3.7 Forced induction

[cobo10201]

Here is what I did.

View attachment 423885

Thank you so much. Going to try this as soon as I get back to the car.

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[Patrick]

You can hook it up like Patrick did, I did it the exact same way back in 2015 on my single turbo kit.
For the twin kit I installed a vacuum block to make easier for additonal boost reference points in the future if needed (meth injection, electronic boost controller, etc.).

This seems to be what procharger does also. This is what they hook there pressure release valve up to.

 

[cobo10201]

Well I think you all have answered my question. Looks like we left a vacuum line completely open thinking it was a vent hose. I definitely feel like a fool.

 

[Patrick]

Well I think you all have answered my question. Looks like we left a vacuum line completely open thinking it was a vent hose. I definitely feel like a fool.

Would love to know what the purpose of that line is. Seems like with the throttle shut it lets air into the manifold. Maybe for idle? Why run it all the way back to the brake booster? Seriously can not for the life of me figure out why it's there in the first place.

 

[cobo10201]

Would love to know what the purpose of that line is. Seems like with the throttle shut it lets air into the manifold. Maybe for idle? Why run it all the way back to the brake booster? Seriously can not for the life of me figure out why it's there in the first place.

Same, we assumed it was some sort of vent that opened when letting off the throttle or something along those lines. Especially because it dumps into the air box before the throttle body and not after.

 

[Patrick]

Realized I never posted any pictures of my completed setup.

 

[cobo10201]

Realized I never posted any pictures of my completed setup.

It looks awesome!

 

[cobo10201]

Hey guys, new question (and sorry if it’s been asked/answered, I’ve searched for 2 days and couldn’t find anything). The vacuum leak is fixed and they car is driving pretty good on the 3rd version of the tune from MPT. We are at the WOT section of the data logging process and I’ve run into a snag.

As I’m sure most of y’all know, the safe boost for the EcoBoost twin turbo setup is 8-10 psi. Well after hitting 14+ psi at 3k RPMs, I stopped, and adjusted the wastegates as far as I could without making the actual valve loose (to be clear, I threaded the nuts almost all of the way DOWN the shaft, pushing the rod INTO the part of the wastegate that connects to vacuum). I don’t think this was the wrong direction, because there is noticeably less boost during normal driving and at the lower range of RPMs. Unfortunately I’m still hitting about 14-15 psi during the WOT runs once I get to the 4-5k range. I’ve stopped and reached out to MPT, but I’m wondering if anyone here has any suggestions.

I have triple checked that my boost tee is set to the minimum value as well.

 

[cobo10201]

I’m currently tuning with MPT also, as a matter of fact pretty much finished besides sending a data log for new down pipes after they are installed to make sure nothing major changes in the tune.

Which turbos and wastegates are you using?

I’m using 13 F150 turbos (upgraded), with turbosmart 5 psi wastegates preloaded with a hand held mighty vac to 8 psi.

Where are you sourcing the wastegate pressure line from?

I drilled and tapped my compressor outlet and sourced my wastegate lines from each turbo compressor housing. I don’t run a boost controller, just 8 psi wastegate pressure.

At wot my pressure holds 8 psi to redline, and 0 to vacuum at cruise.

I would highly suggest getting the hand held might vac that does both vacuum and pressure (yes there is a vacuum only model). This way you can apply pressure to the wastegate actuator precisely to make sure that both wastegates are set and working properly at same psi.

I’m using ‘13 F-150 turbos as well. I did not upgrade them and I’m using the stock wastegates. I drilled and tapped one compressor housing and ran a line to a TurboSmart boost tee (currently set to minimum setting). From the boost tee I used a t-piece and ran a line to each wastegate.

You've given me an idea though: what if I take the boost controller out of the equation but leave the t-piece and set each wastegate to 4 psi? Unless I’m misunderstanding how wastegates work, that way when the boost builds to 8 psi it gets divided at the t-piece to 4 psi each.

 

[Patrick]

Hey guys, new question (and sorry if it’s been asked/answered, I’ve searched for 2 days and couldn’t find anything). The vacuum leak is fixed and they car is driving pretty good on the 3rd version of the tune from MPT. We are at the WOT section of the data logging process and I’ve run into a snag.

As I’m sure most of y’all know, the safe boost for the EcoBoost twin turbo setup is 8-10 psi. Well after hitting 14+ psi at 3k RPMs, I stopped, and adjusted the wastegates as far as I could without making the actual valve loose (to be clear, I threaded the nuts almost all of the way DOWN the shaft, pushing the rod INTO the part of the wastegate that connects to vacuum). I don’t think this was the wrong direction, because there is noticeably less boost during normal driving and at the lower range of RPMs. Unfortunately I’m still hitting about 14-15 psi during the WOT runs once I get to the 4-5k range. I’ve stopped and reached out to MPT, but I’m wondering if anyone here has any suggestions.

I have triple checked that my boost tee is set to the minimum value as well.

Are you using stock f150 wastegates? I don't think adjusting the nuts on the wastegate will help. Those should be adjusted until the valve is shut and then a turn or so for preload. If you are using a manual boost control some have a little spring and ball valve that will blead some boost even when the dial is set all the way down. You can unscrew the fitting and remove the spring to stop it from happening. Keep your boost reference lines as short as possible.

 

[cobo10201]

Are you using stock f150 wastegates? I don't think adjusting the nuts on the wastegate will help. Those should be adjusted until the valve is shut and then a turn or so for preload. If you are using a manual boost control some have a little spring and ball valve that will blead some boost even when the dial is set all the way down. You can unscrew the fitting and remove the spring to stop it from happening. Keep your boost reference lines as short as possible.

Yes, I’m using the stock wastegates. Adjusting the nuts definitely had an effect on the boost pressure. MPT and Tom from Super Six were the ones who suggested adjusting the nuts. Prior to adjustment I was making 14 psi at about 2.5k RPM. After adjustment I haven’t made 14 until about 4-5k.

 

[Patrick]

Yes, I’m using the stock wastegates. Adjusting the nuts definitely had an effect on the boost pressure. MPT and Tom from Super Six were the ones who suggested adjusting the nuts. Prior to adjustment I was making 14 psi at about 2.5k RPM. After adjustment I haven’t made 14 until about 4-5k.

You said your using a boost T. Is it a turbosmart? If so check out this link.

https://www.turbosmart.com/news/manual-boost-controller-tech-tip/

 

[cobo10201]

You said your using a boost T. Is it a turbosmart? If so check out this link.

https://www.turbosmart.com/news/manual-boost-controller-tech-tip/

I will try this on my lunch break today. Thanks for that. I knew you could remove it, didn’t realize it adds 5-7 psi

 

[Patrick]

I will try this on my lunch break today. Thanks for that. I knew you could remove it, didn’t realize it adds 5-7 psi

I upgraded to turbo smart wastegates and replaced my 5 lb Springs with 3 lb springs and removed the spring and ball from my Boost t and I'm still making about 6 lb on the lowest setting

 

[cobo10201]

I upgraded to turbo smart wastegates and replaced my 5 lb Springs with 3 lb springs and removed the spring and ball from my Boost t and I'm still making about 6 lb on the lowest setting

Any idea if the TurboSmart wastegates fit on the 2013 turbos? Everywhere I’m seeing says they only fit on 2011-12 F-150s.

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