2020+ Shelby GT500 Resonator Delete H-Pipe | Product Feature

[Evolvd]

Hopefully @JakeLethal or one of the other guys will chime in with any tips or tricks. This sounds like the same issue people had with the X pipe.

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[Tom@Lethal]

When I tighten them up the rear section of the exhaust is still loose. And when the car is running, I can feel the exhaust leaks around the clamps. I had this issue with the Shifteck system also. I eventually had to go to the wide clamps, similar to the factory ones on the front of the mid pipes. I was trying to avoid that here, so I don't have to undo the tack welds on the rear heat shields, which are in the way for fitment of the wider clamps. I will get back at it again later today.

could you post some pictures?

i didn’t have any issues with the install so curious to see where you’re running into issues

 

[Jmeo]

Got my undamaged H today

 

[Epiphany]

Very nice.

 

[mdmoore23]

could you post some pictures?

i didn’t have any issues with the install so curious to see where you’re running into issues

I tried everything with the provided clamps but couldn't get them to seal. I even switched to the big 1/2" Milwaukee impact and literally deformed the washer and there was still a leak when i started the car. I ultimately used some of the wide butt joint type clamps that I had laying around. That did the trick but caused me to have to modify the rear heat shields. No big deal. Hopefully the picture helps. I have more pics, if necessary.

 

[Tom@Lethal]

I tried everything with the provided clamps but couldn't get them to seal. I even switched to the big 1/2" Milwaukee impact and literally deformed the washer and there was still a leak when i started the car. I ultimately used some of the wide butt joint type clamps that I had laying around. That did the trick but caused me to have to modify the rear heat shields. No big deal. Hopefully the picture helps. I have more pics, if necessary.

hmm that’s very interesting

 

[mdmoore23]

hmm that’s very interesting

I tried to upload a short clip, but it didn't go through. After I had the clamps fully tightened, I was still able to go to the rear and route the tips from side to side. Here's a picture of the type of clamp I ended up using.

 

[Tonymustang302]

hmm that’s very interesting

bro you guys have to use better clamps. At their very tightest, my mufflers still moved up and down. I had to have them tack welded.

 

[Epiphany]

There is a bending/twisting moment in effect because the mufflers are way outside the centerline where the pipes are clamped after cutting. The mufflers want to swing down from the leverage they impart, especially with some jouncing from on road use, and they rotate. The friction in the clamp is overcome and will no longer lock the joint in place. As mentioned, few tacks serve well here. I welded mine completely and was able to ditch the clamps. The system ages and the look is slightly patina'd, giving it a nice, OEM appearance. I like that.

 

[marklboris]

Agree with the members above. Have the same issue with my X-Pipe (from Lethal) and it's been on the car for almost 2 years. I never did have it tack welded but am using wider clamps. Unfortunately I still get condensation that drips from those joints which produces black stains on my garage floor. I'm going to be purchasing this H-Pipe for the deeper sound and will have it welded completely to eliminate the movement and condensation drip.

 

[kilobravo]

Good to see ya, Mark and roger on the pipe decision. I'm one of those who prefers the higher tone and raspiness (sp?) of the X. After all, it's only 289-size. <smile> But, do hope it sounds the way you want Mark and more importantly, no more garage floor stains. <grin>

 

[Shelbeast]

Agree with the members above. Have the same issue with my X-Pipe (from Lethal) and it's been on the car for almost 2 years. I never did have it tack welded but am using wider clamps. Unfortunately I still get condensation that drips from those joints which produces black stains on my garage floor. I'm going to be purchasing this H-Pipe for the deeper sound and will have it welded completely to eliminate the movement and condensation drip.

Thanks for the info. I always wondered why my 350 had the black stuff leaking. 500 is good with the X pipe 2 years now. Ordered the H and make sure it's on point with welding.

 

[Jmeo]

Almost ready..... just waiting for Tob @Epiphany to stack some dimes for me. I got supper on the stove, and drinks in the fridge. Just let me know when your'e on you way little buddy.

As this was always intended to be a permanent installation for me, I cut the clamp ends off the rear of the H pipe to allow me the the space needed in front of the tac-welded heat shields to weld the pipes together. I have also figured out how to re-install the un-cut X pipe heat shield on this pipe exactly as it was positioned from the factory, which makes my OCD happy.

The hardest part is making sure the angle of the dangle is just where you want it.

I know my install isn't really going to help anyone else (unless your OCD is as bad as mine) as far as the normal install procedure, but no matter what way you end up installing it, the sound will be the same. I modified the Lethal H for no other reason than to keep my exhaust system a true one-piece setup (seems I drop it fairly often....) with the heat shield installed where it was intended to be from the factory. You will not have to do this to install yours, although you might choose to have it welded. All you have to do to get it welded, is install it as intended by Lethal, then drive to a shop of your choice and have them take one clamp off at a time and weld the pipes together.

Assuming Tob is a no call - no show, this is going to take a smidge longer than I wanted it too.

I really need to learn how to weld. It's always been a skill I wish I knew how to do. Welding and body/paint work is where I need to call in a lifeline, otherwise I am good.

Anywho, to be continued...

 

[Tom@Lethal]

Just a heads up everyone!!



We reached out to Stainless Works in regards to the Clamps and will look into it to see if there is something we can improve on or replace if necessary/moving forward. If anyone continues to have any issues to please give us a call at the shop (1.877.253.8425). Appreciate the feedback and allowing to hear the good and bad in hopes to get the best products out to you!.

Additionally,

SW did say the tq range for the clamp is 65 ft lbs

As always, thanks again for the support from you guys!!

 

[Jmeo]

Just a heads up everyone!!



We reached out to Stainless Works in regards to the Clamps and will look into it to see if there is something we can improve on or replace if necessary/moving forward. If anyone continues to have any issues to please give us a call at the shop (1.877.253.8425). Appreciate the feedback and allowing to hear the good and bad in hopes to get the best products out to you!.

Additionally,

SW did say the tq range for the clamp is 65 ft lbs

As always, thanks again for the support from you guys!!

Hi Tom, I am no expert, but in my experience (and opinion) the diameter at the rear of the pipe is slightly too large. The stock nubs slide in with some up and movement still available. I do not think the relief cuts are long enough to allow the H pipe to clamp down on the stock pipes. This is where some people are experiencing slippage and leakage. The 303 stainless is just too strong to compress around the smaller pipe. I would have elongated the relief cuts if I were going to use clamps, but I also feel the diameter is a smidge to big.

Disclaimer (again): I am NOT an expert, just ask my wife.

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