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The number of miles isn't as important as the number of cycles. If you Google around you can find the exact amount needed. It's like so many cold starts, so many miles below 40mph, so many above, so many minutes at idle... it's a pain in the ass.

Would have been nice if it was in the instructions. They tell you to grind the lip off the back of the head, but completely fail to mention that bracket. It's not easy to see I had to stick my phone down there and snap those pictures just to tell what was going on. It didn't start leaking on me...

Yea, the 30-70 is what they sell at all the gas stations around here for like $1.50/gallon. I made up a mix with Heet and tried it. For what I'm doing it's overkill, but always an option .I also switched in a #1 nozzle, it was just way too much with the #3. Now as soon as I hit 3psi my IATs...

Looks sick! Couple of things I think are worth mentioning, I had a manifold leak for a long time and I finally got around to fixing it well it turned out that the super six adapter on the passenger side was not sitting flush due to a bolt on the head. It was hard to see because of how the...

Very nice! I just used the washer bottle for both, if it goes to quickly I might add another tank later. It would probably have to go in the trunk, I couldn't find any room under the hood for it, mainly because it has to be mounted higher than the pump. The pump does NOT self prime.

Yea everything to do with airflow is calculated. The other issue I had is that I bought DW 65lb injectors assuming they have the data available but they don't for Ford only for GM. I spent months dialing them in. I did get them very close, but another item I'm currently installing is a fuel...

S550's don't have a maf sensor to log from unfortunately. They use a 100% SD strategy. I'm actually self tuning (attempting to anyway) and it's proven tough as not very much info is out there on SD only fords and those who do seem to know don't want to tell you.

I was thinking of going that route also, but after looking into it, it would be hard to beat that price even piecing it together and just the convenience of the kit is worth whatever savings to me. Really the kit came with everything needed, I just bought a couple of extra fittings and a filter...

This is the kit I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303540566871 I plumbed it into the washer bottle, I'm just finishing up the wiring. I also ordered an inline filter straight from snow for $19.

I'm in the process of installing a kit right now. I got a boost activated kit from snow for about $250.

You asked what the "t" was, it's where the line splits into 2 for the wastegates

Only one of his turbo compressors is tapped for a reference, he's splitting that between the two wastegates. It's the way turbosmart's directions say to do it. The 2011 turbos I used have a factory tap on both of them so I used both.

Not necessarily, he could have a boost leak in the lines, or his reference might not be accurate. He says the actuators are working when he manually applies pressure to them so there should be no reason why they don't work under normal boost pressure. If it's an exhaust issue then new wastegates...

Cool hope that's the problem! Not familiar with the sct, just want to make sure it's reading actual boost (above ambient) and not gauge pressure.

I don't see why. Their advantage is holding higher boost and maybe speed but that's not the issue you're having. How are you measuring boost btw?

I agree that it doesn't make much sense, if they open with the mityvac then they should open with regular boost. Seems like the actuators aren't seeing the boost. Did you use all the actual lines and t fitting when you set the crack pressure to make sure there isn't a pin hole or some other...

Take the boost t out and test if it is the problem or not. Run a direct line from the housing to the wastegates as short as possible. If you still have the problem then the boost t is not the cause.

Idk honestly, I had to modify the brackets to get them to fit on my 2011s. Send them an email and ask.