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3.7 Forced induction

USMCtoARMY

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I already rebuilt them myself with the CRP kit.
Talking about the 59mm upgrade...but im just being cheeky. How do the turbos feel with the CRP upgrades in the high end of the RPM band?
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Patrick

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Talking about the 59mm upgrade...but im just being cheeky. How do the turbos feel with the CRP upgrades in the high end of the RPM band?
Well, they seem to make the most power around 4500, but I'm still along way off with my tune. The extra torque messes with the ecu and it starts closing the throttle. Without a dyno it's a long process. I also make very small changes each time so it's probably taking me a lot longer than an experienced person it's fun for me though learning.

I also still have a pretty restricted exhaust so that makes a difference I'm sure especially at the highest rpms
 

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Yeah it will be awhile before you see if it makes a difference then. 4500rpm is really where the stock setup shines. I think its cool as hell you learning this on your own. Yes, a dyno would really help right lol!
 

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Yeah it will be awhile before you see if it makes a difference then. 4500rpm is really where the stock setup shines. I think its cool as hell you learning this on your own. Yes, a dyno would really help right lol!
Remember I'm road tuning lol. 100mph comes up quickly even in 4th. Also to make boost you need load on the engine and I have 3.73s. The engine never really gets much load in 4th gear.
 

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True true. I have 3.73s and I am looking forward to seeing how it pairs with my TT kit as well.
 

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Yeah it will be awhile before you see if it makes a difference then. 4500rpm is really where the stock setup shines. I think its cool as hell you learning this on your own. Yes, a dyno would really help right lol!
Really not exaggerating when I say our ecu is one of the most complicated to tune. There are so many "nannies" you have to adjust. You figure out why the spark is getting cut, fix it, then the throttle starts getting cut by a completely different source. Hardly anyone on the HPT forums tunes 3.7s so there's not much to go on, and the ecu is just different enough from the coyote to be frustrating. HPT also hasn't been supporting Fords in general for a very long time. I've heard that SCT software has more mapped parameters because they've been doing Fords forever. That would probably make it easier, but I really hate their business model. HPT support has added some parameters for me, just takes them a couple weeks and you have to know the location of the table and be aware of it's existence in the first place.
 

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Bro, i wouldn't want to touch that with a 10ft pole...more power to you!
 

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True true. I have 3.73s and I am looking forward to seeing how it pairs with my TT kit as well.
I may have already asked you this, because I ask everyone who says they have 3.73s, do you have a torsin diff? My diff clunks like crazy and I've read that it's normal for the Torsin, but man it really clunks.
 

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Yes i got the loaded 3.73 from a shelby auction. Honestly couldnt tell the difference in noise but when I upgraded the diff i also did the full fluid swap with a boomba short throe, poly energy bushings, and steeda clutch spring. Now I also have the Boogie Racing Shifter mount (havent installed it since I bought it when while I am here in Germany). Solid, notchy, short, and precise shifts. Feels great and cleaned up a lot of the stock issues. Do you have a manual?

Oh , and I just picked up a stage 2 clutch kit, billet steel flywheel, and GT350 half shafts. Can't wait for that pairing either.
 

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BTW, here is the quick rundown of my custom Quick Spool TT Kit:

Twin TD06 20g Turbos
304ss Turbo Exhaust Manifolds (coated)
2.5" Downpipes w/ transition to 3" Full Exhaust
Race Spec FMIC
TiAL BOV 50mm
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Fuel Injectors
DW400 In-Tank Fuel Pump

Transmission Upgrades:

3.73 IRS pumpkin w/torsin diff
SPEC Stage 2 Clutch Kit
Billet Steel Flywheel
GT350 Half Shafts
Steeda Differential Bushing Inserts

I'll post the rest of everything else in build thread whenever I decide to start it once I get home to the states, lol.
 
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Yes i got the loaded 3.73 from a shelby auction. Honestly couldnt tell the difference in noise but when I upgraded the diff i also did the full fluid swap with a boomba short throe, poly energy bushings, and steeda clutch spring. Now I also have the Boogie Racing Shifter mount (havent installed it since I bought it when while I am here in Germany). Solid, notchy, short, and precise shifts. Feels great and cleaned up a lot of the stock issues. Do you have a manual?

Oh , and I just picked up a stage 2 clutch kit, billet steel flywheel, and GT350 half shafts. Can't wait for that pairing either.
Yeah I'm manual. I bought a loaded gt350 pumpkin. I did the black steeda bushings. I also have a blowfish racing shifter mount and the steeda trans mount bushing. I had to switch the pinion flange because it was set up for an automatic. I'm worried I did it wrong. The clunk feels like slop in the gears. You can rotate the driveshaft by hand and feel the slop. I've read a lot of forum posts of people complaining that their torsin diff clunks, so I'm not sure if it's normal or not.
 

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Yeah I'm manual. I bought a loaded gt350 pumpkin. I did the black steeda bushings. I also have a blowfish racing shifter mount and the steeda trans mount bushing. I had to switch the pinion flange because it was set up for an automatic. I'm worried I did it wrong. The clunk feels like slop in the gears. You can rotate the driveshaft by hand and feel the slop. I've read a lot of forum posts of people complaining that their torsin diff clunks, so I'm not sure if it's normal or not.
Interesting. I'd have to hear it and see it to understand what you mean. The "slop" is something that is always part of the MT-82 as i3m sure you know. You're saying its noticeably worse after the switch?
 

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Interesting. I'd have to hear it and see it to understand what you mean. The "slop" is something that is always part of the MT-82 as i3m sure you know. You're saying its noticeably worse after the switch?
No the slop I'm talking about is in the diff. You can rotate the driveshaft by hand a few degrees before the pinion gear interacts with the ring. So every time you go from forward to reverse you get a clunk.
 

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Oh, oh, okay now I get it!!! Im such a visual person dude lol. Yes that sounds like a bad install.
 

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Oh, but back to your IC question. I meant to follow up on it. While you're tuning and getting the hang of it from that end of things you IC will be fine based on your current setup and numbers, but once you start going hard into your numbers and upping the boost you are probably going to have to do an upgrade to IC. Its still a stock unit and can only handle so much especially once you start pushing more boost. Need to get a reading on Charge Air Temps. Especially when you start soing extended periods of boost operation and CAT's go up and then engine pulls timing and then you lose power.
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