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2018 GT Header Install

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gqneon

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So i pulled a few of the bottom studs and was able to get the new header up in place pretty quick. Then i realized that the hardware kit that Pypes headers part HDR79SK-2 (2018 Mustang GT) comes with header to cylinder head bolts that are a different thread pitch. I called Pypes figuring they probably just need to send out a different hardware kit but the guy in tech simply said "no you just have to use the studs the car came with."

FWIW He said the header kit is the same as the 15-17 cars in the box its just labeled 2018 because the one O2 extension it comes with has a different connector type for the 18 model. The rest of the kit is the same as the last two years models; there is no hardware kit for the header bolts. He said there's supposed to be a note or something in the kit but... surprise! Oh well guess im waiting on ratcheting torx wrenches because my tools wont clear the new Pypes pipes to put the old studs in because theyre double the length of the header bolts in the kit i thought id be using. Shit.
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Yes, I had the same problem. I outlined this in my build thread. I had lots of problems. I added some pics and hints on how to get it done.

Just remain patient despite all of the frustration (easier said then done, i know)
 
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I found your build thread just now. Holy shit man. your build thread its giving me flashbacks to all the procharger problems i had before i simply said "enough" with that setup and moved on.

Hope you got it ironed out though. They make great power. It was everything else i grew to hate.

Still stuck with headers. This morning i got headers on passenger side on in one try with all top studs in and the fron bottom one too. Like nothing at all. But I have no way to thread in studs without a box wrench which will be tomorrow. Sick with frustration - how can Pypes sel a kit without hardware and extensions needed and call it year specific? Sorry you had trouble - i didnt get through all 200 posts - did they make it all right?

I feel like calling Terry and getting a different brand of headers and selling these to someone with a 15-17.
 
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turnswrench

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I found your build thread just now. Holy shit man. your build thread its giving me flashbacks to all the procharger problems i had before i simply said "enough" with that setup and moved on.

Hope you got it ironed out though. They make great power. It was everything else i grew to hate.

Still stuck with headers. This morning i got headers on passenger side on in one try with all top studs in and the fron bottom one too. Like nothing at all. But I have no way to thread in studs without a box wrench which will be tomorrow. Sick with frustration - how can Pypes sel a kit without hardware and extensions needed and call it year specific? Sorry you had trouble - i didnt get through all 200 posts - did they make it all right?

I feel like calling Terry and getting a different brand of headers and selling these to someone with a 15-17.
They still haven't sent me the correct length but daisy chaining them works which they did accommodate. I wouldn't recommend Pypes to a 2018 buyer and I passed that feedback out. In the end they will work, but it was a PITA
 

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You did end up using the stock studs right?

Im going to switch to pizza and bourbon for tonight and step back from the headaches and wait for the auggested E8 ratcheting wrench to get here before i aggravate myself further with these Pypes. They look nice and after all this i hope they sound terrific too.

I assembled and put my ATI balancer on in the interim - I start second guessing other things when things don't go the way theyre supposed to in sequence so tomorrow will be a fresh day.

I just want to drive it again before it snows here lol
 

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Yes, stock studs do make it back on. Bourbon is a good choice!
 

armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT

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Looks like it's a little more involved doing headers on 18+. I may just wait until I can afford turbos lol.
 
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Its probably not a whole lot different honestly - the AC line clearance on the passenger side is closer and Pypes as a company is kind of phoning it in on this "2018 kit" in my opinion but other than that its about the same. Had I known in advance there was no hardware and I'd have to reuse studs i could have had a ratcheting torx wrench handy but I just wasn't aware.

I texted Terry last night about Pypes and he said their headers are some of the easiest to install and the one O2 sensor extension will work out on a manual because you can stretch out the other side harness more. I'll see when i get that far. He mentioned that you only have to take out a few studs to do Pupes headers and that he usually lowers the subframe to do it. Hopefully amazon delivers the wrenches early today so i can get this show rolling.

Im sure when it fires up it will all be worth it; wish me luck.
 
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I bought an E8 ratchet box wrench to do my install. Made stud r&r easier. Would have been better if it was flex head.
Thanks for the ratcheting torx wrench idea. It took me 30 minutes once i had one so i could actually run down the studs i needed to take out. I owe you a beer for that one!

I got the passenger side back together and will knock out the driver side tomorrow when i get up - then its on to the whipple and some tuning. Then several months of miswest winter where i wish i could drive it lol
 

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Thanks for the ratcheting torx wrench idea. It took me 30 minutes once i had one so i could actually run down the studs i needed to take out. I owe you a beer for that one!

I got the passenger side back together and will knock out the driver side tomorrow when i get up - then its on to the whipple and some tuning. Then several months of miswest winter where i wish i could drive it lol
Glad it helped you. The passenger side was definitely more intense than the driver side. We dropped a stub length wrench down between the header tubes. Wedged itself just ahead of the collector. Used a very large zip tie, worming it between the pipes to slide it high enough to grab it outta there. We laughed about that one for a long time.
 
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Hahaha... I LITERALLY had a moment of pause as a small extension slipped and almost made it down the middle to the spike. After that everything was "two hands on" lol
 

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Do not use the pypes o2 extensions.. On my 15 They constantly failed I would have to unhook them and blow them out so they could pick up the signal.. They are trash.
 
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I
Do not use the pypes o2 extensions.. On my 15 They constantly failed I would have to unhook them and blow them out so they could pick up the signal.. They are trash.
haven't heard that anywhere yet - was it the seal on the connectors and stuff got inside or something? Interested in this feedback!
 

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I am assuming so because I routinely had to blow em out every couple thousand miles like 1-2k..At first I thought I was burning up the o2 sensor. After relaxing multiple times. I just blew out the extenders and bingo all good for awhile.
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