2018 whipple

[mustangflanagan]

It happened 2 times this week.. car goes into limp mode, I forget the code but says throttlebody actuator out of range. Any suggestions had it on car 60k miles now its doing this.

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[Andy13186]

I had p2112 code and this is how I fixed it :


"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging. "

 

[mustangflanagan]

I had p2112 code and this is how I fixed it :


"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging. "

U got a pic of where these screws are? Also did u adjust it while the car is running?

 

[Andy13186]

U got a pic of where these screws are? Also did u adjust it while the car is running?

no you have to turn it off and restart it after adjusting. They are both on the throttle body

 

[engineermike]

I found that Whipple left the throttle rate of opening stock in the tune. Ford lowers this rate when they use larger blades because the actuator doesn’t have the torque to move them fast so you wind up with a mismatch of desired vs actual angle. The pcm has very little tolerance for the blade not being where it intends. Once I slowed down the max rate of opening, I never had the problem again.

 

[mustangflanagan]

I had p2112 code and this is how I fixed it :


"I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.

2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.

If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less. Then go try to replicate the issue again.


I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.

If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.


Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Screw it in until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging. "

What u use to turn locking and adjust screw? They are tiny

 

[Andy13186]

What u use to turn locking and adjust screw? They are tiny

Small hex wrench, I think its a 2.5mm or 2mm hex wrench

 

[mustangflanagan]

Small hex wrench, I think its a 2.5mm or 2mm hex wrench

I am gonna try use gasket maker. When applying it do u just put a beer on the outer edges or the entire mounting face?

 

[mustangflanagan]

 

[mustangflanagan]

That's code I am getting. I do a 40 min drive at night when it's Colder it's fine.coming back during day when it'd 90 plus degrees almost home I go in limp mode with code above.

 

[Andy13186]

Dont do gasket maker imo. Doesnt do shite

 

[mustangflanagan]

Dont do gasket maker imo. Doesnt do shite

So stick with the gasket that's on it?

 

[Andy13186]

So stick with the gasket that's on it?

IMO, Try what I recommended thats the only thing what worked for me. If I had to do it again id keep the gasket and try this method.

 

[mustangflanagan]

IMO, Try what I recommended thats the only thing what worked for me. If I had to do it again id keep the gasket and try this method.

I just hope the throttlebody isn't taking a dump lol

 

[Andy13186]

I just hope the throttlebody isn't taking a dump lol

What are you doing when you go into limp mode? How long have you had this throttle body?

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