Just curious do you have any specific tire sizes for this ratio? I've been trying different ratios and changes in width but cant find any available that would get the diameter closer to Non-HP wheels.

Thank you for your reply, i can't install lowers springs, because the clearance with the floor it's minimal, an in Europe al the cities are fans of the speed bumps , the calibration of the speedometer is difficult?

Regards!

I have heard different stories on this: its up to your Ford dealerships experience (and greed) if they can do this and how much they will charge. I have heard Tuners can fix this easily but may cause warranty issues since they are messing with the car programming.

I haven't heard of any tuning ruining warranty for just correcting the speedometer though so it may be a safe option.

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