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Ford Adjustable Strut Mount Camber Limits

SgdriskillGT

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My 2019 GT350R is only able to reach front camber settings of -2.2 deg left and -1.8 deg right with Ford's adjustable strut top mounts. That's not enough for my purposes of track use, so I reached out to Ford Performance to understand if this is in their expected range.

Kyle at FP was able to get some good info back from a chassis engineer who helped design the mounts, so I thought I'd pass it along here. My goal was to get down to at least -2.5 deg on both sides, and it looks like I WON'T be able to hit that. I know others have gotten better results (due to more neg camber from the factory presumably), but this is my experience. Here's their answer below, hopefully it is helpful to others with the same interest.

FYI had Vorshlag plates installed and hit -2.7 on both sides, although the left side can go to -2.9.

"Hi Scott,
We got some very good insight from the chassis engineer below:

The majority of the adjust strut mount design work was on the GT500 Track Pack where it showed us the car could go down to -2.25deg from the -1.06deg nominal curb weight position. Due to package space limitations, we could only get around 1.1-1.2 deg of camber change from the plates. If the 19MY GT350R starts at -1.12, Iā€™d expect the car to be able to go to around -2.2deg. However, this is all dependent on the vehicle build variation. The plant alignment allows for Ā±0.75 of camber variation from nominal, which means the GT350R could leave the plant at -0.37deg, where the adjustable plates could only get it to roughly -1.5deg in the worst case. So while the -2.5deg is a little bit outside of the nominal range, most vehicles should be able to reach over -2deg.

In my opinion, if the left to right camber split is off a little bit, Iā€™d take a look at if the subframe might be shifted a little bit on the bolts inside the hole slop, which is possible due to assembly plant build variation. If the subframe can be re-centered, then Scott could get to -2deg on both sides. Beyond that, as you mentioned, Iā€™d look at the strut to knuckle attachment.

Again, these are curb weight numbers, with the weight of a driver, all the camber numbers are more negative.

In regards to the caster on a 19MY GT350R, we shoot for 6.92Ā±0.75 of caster in the nominal camber position, so without seeing the pre-alignment, 6.8 seems realistic. There is no real way to adjust caster on these vehicles, but again itā€™s possible to look if the subframe is not centered, it possibly could be sitting a little rearward on the bolts. If they loosen the subframe bolts and try to shift it forward, and slightly to the right, that might get the alignment centered."



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slikk66

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I'm getting my plates installed currently, plan to go to the track with a car club in about 2 weeks.

This has now got me thinking.. I figured the plan was simply to jack up the car and move the towers over as far as they can go, torque em down properly and go have fun. (Then put them back at end of track time).

Is there more to it than that?
 

The Chairman

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I'm getting my plates installed currently, plan to go to the track with a car club in about 2 weeks.

This has now got me thinking.. I figured the plan was simply to jack up the car and move the towers over as far as they can go, torque em down properly and go have fun. (Then put them back at end of track time).

Is there more to it than that?
You need to reset the toe each time you move the camber as they are linked. So you need to have a way to measure and reset the toe at the track if you are going to change the camber.
I just set the camber & toe for the track and leave it alone. It works fine on the road.
 

slikk66

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So you need to have a way to measure and reset the toe at the track if you are going to change the camber.
Well that's a real bummer. I thought that was the whole point of the package was adjustability for track days.

I spoke to the guy at the shop doing the install and I had said to him this same thing about adjusting it at the track and he said yea that's how it works.

Would it be a big enough issue with the toe to negate doing the camber adjustment at all? It makes sense they're linked, but if I only get 1 more degree or so, is it going to throw out of wack that badly?

Its not a big deal I suppose, but since I paid for the package, and now more for the install (there's some context as to why) I'd sure like to use them while tracking if possible.
 

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Steeda plates and BMR camber bolts got me -3 in the front.

I drive to and from the track typically 150-200 miles each way. Moving from -2.5 deg to -3 deg GREATLY increased inside tire wear on soft R-compound tires. Just giving a heads up in case you drive it to and from.
 

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Well that's a real bummer. I thought that was the whole point of the package was adjustability for track days.

I spoke to the guy at the shop doing the install and I had said to him this same thing about adjusting it at the track and he said yea that's how it works.

Would it be a big enough issue with the toe to negate doing the camber adjustment at all? It makes sense they're linked, but if I only get 1 more degree or so, is it going to throw out of wack that badly?

Its not a big deal I suppose, but since I paid for the package, and now more for the install (there's some context as to why) I'd sure like to use them while tracking if possible.
I was quite surprised how much the toe changed when I moved the camber by just a degree or two. In my case, Iā€™m running 2.5 to 3 degree negative camber. Maybe just changing a degree wonā€™t be as noticeable.
You can do a test case by marking the struts where they are set now, them move to full negative camber, and then drive it to see how it performs. I think you will find it ā€œdartyā€ as the toe has changed enough to when you input a steering change, the car direction changes more than expected. You can always return the struts to the marks after this test.
 
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SgdriskillGT

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Well that's a real bummer. I thought that was the whole point of the package was adjustability for track days.

I spoke to the guy at the shop doing the install and I had said to him this same thing about adjusting it at the track and he said yea that's how it works.

Would it be a big enough issue with the toe to negate doing the camber adjustment at all? It makes sense they're linked, but if I only get 1 more degree or so, is it going to throw out of wack that badly?

Its not a big deal I suppose, but since I paid for the package, and now more for the install (there's some context as to why) I'd sure like to use them while tracking if possible.
If I could go back and do it over, I would get a street alignment before a track day with zero toe. Then I would adjust the camber plates as negative as possible either at the track or before I drive there. Making camber more negative will increase toe out. Which is usually what you want to help turn in.

then Iā€™d run the day and see how the car feels and how the tires wear. You can even measure toe to see where it got to after making a camber adjustment. Maybe itā€™ll be what you want anyway.

Then youā€™ll know if that works. I think this is better than running without camber adjustment.
 

1stMustang-GT500

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Im picking up my 19R now and they didnt install these adjustable plates. Is this something I need to install? Will they charge me for the install if i bring it back later?

Fyi, im not having them do it now cause they say it will take 4 hours and i have a small window to pick up and get it in the garage before the weather turns on me.
 
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SgdriskillGT

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Im picking up my 19R now and they didnt install these adjustable plates. Is this something I need to install? Will they charge me for the install if i bring it back later?

Fyi, im not having them do it now cause they say it will take 4 hours and i have a small window to pick up and get it in the garage before the weather turns on me.
You will be able to take it back later as long as itā€™s the dealership where you bought the car. Ford pays them to install so you should not pay anything extra.

A lot of dealerships just donā€™t know about this, but theyā€™ll figure it out/get it right after you bring it up.

Also make sure they remove the blocks in the suspension before you drive away. Ford ships GT350s with blocks in the front springs and rear dampers to decrease scraping getting on/off transport.

make sure they install the front splitter correctly as well. There are multiple threads here describing how some dealerships donā€™t get the clips in correctly.

but mostly have fun! What an awesome car!
 

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I've had my suspicions about front subframe centering for a while. Mine is not off as much as others have seen, but it seems like some alignment sleeves similar to the rear (Steeda) may be in order. I have confidence the holes in the chassis are going to be very close to right since they hold close tolerances on fixturing for robotic welding on that stuff, but the slop in the subframe bolt holes is large to accommodate quick assembly. The large tolerance on alignment specs bares that out. Gonna check this out when I install my engine mount brackets since the whole engine will be supported at that point.
 

1stMustang-GT500

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You will be able to take it back later as long as itā€™s the dealership where you bought the car. Ford pays them to install so you should not pay anything extra.

A lot of dealerships just donā€™t know about this, but theyā€™ll figure it out/get it right after you bring it up.

Also make sure they remove the blocks in the suspension before you drive away. Ford ships GT350s with blocks in the front springs and rear dampers to decrease scraping getting on/off transport.

make sure they install the front splitter correctly as well. There are multiple threads here describing how some dealerships donā€™t get the clips in correctly.

but mostly have fun! What an awesome car!
Thank you so much for the information, i did make sure they removed the blocks, i had to show the sales manager what they were. I talked to the Service Manager and he was half clueless about the adjustable plates and was pretty animate about its a bunch of work and I would have to pay. I asked him to look into it more and he semi blew me off.
 
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SgdriskillGT

SgdriskillGT

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Thank you so much for the information, i did make sure they removed the blocks, i had to show the sales manager what they were. I talked to the Service Manager and he was half clueless about the adjustable plates and was pretty animate about its a bunch of work and I would have to pay. I asked him to look into it more and he semi blew me off.
Yea def donā€™t let them make you pay, thatā€™s BS!
 

16Kobra

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Im picking up my 19R now and they didnt install these adjustable plates. Is this something I need to install? Will they charge me for the install if i bring it back later?

Fyi, im not having them do it now cause they say it will take 4 hours and i have a small window to pick up and get it in the garage before the weather turns on me.
When I picked mine up in Atlanta, the plates were not installed. When I called them the next day, their response "Aw Shoot, we forgot all about them, we will ship them to you". 2 days later they arrived. Called my local dealer and they are installing them next week. They will bill it under warranty work or something like that....
 

16Kobra

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Also, when I picked mine up, the blocks were in a bag in my trunk. I made sure to look before I left the dealership.
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