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2019 GT feels sluggish!

KJZ28

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My only experience with V8's had been with SBC and LSX before the Mustang. The 5.0 is so different from what I am use to. It is tame down low and blows me away after 4,000rpm. My 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 had so much power down low and such a steep first gear that there was no smoothly leaving from a stop, my head and other people's heads were always banging off the headrest. Then it would start feeling weak near the top of the rev range. I adore the 5.0 for its civility down low as this is my only car I own and it makes a great daily driver, like having two engines....normal driving and spirited driving. I have owned it over a week and I still am not used to shifting at such a high rpm....but it is sooooo much more fun that the LSX engines.
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RazzaRossa

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I'm going to go with the 4:09's, I think I'll have less issues (if any) with this ratio from what I've read. If there are work arounds with programming or tuning for the deeper ratios that won't throw codes, I may consider 4:55's. Anything deeper, I'd want to take a ride in a car equipped with them to see how it drives under all conditions.
 

Qcman17

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My only experience with V8's had been with SBC and LSX before the Mustang. The 5.0 is so different from what I am use to. It is tame down low and blows me away after 4,000rpm. My 2010 Camaro SS L99 A6 had so much power down low and such a steep first gear that there was no smoothly leaving from a stop, my head and other people's heads were always banging off the headrest. Then it would start feeling weak near the top of the rev range. I adore the 5.0 for its civility down low as this is my only car I own and it makes a great daily driver, like having two engines....normal driving and spirited driving. I have owned it over a week and I still am not used to shifting at such a high rpm....but it is sooooo much more fun that the LSX engines.
Hi same here previous car was a 2013 tuned L99. It was even more stout tuned and when I first got the GT I was convinced it felt slower than the L99. That is until I did some identical pulls where I used to play with the Camaro too and this car simply obliterated it.

I love the power delivery of this motor and the A10 trans is leaps and bounds better than the A6 was. I too am a converted Camaro fan and I will remain a Mustang fan!
 

KJZ28

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Hi same here previous car was a 2013 tuned L99. It was even more stout tuned and when I first got the GT I was convinced it felt slower than the L99. That is until I did some identical pulls where I used to play with the Camaro too and this car simply obliterated it.

I love the power delivery of this motor and the A10 trans is leaps and bounds better than the A6 was. I too am a converted Camaro fan and I will remain a Mustang fan!

It's amazing how the mustang masks the speed. What an amazing vehicle. I went from a tuned L99 A6 to a manual with the mustang. Maybe one day I'll get a ride in a A10 to see the difference.
 

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Qcman17

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It's amazing how the mustang masks the speed. What an amazing vehicle. I went from a tuned L99 A6 to a manual with the mustang. Maybe one day I'll get a ride in a A10 to see the difference.
Yes masks the speed is a perfect description. Once you look at the speedo you realize the car is really hauling despite how it might appear.
 

PoCoBob

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just like the way we can change the fuel economy settings in the "secret" dealer maintenance function.
Can someone explain what this is? Are you talking about how the car calculates fuel economy or actually changing how much fuel the car uses? And how is this done?
 

Garfy

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Can someone explain what this is? Are you talking about how the car calculates fuel economy or actually changing how much fuel the car uses? And how is this done?
Changing the AFE Bias only affects what the displayed mpg is for the car. It doesn't affect how much fuel the car uses. Basically, you're "fine tuning" the mpg calculator. The following is what I got from one of posts.

1. To get to the Engineering Test Mode.Begin with the ignition OFF and all doors closed.
Press and hold the steering wheel switch "OK" button.
While holding down the "OK" button, press the ignition button once. Do not press the clutch or brake pedals while doing this. Continue to hold the "OK" button for another 5-8 seconds until the dash displays a red "ET" at the bottom of the main message center display ( on an analog IPC). If you have a digital IPC, the "ET" will be in the rotating display on the lower right-hand side.

2. Be sure you have a sufficent sampling of fuel history logs to be able to be able to get a good idea of how far off the indicated is. I had over 18 months of fuel logs which included the hand calculated and the indicated mpg. You will need to get the average calculate mpg and the average indicated mpg.

• In the Engineering Test Mode scroll up or down using the left steering wheel controls (up or down). When you get to the AFE Bias screen you will see the number 1000.

• From what I have found this number represents the value of 1.000 and you can adjust it either higher by left arrow or lower by right arrow (left steering wheel control) by .001. Go right one click on the control the AFE Bias will show 999.

• To find out what number to input to the AFE Bias take your average calculated mpg and divide it by the average indicated mpg. In my case I had 17.64 calculated and 18.65 indicated which equals .945927 or rounded to .946. Using the right control button I changed my AFE Bias to 946. if your average calculated is higher than the average indicated you would get a number higher than 1. After 2 tanks of gas the indicate has been spot on for tank 1 and off by .1 for tank 2.

There are other functions in this engineering mode but I didn't see anything that seemed to be able to alter that MPH indication if you changed tire sizes. That's what I was looking for so I don't have to mentally keep track of how far off the speedometer is from actual speed if I significantly altered my tire sizes.
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