Aaron1085
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2020
- Threads
- 7
- Messages
- 267
- Reaction score
- 86
- Location
- New Hampshire
- First Name
- Aaron
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Mustang GT - Whipple
How did you move the set screw?
Sponsored
Sponsored
Ellsworth122
Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2021
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- California
- First Name
- Tim
- Vehicle(s)
- 18 Mustang gt
There is a little Alan set screw on the top and a locking screw on the side
Andy13186
Well-Known Member
Im getting this code too, Ill look at the gasket, but if I dont think thats the problem then I suppose I will try adjusting the throttle body. Anyone have any more insight on this issue?
Edit* I found a guy on reddit with this issue and he says he fixed it by torqueing the throttle body to 88 inch lbs like it says in the manual. Ill try this but mine may already be torqued properly.
Edit* I found a guy on reddit with this issue and he says he fixed it by torqueing the throttle body to 88 inch lbs like it says in the manual. Ill try this but mine may already be torqued properly.
Last edited:
Supersolo
Well-Known Member
I replaced the gasket with the RTV silicone sealant, since when I have not had the issue again.
However, my Stage 2 Whiple was installed by a garage and while removing the TB I noticed the four bolts did not seem to be evenly torqued-up.
I have torqued all four bolts, in an 'X' pattern, to 10Nm.
No issues, so far...
However, my Stage 2 Whiple was installed by a garage and while removing the TB I noticed the four bolts did not seem to be evenly torqued-up.
I have torqued all four bolts, in an 'X' pattern, to 10Nm.
No issues, so far...
Andy13186
Well-Known Member
I tried torqueing my TB down , still have the problem. Guess I will have to try the voltage adjustment or set screws.
Can you give some more details on how you adjusted the set screw? I see them but I dont know how to adjust it or what it moves, and I cant find any information from whipple on the set screws. I did find information on the voltage adjustment but I havent tried that yet.
Sponsored
Andy13186
Well-Known Member
I think I got this throttle body issue fixed on my car, not by doing the gasket maker because that did not work for me and yes I tried it and had the code about 10 times after that. The gasket maker is still on my throttle body though.
2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.
If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less and re-tighten the set screw. Then go try to replicate the issue again.
I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.
If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.
Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Turn off the car and screw it in, then restart the car and do this until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging.
Also if you go too far inward you may have rev hang problems I think.
2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.
If you do get the issue again obviously you will have to pull over and restart your car, while you are pulled over loosen the set screw again then tighten the adjustment screw another 1/8th of a turn or less and re-tighten the set screw. Then go try to replicate the issue again.
I had to adjust mine about 4 times but now I havent got the p2119 code to come back for a few days and I have been trying to have it happen pretty hard. I literally did about 100+ rolling burnouts last weekend adjusting the screw and trying to get the code to happen - this was pretty insane and seemed abusive but just keep the car cool enough , drive for a few mins between attempts, dont hit the limiter, try not to have the advancetrac kick in, do it in a safe place where you can pull over safely, etc.
If you want, you can fully disable advancetrac, but I dont like doing that because I hit a pole at 45 mph 3 years ago ripping a burnout and totaled my CTS-V. I found the best setting to not have advancetrac kick in is track mode with TCS off. Track mode displays TCS off by default in this mode but it is not off. Try it, put your car into track mode and the traction control light will light up by default, but then if you hit the TCS off switch the car will say "traction control off". This mode seems to give advancetrac a ton of lee-way and it wont kick in easily at all if you stay straight enough. My tires arent too happy though lol they were needing replacement anyway soon.
Also If you go outward on the set screw you will have idle surge issues. So if you get idle surge issues you probably went the wrong way. Turn off the car and screw it in, then restart the car and do this until you dont have surging -or just never unscrew the adjustment screw from how yours came if its not surging.
Also if you go too far inward you may have rev hang problems I think.
Last edited:
mauiwilliams
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2021
- Threads
- 0
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Santa Monica
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Mustang GT
I just did what Andy said here and after two adjustments it seems my car is not doing it anymore. So glad at first I thought I had blown my brandnew motor. Now it seems to all be addressed.
2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.
2018+ cant do any electronic voltage adjustments with the throttle body according to the Whipple tech I was talking to. What I had to do was loosen the set screw which is on the throttle body facing toward the motor, then screw the adjustment screw that is on top of the throttle body inward like 1/8th of a turn then tighten the set screw. Then test to see if you get the issue again. Easiest way for me to replicate it was to just break the tires loose hard in first or 2nd gear, sometimes when hitting 3rd gear too.
Andy13186
Well-Known Member
Glad I could help someone ^
I thought I blew my motor at first too and that shit made my entire soul sink, but since I had already had so many problems NA I knew about limp mode and tried clearing the code and restarting. Then I went researching and experimenting and eventually called whipple and they said to try this and then send the TB back if it didnt work. It didnt work the first time, or second time, or 3rd time and I hit limp mode like 30-40 times in total but about 5 times after I started adjusting the tb screw. I decided to keep trying and finding out what would happen. Eventually I could no longer replicate the problem and I still havent had this problem again so I am nearly 100% sure this is the fix.
Even shelby american cars have this problem which is an absolute disgrace. Still love my whipple though.
Last edited:
engineermike
Well-Known Member
I believe I solved mine through tuning.
I’ve spent the last couple of weeks “fixing” some things around the way the throttle blade is controlled and happened onto what I think is the issue. The throttle blade is on at least 2 PID feedback control loops. One is measuring actual vs commanded angle and the other is actual vs commanded airflow. As with any feedback loop, error is constantly being measured and corrected. And if you’re coding the diagnostics in the pcm, then too much error or for too long should trigger a DTC and send it into limp mode.
So Whipple attached a big heavy oval throttle blade to the stock actuator. So what do you think would happen to the rate the stock actuator can open the heavier blade? It slows down, which generates more error in the throttle angle feedback loop. If the error exceeds the threshold, the DTC is triggered.
So why does the gasket maker trick work sometimes? My guess is that the soft gasket with 4-corner bolting is causing the throttle body housing to deflect slightly, adding a tiny bit of drag to the shaft bearings. Losing the gasket reduces this deflection and allows the shaft to move with less resistance.
I was looking at other issues in the tune and noticed they retained the stock throttle rate limit of 920 deg/second. For reference, the gt500, with its bigger heavier blade, has a rate limit of 841 deg/sec. I plugged in 720 as a test and the issue appears to be solved. If it attempts to open the throttle at a slower rate, then the stock actuator has no problem meeting demand. The difference we’re talking about is 125 vs 100 milliseconds to wot.
I’ve spent the last couple of weeks “fixing” some things around the way the throttle blade is controlled and happened onto what I think is the issue. The throttle blade is on at least 2 PID feedback control loops. One is measuring actual vs commanded angle and the other is actual vs commanded airflow. As with any feedback loop, error is constantly being measured and corrected. And if you’re coding the diagnostics in the pcm, then too much error or for too long should trigger a DTC and send it into limp mode.
So Whipple attached a big heavy oval throttle blade to the stock actuator. So what do you think would happen to the rate the stock actuator can open the heavier blade? It slows down, which generates more error in the throttle angle feedback loop. If the error exceeds the threshold, the DTC is triggered.
So why does the gasket maker trick work sometimes? My guess is that the soft gasket with 4-corner bolting is causing the throttle body housing to deflect slightly, adding a tiny bit of drag to the shaft bearings. Losing the gasket reduces this deflection and allows the shaft to move with less resistance.
I was looking at other issues in the tune and noticed they retained the stock throttle rate limit of 920 deg/second. For reference, the gt500, with its bigger heavier blade, has a rate limit of 841 deg/sec. I plugged in 720 as a test and the issue appears to be solved. If it attempts to open the throttle at a slower rate, then the stock actuator has no problem meeting demand. The difference we’re talking about is 125 vs 100 milliseconds to wot.
Aaron1085
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2020
- Threads
- 7
- Messages
- 267
- Reaction score
- 86
- Location
- New Hampshire
- First Name
- Aaron
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Mustang GT - Whipple
Wow, that’s DEEP. You sir are quite the engineer.
In theory, Whipple could make this a ECU upgrade and we could change/tweak the tuning via the OBDII port right? So, you didn’t touch the screws and throttle body adjustment, pure tuning of slowing the movement of the throttle blade?
In theory, Whipple could make this a ECU upgrade and we could change/tweak the tuning via the OBDII port right? So, you didn’t touch the screws and throttle body adjustment, pure tuning of slowing the movement of the throttle blade?
Sponsored
engineermike
Well-Known Member
In my opinion, this change should be part of the Whipple tune.
Correct, I didn’t touch the screws or remove the gasket. I will be testing it more, but the error was repeatable on my car but so far after 6-8 “zombie stomps” in 2nd and 3rd gear, I haven’t had the DTC.
Vert
Well-Known Member
Good work. I'm glad someone is figuring it out but weird how ot is so random and maybe that's the reasoning why whipple hasn't figured out a fix or put much effort into it.
engineermike
Well-Known Member
@Vert I think it just marginal, right on the borderline of working. So some cars have it and some don’t just depending on the production tolerances, tb gasket, tb bolt torque, set screw adjustment, tps calibration, etc. By lowering the throttle rate I gave it 25% more time to reach the desired angle, so there should be some safety factor as well. The gt500 only needed 10% more time with its throttle body.
Sponsored