A/C compressor not spinning

[TexasRebel]

Any way to check if the compressor is locked up of if the clutch is just bad?

The solenoid seems to be engaging, but the compressor shaft isn't spinning. It turns just slightly and slowly when the clutch should be engaged and there is what appears to be clutch material or grease extruding from the bearing.

Can the clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?

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[Cobra Jet]

The most common failure of the FEAD system on the S550 5.0 is the A/C field coil/clutch head which also contains the pulley. My guess is that your A/C clutch is on its way out.

This thread has the info from the Ford shop manual for how to replace it:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tentially-a-c-compressor.129712/#post-2686995

This thread was from another M6G Member where the failure turned out to be the A/C field coil/clutch head:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-is-this-passenger-side-lower-main-pulley-ac.121072/

There is also the DIY of an additional belt tensioner to the Coyote which some say helps with the A/C issues:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/uh-guys.113536/

---

If the A/C pressure switch is bad, the clutch won't engage when A/C or defroster settings are turned on. If the compressor clutch still tries to recirculate when turning on A/C or Defroster setting, it's not the A/C pressure switch. It's either failing compressor clutch/clutch coil or low on refrigerant. Usually to test for A/C pressure switch failure, pull the connector off the top of the switch, jumper the connector and if the clutch engages, it was the switch. Now granted if refrigerant is low, a functional A/C pressure switch will still kick the compressor clutch on, but it will keep cycling quickly on/off, on/off etc and won't maintain a constant "on". That's when you know the system is low on refrigerant OR there's an issue with the clutch coil.

IF the clutch freezes while in operation, it will instantly shred the serpentine belt - and in some instances the entire clutch/clutch coil assembly will blow apart.

 

[K4fxd]

Do your fans run even when you turn the A/C switch off? if so you might have a clogged condenser.

 

[TexasRebel]

Do your fans run even when you turn the A/C switch off? if so you might have a clogged condenser.

No. The fans are operating normally... which is to say, not at all because the pressure isn't rising.

 

[TexasRebel]

The most common failure of the FEAD system on the S550 5.0 is the A/C field coil/clutch head which also contains the pulley. My guess is that your A/C clutch is on its way out.

This thread has the info from the Ford shop manual for how to replace it:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...tentially-a-c-compressor.129712/#post-2686995

This thread was from another M6G Member where the failure turned out to be the A/C field coil/clutch head:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/what-is-this-passenger-side-lower-main-pulley-ac.121072/

There is also the DIY of an additional belt tensioner to the Coyote which some say helps with the A/C issues:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/uh-guys.113536/

---

If the A/C pressure switch is bad, the clutch won't engage when A/C or defroster settings are turned on. If the compressor clutch still tries to recirculate when turning on A/C or Defroster setting, it's not the A/C pressure switch. It's either failing compressor clutch/clutch coil or low on refrigerant. Usually to test for A/C pressure switch failure, pull the connector off the top of the switch, jumper the connector and if the clutch engages, it was the switch. Now granted if refrigerant is low, a functional A/C pressure switch will still kick the compressor clutch on, but it will keep cycling quickly on/off, on/off etc and won't maintain a constant "on". That's when you know the system is low on refrigerant OR there's an issue with the clutch coil.

IF the clutch freezes while in operation, it will instantly shred the serpentine belt - and in some instances the entire clutch/clutch coil assembly will blow apart.

As i don't have any way to reclaim or recharge my refrigerant system, I'm taking this one to the dealer.

I did price clutches and compressors on rockauto today. A clutch kit is in the $3-400 range while a kit with a new compressor, condenser, and some other stuff is in the $2-250 range.

 

[Keo_S550]

As i don't have any way to reclaim or recharge my refrigerant system, I'm taking this one to the dealer.

I did price clutches and compressors on rockauto today. A clutch kit is in the $3-400 range while a kit with a new compressor, condenser, and some other stuff is in the $2-250 range.

Or find one used.. these “street car” drag racers probably still have their ac compressors sitting on a shelf somewhere. That’s what I’m doing because mine went out also.

 

[StangTime]

Or find one used.. these “street car” drag racers probably still have their ac compressors sitting on a shelf somewhere. That’s what I’m doing because mine went out also.

This guy might still have his: @fatbillybob https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/garage-sale-near-new-take-off-parts.173525/post-3514389

 

[K4fxd]

My compressor either sent debris into the condensor clogging it up or the dryer ruptured causing the same. Either way I had to replace both.

Had similar symptoms, A/C blew hot and the compressor would spin slow then stop.

Scanner showed high pressure so I hooked up my gauges and found the high side was over 480psi. Low side pulled a vacuum when the compressor did spin.

You need to remove the compressor from the car to replace the clutch.

 

[Keo_S550]

This guy might still have his: @fatbillybob https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/garage-sale-near-new-take-off-parts.173525/post-3514389

Good look but I found another one on this forum already. Thanks!

 

[TexasRebel]

Verdict:
Compressor is kaput. $1,500 OTD quote.

I'd had a suspicion that the mess with the evaporator four years ago didn't do that compressor any good.

If anyone is keeping track, I've now had the A/C go out 3 times in 6 years.
I sure miss vent windows and toe vents.

 

[K4fxd]

I think the shop that replaced mine did not flush the lines. It is starting to blow warm air. It was 1475 for compressor, condenser/dryer and labor.

 

[fatbillybob]

This guy might still have his: @fatbillybob https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/garage-sale-near-new-take-off-parts.173525/post-3514389

I got it. I also have no room so some stuff gets tradhef. I hope to give good stuff to good home

 

[TexasRebel]

$1,612.99 for everything.

New compressor w/clutch. New Belt. 2 yr/unlimited warranty.

Labor was over $600 alone.

The torsional damper was melted. I'm not sure I agree with the use of a rubber damper on the A/C compressor. Seems like springs would be better.

They said the old compressor wasn't torn up inside.

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