Adding camber to a 19+ 350R

[Seven]

So after having a shop try to do the factory track alignment on my '19 R, they were only able to get -1.8L/-1.9R out of the car.
Funnily enough they got the rear camber just fine.

I looked into why even with adjustable strut tops they couldn't get more and found this thread - https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ford-adjustable-strut-mount-camber-limits.131400/

The highlight of that thread being that a Ford rep said "The plant alignment allows for ±0.75 of camber variation from nominal, which means the GT350R could leave the plant at -0.37deg, where the adjustable plates could only get it to roughly -1.5deg in the worst case.

(I'm surprised at the size of the variation allowance from factory) I'm assuming my car probably left the factory closer to -0.5 or -0.6 or so and that's why the alignment shop couldn't get more...

So my question is this... I only really want the -2.2 that's on the Perf Supplement... Are people seeing changes of .3-.4 with BMR bolts (if that even a viable solution)?
Or will I need camber plates?

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[The Chairman]

I believe your adjustable strut tops are in fact camber plates: One and the same.
To get more than 2 degrees you will need BMR bolts. One on each side.

 

[Seven]

I believe your adjustable strut tops are in fact camber plates: One and the same.
To get more than 2 degrees you will need BMR bolts. One on each side.

I believe the strut tops are just "less adjustable" than aftermarket, but agree - they are camber plates.

Sounds like I'm buying BMR bolts then

 

[The Chairman]

I believe the strut tops are just "less adjustable" than aftermarket, but agree - they are camber plates.

Sounds like I'm buying BMR bolts then

Factory or aftermarket camber plates, neither will give you more than about 2 degrees camber without cutting the strut towers. And you don’t want to do that! The BMR bolts with the camber plates can get you up to ~3 degrees. I run between 2.7 and 2.9 degrees. That’s best for a GT350.

 

[Tomster]

The 500 has a maintenence procedure where you have to remove 3 pin screws to achieve more camber on factory installed track camber plates. I dont suppose your were factory installed? Maybe thats just a 500 thing.

On my Rs, I use vorshlag camber plates. If you are thinking of replacing your existing plates, I would definitely recommend them.

 

[meterman]

I installed BMR camber bolts and was able to get -2.4, without them I was at -2.0.

I would like -2.75+/- and am considering other camber plates.

 

[galaxy]

On my Rs, I use vorshlag camber plates. If you are thinking of replacing your existing plates, I would definitely recommend them.

Tom...I've heard the Vorshlag plates are almost too gorgeous to actually put on the car. But one of our guys on here said he took his off because the NVH was just too much. I believe he said due to the design and not having any isolators, everything is just solid mount. Great for performance and accuracy, but transfers every little thing to the wheel. What's your thoughts?

And just to confirm, these -2° numbers you guys are running are for the track, right?

 

[Tomster]

Tom...I've heard the Vorshlag plates are almost too gorgeous to actually put on the car. But one of our guys on here said he took his off because the NVH was just too much. I believe he said due to the design and not having any isolators, everything is just solid mount. Great for performance and accuracy, but transfers every little thing to the wheel. What's your thoughts?

And just to confirm, these -2° numbers you guys are running are for the track, right?

I had them installed on the yellow R for many years and never had a problem. Yes, they are works of art, and a shame to bury them under a strut tower.

Im probably going to take all that stuff and install it in one of the other R's. I just cant bring myself to drilling a 1 of 135 car for a roll bar for all the model years.

So how is your projects coming along. I haven't seen anything new lately.

Edited to add:
I missed the 2 degree setting. It depends on the track. I use less camber at Daytona due to the higher speeds and longer duration on the banks. My deep rooted concern is tire delamination at high speeds, so I sacrifice inside course maneuverability (slightly) for better wear and temps on the outside banks

Many other more technical courses (like COTA), yes, more camber is better. Again each track is different. Until you actually run the course and experiment, you don't know what settings are the best. A pyrometer, tire wear, and on track assessment are needed to find the best settings that work for you. I would start with the Ford track recommended settings and go from there. Or, take advice from people who frequent the track you plan to go to and start with their proven settings.

 

[The Chairman]

And just to confirm, these -2° numbers you guys are running are for the track, right?

Personally, I leave mine at 2.7 to 2.9 all the time. Not worth the hassle of changing. But I don’t drive it very much.

 

[galaxy]

So how is your projects coming along. I haven't seen anything new lately.

Nope, nothing new lately. I did get an R splitter that I posted diddly squat about...but who hasn't seen an R splitter? My next project is/was B-Line high flow cats and QA1 shaft at the same time (since the pipes have to come down anyways), but B-Line seems to be waaaay behind with that product, most likely due to covid, that they won't even provide an update anymore. This moved suspension ideas up the list. Trying to put together a list of some tasteful suspension mods and have been soaking up all the camber (and other items) info I can.

 

[Tomster]

Nope, nothing new lately. I did get an R splitter that I posted diddly squat about...but who hasn't seen an R splitter? My next project is/was B-Line high flow cats and QA1 shaft at the same time (since the pipes have to come down anyways), but B-Line seems to be waaaay behind with that product, most likely due to covid, that they won't even provide an update anymore. This moved suspension ideas up the list. Trying to put together a list of some tasteful suspension mods and have been soaking up all the camber (and other items) info I can.

If you don't plan to track the car anytime soon, I wouldn't bother with a track alignment. There isn't a single magic spec for all tracks. The best all around numbers are the ones Ford provides, which is essentially a bit more camber over stock and a few other tweaks.

 

[galaxy]

If you don't plan to track the car anytime soon, I wouldn't bother with a track alignment. There isn't a single magic spec for all tracks. The best all around numbers are the ones Ford provides, which is essentially a bit more camber over stock and a few other tweaks.

I had no plans at all for track numbers. Matter of fact, I'm even wondering if camber plates will even be needed until that day comes.

 

[Tomster]

I had no plans at all for track numbers. Matter of fact, I'm even wondering if camber plates will even be needed until that day comes.

If you are not trying to achieve a track setting, you don't need camber plates.

 

[JAJ]

So, this is what 2.2 degrees looks like on my 2016. It's the same on both sides, so the crossmember is centered:

I'm using the Steeda camber plates. The tape with the dot on it is part of my adjustment toolkit. I put a piece of tape on the fender and make reference mark on it. From there, adjusting is just a matter of measuring - a 0.1 degree camber change is almost exactly 1 mm of movement inward or outward.

 

[ct9ars]

I was able to get -2.5 with the Vorshlag camber plates, the strut top is still 1/4 inch away from the strut tower so double the amount of clearance recommended by Vorshlag.

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