If you get 20s you could and should run wider which would give you better traction with a better profile than 19’s. 315 or 325 is what you should be looking at with 20’s. Imho opinion the reason the GT500 uses 20’s and not 19’s. But with 19’s if you wanna run 315 you need to go to a 30 profile and to me that’s just way too thin of a sidewall wise on 19‘s. It just looks awkward and isn’t that great in regard to ride feel. I run 19’s and 305/35 in the rear. Wish they were 315 but will not go to a lower profile.
That’s not exactly why the PP2 is faster. A bigger reason in regards to the tire the PP2 uses is the compound of that tire. It has very little to do with anything other that that. The cup2 is simply much stickier than the 4s.
I thought it was not uncommon for a drag setup to run a 28.5" tall tires? I know about the 20s being heavier,less sidewall on the tire, etc. But my question is the difference between the two enough on a daily driver that drag/street races seldom to make a wheel choice to not go 20s? There are several wheels I like but most seem limited to a 20" size.
Michelin stated that the PS4S and the Cup2 , traction-wise, are identical. The difference is that the Cup2 place that traction in a more lateral direction for improved handling.
Show me where Michelin says the Sport Cup 2 and the MP4S are identical traction but one lateral? I’d like a link to that.
Where does Michelin ”state“ that. It’s 100% false and is why Ford track cars use the cup2. The tread is by far way less on the Cup2 and the compound used Is much sticker. The Cup2 grip and hook wayyyy better. It’s undebatable and proven many times over at this point. Also in regards to heavier wheels on the pp1? The pp1 is 32lbs a wheel same as pp2 only difference is the pp2 wheels are 2in wider retaining the same weight as the pp1 wheels. I get it I see you have a PP2 and it’s a great car but hate to break it to you the better times are from pretty much the tires and magneride. Which is why a pp1 with magneride and cup2’s pretty much guarantees similar times if not the same. I know you want some other magical sauce in there but there isn’t.
So stopping distance improved by 4 ft but the 0-60 and 1/4 mile are unchanged. Same car just different tires. Now what did improve was the lateral capabilities - 1.04 g vs 1.0g.
The times that are advertised for a PP2 vs PP1 are a road course and laps. Straight line they’re pretty much the same. A Cup2’s advantage are on turns and stop power etc. which is the advantage solely pretty much on a PP2. I Stick by my point of it’s pretty much tire and magneride and the Cup2 are a much stickier and better tire for performance than the 4s not that the 4s are bad by any means. They are simply second best.
the times reported were for 0-60 which are done in a straight line. Sure, the effective final drive isn't the only reason it is faster than a similarly equipped PP1. My wording could have been better. I was trying to indicate that changing effective final drive gearing will affect speed. From what I gather, the OP wants straight line speed, not track speed. My original post was meant to show what affect each of those choices would have made. My apologies for my poor wording. It should have said that effective final drive changes aided in making the PP1 faster in straight line 0-60.
Where are you getting this? If you can't feel the difference between Cup 2's and PS4's on a road course, you should stop driving.
