5 dead starters, suggestions?

[jmn444]

i killed a powermaster as well. which was what caused me to get a new battery.

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[ChipG]

Wow - how long did it last? have you taken it apart or talked to Powermaster?

Hmm, I'll have to look at when I installed it, but it lasted maybe a year. I've neither dismantled it nor contacted Powermaster. I should do the latter, at least.

 

[boB]

Just a guess: smaller construction equipment (Caterpillar Backhoes and Skid Steers) uses similar Denso starters. They may be designed to hold up better under vibration. We would only need the solenoid part or even just the brushes with shunts.
Again, this is just a guess.

 

[honeybadger]

i killed a powermaster as well. which was what caused me to get a new battery.

Hmm, I'll have to look at when I installed it, but it lasted maybe a year. I've neither dismantled it nor contacted Powermaster. I should do the latter, at least.

Good to know. I'll stop recommending them. Wonder how many are getting killed by battery vs. vibrations. BOo

 

[jmn444]

I think it's fine to recommend still, i have one on my '68 that has been fantastic, I'm not blaming the starter on what i think is a battery issue for me.

 

[MikeR397]

thanks that the datapoints the power master is also dying. I bought a heat shield I’m gonna have them put on the oem starter and hopefully at least get a year out of it and be careful to open the hood between sessions.

 

[ChipG]

I used one of the heat shield wraps to no avail. I think to properly heat shield would require a physical barrier and an air gap. That's if heat is the problem, or at least part of it. My powertrain is stock, so standard levels of vibrant and vibration management.

 

[jmn444]

I actually made a heat shield w/ air gap using this, and it still failed, but again I really believe my issues were battery related

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UPL61U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Lorne34]

One thing I've found is clear - there's magic in the assembly from the factory. A completely, untouched factory car will resist vibrations much better. Even following the service manual to the letter won't match it.

My assumption is because of the repeatability of the tooling, unmolested services (and threads) and clean environment. But even building an engine with all new parts in a clean garage is hard to match what the factory does. Part of the reason I always recommend not touching the powertrain in this car.

Ford engineer knew from the start that creating at 5.2L FPC was going to take some serious dampening. It's one of those cars you want to keep stock as much as possible.

 

[km1075]

I just killed my fifth starter in 6 years on my 350R. I generally open the hood between track sessions but starters are dying faster and faster. The original one lasted 2.5 years, and then generally 1yr after that, but I just had one replaced two weeks ago and after four track sessions it’s completely dead and won’t start the car (even next day when completely cold). I have an extended warranty and dealer has always been helpful about it, but told them to please do something to shield it from the header heat this time. Any other suggestions?

To be replaced under warranty does the starter need to be all the way dead or just clearly headed in that direction? Thank you.

 

[markhas]

Interesting dialogue. I just killed my first alternator, one track event after killing my first starter. I learned that the internals on the starter are the same as those on the Ford V10 engine. The case is different because of the extra bracket in the middle of the starter. I replaced my Ford Starter NOT under warranty ($350+) and kept the core so that I can have a fresh one for every track event. I plan to do the same with the alternator.
2016 GT350 Track pack, 22k miles

 

[Cory S]

You could try using thin Teflon shims (around .010-.020”) at the mating surface of the starter. This will add some surface to surface isolation while still allowing a solid mounting position.

 

[MikeR397]

To be replaced under warranty does the starter need to be all the way dead or just clearly headed in that direction? Thank you.

Good question. 3 of my starters have been totally dead, zero attempt to start the car. 2 of my starters have generally worked when cold but even a drive to the supermarket would not start the car in the parking lot. When they are weak you can hear some clicking and struggle to crank the engine. I’ve generally worked with the same one or two people at my dealers service center (where I bought the car too) and have never gotten any issues on any replacement (although it can take a week for approval).

I’d suggest a video of when it’s not starting to show them might help. You can always bump start the car but it’s pretty big deal otherwise to be unable to start (towing ext).

now, my muffler intervals are failing with a strange exhaust note that happens after each shift and sadly muffler is a wear item not covered by warranty. New is $5k for a pair, but used is closer to $500 which I’ll do. The noise isnt that bad for now, maybe I’ll deal with in the spring.

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