1st Oil Change / Drain Plug Options

[HoosierDaddy]

Congrats on the first change! And for not subjecting it to the potential risks of a 3rd party doing it.

I'm not understanding why the car needs to be so high (not that I really need to). Is it for obstacles to accessing the drain and filter on a GT350. I do my GT just on ramps. I know the GT350 is lower but not enough that ramps wouldn't work if my GT was as low. Sure higher would be more pleasant but just driving up ramps is so much faster and easier than jacking up the car. So I assume the extra height is needed because of the GT350 filter.

Regarding using those ramps as to catch the car if it falls: don't count on it. It is definitely not designed for impacts PLUS that particular model has many reviews on Amazon where it collapsed on first or after very few uses just driving up it with vehicles well below its rated limits. That made me look at it more closely and I feel what was done to let one ramp slip over the other to save space storing is clearly less strong as a design that does not have the internals gutted to allow the other ramp to fit inside. Then again, you don't really need to worry about the jack stands and the hydraulic jacks failing, so....

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[lightrules]

@HoosierDaddy , hey man. thx for chiming in. the ramps i have are too steep for my R to just drive up onto. so i need a jack to get things going. as for the safety of these ramps, i hear ya. i actually heard a bunch of crunching noises (!) while lowering the car onto one side earlier today. i was thinking, "what was that?!" so i am aware of their limitations. i just threw them under since better to have them than not! anyway i just needed more clearance my first time doing it, i wanted to see the oil drain plug clearly and also that darn filter location...maybe i will remove the driver's wheel next time (as some do).

so yeah i am hoping some 350/R owners chime in on how they do their oil changes etc. but again thx for commenting.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

You are in luck sir, I made a video on how to check your oil.


After 10 oil changes I just put 10 quarts in and it’s always perfect on the dipstick.

At the end of the day it’s a 25k car with a “handbuilt” motor.

Just change the oil, the only real differences from the 50+ other cars I’ve serviced are a plastic drain plug and to torque the oil filter.

 

[lightrules]

@xXANCHORMONXx , thanks man. good video. the new oil is so clean i was having a hard time seeing exactly where the oil level was, as you mention there is always a "smear" and that can mislead. i didnt really look on the other side though, so i'll take a look in the morning. i'll probably run the engine for a few minutes, then check it.

as for the filter, i didnt torque it per se but i set it to the OEM "yellow" line marker that was on the filter and the metal casing. it felt tight and firm though.

thanks for chiming in.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

@xXANCHORMONXx , thanks man. good video. the new oil is so clean i was having a hard time seeing exactly where the oil level was, as you mention there is always a "smear" and that can mislead. i didnt really look on the other side though, so i'll take a look in the morning. i'll probably run the engine for a few minutes, then check it.

as for the filter, i didnt torque it per se but i set it to the OEM "yellow" line marker that was on the filter and the metal casing. it felt tight and firm though.

thanks for chiming in.

You need to torque it. It’s the most important part of the oil change on this car.

 

[Tank]

Here's another take on changing the oil and filter with the cartridge..
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...hange-canister-oil-filter.83651/#post-1873414

Here's what the 2018 Supplemental Manual says about the filter:

CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER
1. Loosen the oil filter housing and allow the oil to drain.
2. Remove the oil filter housing and discard the oil filter element.
3. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
4. Wipe the O-ring seal surfaces and threads with a clean rag. Inspect the oil filter housing and stem for damage including cracks or separation of the stem from the housing. If damaged, you must install a new oil filter housing assembly. Also, make sure you remove all components of the oil filter from the housing and oil filter adapter.
(Some pics that didn't copy.)
1. Install new O-ring seals on the oil filter housing and lubricate with clean engine oil. Note: Failure to install new oil filter housing-to-engine oil filter adapter seals may result in oil leakage. Note: The smallest o-ring that comes with the filter is not used in this application.
2. Install a new oil filter element.
3. Install the oil filter housing. Torque to 16–19 lb.ft (22–26 Nm) using a torque wrench. (Emphasis added)

 

[SVTinAR]

When I let my engine fully drain, 10 quarts fill it up just a little shy of the upper hatch line after starting and letting it sit. So unless there has been some change in the pan or dip stick, I would not hesitate to dump all 10 quarts in at once. As a caveat, I do have the older throw away filter, so the new disposable element filter could have a slight difference in volume, but shouldn't be enough to matter.

Turing the front wheels to the left helps with access to the portal in the wheel well and that's the easiest access for the filter. Draining the filter can be messy. I use newspapers or aluminum foil to force up there to make sort of a funnel for the oil to drain out of the filter after loosening, past the cover. There is also a plastic, moldable funnel that can be purchased for this and is probably a good investment.

 

[Dominator961]

 

[galaxy]

Here’s another perspective a lot of guys tend to waaaayyyyy over analyze and get wrong, not only in this car, but any car....

...The correct oil level is not to the top hole, nor to the top of the hash marks, nor to any other location on the dipstick. The correct oil level is 10 quarts of oil. Period. Add the whole 10 quarts. Check YOUR dipstick (after cranking and circulating obviously) and wherever the oil level is on YOUR dipstick is full for YOUR CAR. If you put in 10 quarts and it’s only half way up the hash marks, that is the full point on YOUR car. Do not add oil to bring it up to the hole.

And also keep in mind when you (not you literally) analyze the difference between the hash marks and the top hole, your literally debating a few ounces of oil! A few ounces in a 2 1/2 gallon system. Think about that for a minute.

At the end of the day it’s a 25k car with a “handbuilt” motor.
.

With a whopping, record setting value of exactly $0.02, I hate that attitude with this car!

 

[lightrules]

yeah it's really about convenience. i've used fumotos on my other cars and it's so easy and much cleaner. again, the fumotos are around $20-$35 usually, depending on car, and over the life of the car, it just makes the experience a bit more pleasant. after doing this 1st change for my R, it was fairly easy but the fumoto (once they make it) or the ronin are just nice and clean and convenient. but i have a hard time paying $80+ for the ronin. will wait to see what fumoto does.

 

[TRS7139]

yeah it's really about convenience. i've used fumotos on my other cars and it's so easy and much cleaner. again, the fumotos are around $20-$35 usually, depending on car, and over the life of the car, it just makes the experience a bit more pleasant. after doing this 1st change for my R, it was fairly easy but the fumoto (once they make it) or the ronin are just nice and clean and convenient. but i have a hard time paying $80+ for the ronin. will wait to see what fumoto does.

90deg left..........90 deg right.
If you really want to go nuts,pull plug out 1/2 way while wearing a nitrile glove( approx $.15) until oil slows down.

 

[oldbmwfan]

Re. jacking it up. I'm sure there are a million threads on this but I have the Steeda rails on my car. I jack from the middle of the rail, put a forward jack stand (flat-top Esco stand) under the rail, and put a rear jack stand (same model) under the pinch weld in front of the rear tire. Jack the other side and do the same. I usually put the stands under at the lowest setting, then repeat and add height just for convenience. It is rock-solid like this. I usually do put an ancillary old-school cradle jack stand under a suspension mount just in case, but that's just paranoia talking. Can also leave the jack under whatever side rail you jacked up last for additional safety.

With the jacking rails this is the easiest modern car to get in the air. I have a lift a shop/storage space I rent, but I usually do my R oil changes and such at home so I'm on the jack & stands.

+1 on the stock drain plug being fine if not manhandled. I have not yet discovered why people think this car is so fragile for basic maintenance. I do use a form-a-funnel to get oil from the (spin-on) filter down to the pan without making a mess on the belly pan. That makes life a lot easier.

 

[TRS7139]

Re. jacking it up. I'm sure there are a million threads on this but I have the Steeda rails on my car. I jack from the middle of the rail, put a forward jack stand (flat-top Esco stand) under the rail, and put a rear jack stand (same model) under the pinch weld in front of the rear tire. Jack the other side and do the same. I usually put the stands under at the lowest setting, then repeat and add height just for convenience. It is rock-solid like this. I usually do put an ancillary old-school cradle jack stand under a suspension mount just in case, but that's just paranoia talking. Can also leave the jack under whatever side rail you jacked up last for additional safety.

With the jacking rails this is the easiest modern car to get in the air. I have a lift a shop/storage space I rent, but I usually do my R oil changes and such at home so I'm on the jack & stands.

+1 on the stock drain plug being fine if not manhandled. I have not yet discovered why people think this car is so fragile for basic maintenance. I do use a form-a-funnel to get oil from the (spin-on) filter down to the pan without making a mess on the belly pan. That makes life a lot easier.

+1

 

[HoosierDaddy]

90deg left..........90 deg right.
If you really want to go nuts,pull plug out 1/2 way while wearing a nitrile glove( approx $.15) until oil slows down.

The main point of a valve is that it allows all the oil to go thru a hose. No splash; no chasing a stream as it peters out, etc.. The things you allude to are of little value. Its also why I said Ronin is nuts for not emphasizing that and offering their own hose. The best screw in valves (Femco types) you can't even get one without the hose as a hose is an integral part of the drainer. Fumoto stresses the use of a hose and offers one.

 

[Dominator961]

Re. jacking it up. I'm sure there are a million threads on this but I have the Steeda rails on my car. I jack from the middle of the rail, put a forward jack stand (flat-top Esco stand) under the rail, and put a rear jack stand (same model) under the pinch weld in front of the rear tire. Jack the other side and do the same. I usually put the stands under at the lowest setting, then repeat and add height just for convenience. It is rock-solid like this. I usually do put an ancillary old-school cradle jack stand under a suspension mount just in case, but that's just paranoia talking. Can also leave the jack under whatever side rail you jacked up last for additional safety.

With the jacking rails this is the easiest modern car to get in the air. I have a lift a shop/storage space I rent, but I usually do my R oil changes and such at home so I'm on the jack & stands.

+1 on the stock drain plug being fine if not manhandled. I have not yet discovered why people think this car is so fragile for basic maintenance. I do use a form-a-funnel to get oil from the (spin-on) filter down to the pan without making a mess on the belly pan. That makes life a lot easier.

^5
Aluminum foil works great and covers more area.

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