Added Extra's to dial in Camber after Lowering Spring Install

stpolo

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I'll be lowering my '15 GT w/PP this winter or spring with 1.5" lowering springs in the front and 1" in the rear. I want to give a reputable shop the ability to dial in the camber as close to stock camber or to have as much of the tire connect to the pavement as possible. Will BMR camber bolts (FC003) for the front and the BMR Rear camber adjustment lockout kit along with the J&M rear subframe alignment kit do a good job of this? Thanks in advance for any help as it is greatly appreciated!





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fmc_smt

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I have a 2015 on eibach sportlines. 1.5 drop at all four corners . The fronts I installed maximum motor sports camber /caster plates . There is enough adjustment in the rear to get everything back to spec .

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kz

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I'll be lowering my '15 GT w/PP this winter or spring with 1.5" lowering springs in the front and 1" in the rear. I want to give a reputable shop the ability to dial in the camber as close to stock camber or to have as much of the tire connect to the pavement as possible. Will BMR camber bolts (FC003) for the front and the BMR Rear camber adjustment lockout kit along with the J&M rear subframe alignment kit do a good job of this? Thanks in advance for any help as it is greatly appreciated!
For the rear comber - none of these things will have any impact on "dialing in the camber". If you want to make it easier for the shop, you have to replace camber arm with the adjustable one (as stock camber is adjusted by sliding the inboard mount of a stock arm).

Not sure what camber numbers are you looking for but with rear you might be able to hit the spec without any modifications to the suspension - like said above.
 

fmc_smt

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For the rear comber - none of these things will have any impact on "dialing in the camber". If you want to make it easier for the shop, you have to replace camber arm with the adjustable one (as stock camber is adjusted by sliding the inboard mount of a stock arm).

Not sure what camber numbers are you looking for but with rear you might be able to hit the spec without any modifications to the suspension - like said above.
The only pain the ass is the left side , hard to get to the adjustment point due to the filler neck being in the way .
 

kz

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The only pain the ass is the left side , hard to get to the adjustment point due to the filler neck being in the way .
I was more talking about having to go back and forth between camber and toe adjustments to have them what you want as one changes with the other - and that sliding inboard mount of stock camber arm isn't really an accurate way to set it - that's why it's pain in the ass. But certainly doable.
 

Juantrickpony

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I have a 2015 on eibach sportlines. 1.5 drop at all four corners . The fronts I installed maximum motor sports camber /caster plates . There is enough adjustment in the rear to get everything back to spec .

20190818_112029.jpg


20200808_083117.jpg


20200105_114658.jpg


20200105_114715.jpg
Which shocks and struts are you running? I plan on replacing my originals. Just wondering what works good with Sportlines. :beer:
 

fmc_smt

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Which shocks and struts are you running? I plan on replacing my originals. Just wondering what works good with Sportlines. :beer:
Right now stock shocks , as for the rear there have been some upgrades . Viking shocks , basically a stedea stop the hop stuff , bmr shock mounts and vertical links . I'm boosted so was working on get the rear to hook .

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msalvoni

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I have a 2015 on eibach sportlines. 1.5 drop at all four corners . The fronts I installed maximum motor sports camber /caster plates . There is enough adjustment in the rear to get everything back to spec .

20190818_112029.jpg


20200808_083117.jpg


20200105_114658.jpg


20200105_114715.jpg
Right now stock shocks , as for the rear there have been some upgrades . Viking shocks , basically a stedea stop the hop stuff , bmr shock mounts and vertical links . I'm boosted so was working on get the rear to hook .

20200808_065157.jpg


20200808_065336.jpg


20200613_092509.jpg


20200808_065011.jpg
what are you boosted with?
I was planning on just throwing on the eiback sportline springs (for now) by themselves what are your thoughts on this...

forgive me but I am a newbie and I would love to understand more about springs vs shocks and how each effects the handling...
 

NGOT8R

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I really like the stance of your car! I wish I could get away with it on mine, but with very expensive LTs installed, it’s a risk that I can’t take, as I would hate to scrape them. Hands down though, that is the way a Mustang should sit!
 

fmc_smt

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what are you boosted with?
I was planning on just throwing on the eiback sportline springs (for now) by themselves what are your thoughts on this...

forgive me but I am a newbie and I would love to understand more about springs vs shocks and how each effects the handling...
If your going to change springs that is good time to update the upper strut plate on the fronts , you will want an adjustable one so you can adjust camber and camber . Also if you want to change the front struts this is the time to do it . Struts and shocks control coil oscillation, hence will bounce if there is no damping , strut , shock . A strut is also a suspension component as compared to shock .
 

fmc_smt

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I really like the stance of your car! I wish I could get away with it on mine, but with very expensive LTs installed, it’s a risk that I can’t take, as I would hate to scrape them. Hands down though, that is the way a Mustang should sit!
OK p
I really like the stance of your car! I wish I could get away with it on mine, but with very expensive LTs installed, it’s a risk that I can’t take, as I would hate to scrape them. Hands down though, that is the way a Mustang should sit!
You might be surprised with you can get away with ...... the only concern I have is with the front splitter . I hardly ever bottom out , and usually it is the things in front of my rear tires .
 

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