1st oil change @ dealer-interesting convo. Warning: tick content

[SirRobin]

The short of it is that his tests don't simulate actual conditions inside an engine. Bobistheoilguy.com is full of very knowledgeable people and the ratblog is chastised when it's mentioned. Apparently dishwashing soap can score very high on the test, which says a lot about it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/540rat-blog.280231/

There's a lot of arguing but it does a good job pointing out most of the faults in the rat blog.

Did a search and it seems people like the QSFS so I made a good purchase anyway lol

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[Dfeeds]

Did a search and it seems people like the QSFS so I made a good purchase anyway lol

It's a good oil for sure, but the point was to not really rely on ratblog for anything. You can't really go wrong with any of the big names. It's the no name oils that lack any certifications that you want to stay clear away from. Some bad horror stories from the cheap gas station oils.

 

[barron64]

I currently have 39k miles on my 18 GT with the 5th oil change just a thousand miles or so away. Tick started on mine at around 3500mi on factory fill. Used Mobile 1 5w-30 for first couple of oil changes which made the tick worse at the beginning of each oil change. Ceratec got rid of 90% of the tick but… as the miles pile up, 5k+, on each oil change, the tick totally disappears. Tried Castrol Edge this past change and had similar results however engine is quieter initially. Also, oil consumption has dropped to 0. I have not had to add any oil in past 9k+ miles. Trying out Penzoil Ultra Platinum for upcoming change to see what
happens. I have used 1 bottle of Ceratec with all my oil changes btw.

Follow up… had about 9500 miles on current fill of Castrol Edge 5w-30, with one bottle of Ceratec. Tick has not been heard for a few months and no oil consumption during this time. Changed oil last night, Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30, pre-filled Motorcraft oil filter as always. The instant the car was started, the tick was back. Amazing. Oil brand or weight seem to make no difference in tick. Adding Ceratec obviously works but also adding up the miles on your current fill makes the tick go away.

 

[Ponyupnow]

Even though I’m old and of necessity still dodging COVID I decided to have my dealership change my oil today. Only had ~2300 miles but I’ve had my 2020 GT a year now so I was getting the nag screen message. Encountered 2 guys, one younger and one more senior looking but both seemed very knowledgeable and were polite. So here are some bullet points of the convo:

* When I asked about 5w20 vs. the 2021 recommendation of 5w30, the older guy (manager type) said all they have is 5w20 and they put it in ‘21s too. So no choice there. And this ain’t no rinky-dink dealership.

*I said my preference was full syn but that I had read that you stood a better chance of not developing the tick if you stuck with blend. Young guy says that some cars get the tick and some don’t but most do and there is no correlation to whether you put in full syn or blend. He preferred full syn and so do I so that’s what I went with.

* When older guy heard the “tick” word he looked up and said “it’s just air and it all started with the 2011 diesels”. He got busy again so I wasn’t able to ask him to elaborate.

* Perhaps most shocking of all, while they proactively assured me they put in 10 quarts their system would only allow them to bill me for 8 so I got a 2 quart discount. I’ll of course check it in the morning.

They had me out in about 45 minutes and I consider it to have been a really good experience.

The ticking is cause by the direct injection....have you ever heard a diesel?? They have the same sound...never trust the dealer as they will not fill the engine with the exact 10 qts. Actually it takes almost 10 and a half qts to fill once you have the filter on.
Run mobile on not motorcrap.

 

[Mastermind46]

I will not use mobil as it is the only oil that I have had poor test results with another one of my vehicles. Any of the other syns have been fine. It was actually common place to run Rotella T6 in Mazdaspeeds (prequal to the EB engines) due to shitty turbo seals. Talk about loud, ticky engines though.

 

[dman]

Don't wait until the next morning, check the oil before leaving the dealer.

if the engine has sat for awhile at the dealer...like all day?

 

[dman]

I recently did my first oil change at a little under 1500 miles. I put in Mobil 1 synthetic - 5qt 5W-20 and 5qt 5W-30 (minus 400ml) plus 1 bottle (400ml) LiquiMoly Cera Tec. No tick before or after change, and possibly slightly quieter overall after.

Next change will be in spring and will be all 5W-30.

some times, viscosities don't mix well...

 

[young at heart]

if the engine has sat for awhile at the dealer...like all day?

I hated to bring it up, but yeah, how you gonna check the oil when they just got done changing it?

 

[boB]

I hated to bring it up, but yeah, how you gonna check the oil when they just got done changing it?

The difference in oil level between hot and cold is theoretically less than 1/2 quart, in reality probably even less than that. The difference in level between sitting 5 minutes and all day is not significant. Ymmv...

 

[Garfy]

in Germany we did an oil analysis.
the Castrol oil from the factory is high in boron.
about 160.
the 5w20 Castrol from the store has a lot less at around 20.

Boron prevents ticking. it is, so to speak, a lubricant between the metals.
so the ticking starts after the 1st oil change. find an oil with a lot of boron.
in Europe, Total or Ravenol oils contain a lot of boron.


In addition, the 0W20 - 948B is older than the Coyote 3.
I will switch to a modern 5W30 - 961-A1 with a lot of boron.
I think that goes better with the coyote 3.

in germany, however, we also have other parameters.
for example an ottoparticle filter or
motorway without speed limit, so higher load on the engine.

I don't know what Ford uses in the U.S. but I did my oil analysis at just about a year old with only 2300 miles on it and the Boron reading was 119. My dealer used full synthetic oil and I have no "tick" issues at all. The lab analysis comments said that I didn't need to do the oil change yet as it was still fine (my oil life monitor said I had about 18% left). But, due to warranty issues, I'm not going to go more than a year between oil changes. Once I'm done with the "free" oil changes with the FordPass points, I'll be using my own full synthetic oil and see what kind of results I get from the lab. I'll be doing the oil analysis until my warranty is expired.

 

[jdsfly]

I just looked at my Blackstone report and the Boron levels were at 292. Thats for
Motorcraft 5/50. My Ram Cummins with Rotella t6 was at 145. On my Camry with
Mobil one 5/20 was 39. On a Nissan Titan I had I tried Mobil one 0/40 and its boron
was 140. Lot of different numbers.

Unfortunately, you're full of crap. You have some good stuff and then some total BS.

 

[jdsfly]

The ticking is cause by the direct injection....have you ever heard a diesel?? They have the same sound...never trust the dealer as they will not fill the engine with the exact 10 qts. Actually it takes almost 10 and a half qts to fill once you have the filter on.
Run mobile on not motorcrap.

If the ticking is caused by the direct injection, how come they don't all tick all of the time?

 

[dman]

If the ticking is caused by the direct injection, how come they don't all tick all of the time?

hello...piston slap equals typewriter tick. even Ford called it out before

 

[Qcman17]

hello...piston slap equals typewriter tick. even Ford called it out before

I don't see something like Ceratec magically stopping something like piston slap so I can't see it as being the source. As for the Direct Injection it can't be that either since previous Coyotes did it as well while only being Port Injected. My vote goes for oil cavitation that's been suggested on here too.

 

[ICU812]

I don't have a v8, so take this for what it is worth.
Has anyone checked to see if the tick isn't the direct injectors , is the high pressure pump electric or mechanical that pushes the fuel psi to 800+psi?
is the thicker oil and/or oil additive just quiting down the injector pump? That everyone thinks id a cam follower tick
Just throwing it out there.

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