Sponsored
kz
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2014
- Threads
- 62
- Messages
- 4,573
- Reaction score
- 2,892
- Location
- West Chester, OH
- Vehicle(s)
- Mustangs & F150
Almost certainly bleeding would do nothing. The culprit seems to be the pads and the rotors - what exactly did you get ? OEM pads are very good, there is absolutely no reason to upgrade them (nor there that many pads that would be considered an upgrade for daily driver applications)
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Need to know what pads and rotors you used, and also it would help if you could describe the braking in more detail. Does the pedal feel right the car just doesn’t slow? Does the pedal feel different? Can you actually get the front tires to lock up (i.e. does the ABS kick in? What’s thr max Gs you getting on the accelerometer when braking?
EFI
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2015
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 5,287
- Reaction score
- 4,732
- Location
- Masshole central
- Vehicle(s)
- 5.Br0
OEM brake pads are meant to have good initial bite, so if you got different pads they will have a different feel.
Also, depending on what pads you did get, they may indeed be a downgrade in stopping power as the OEM ones are pretty good for that.
Also, depending on what pads you did get, they may indeed be a downgrade in stopping power as the OEM ones are pretty good for that.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Most likely it's your pad choice.
I don't know what pads Roush fits to his cars or if he even changes them out from OEM, but if you went to something like mass-market ceramics or Hawk's "Performance Ceramic" formulation for dust avoidance reasons you most likely made a downgrade.
Norm
Sponsored
EFI
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2015
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 5,287
- Reaction score
- 4,732
- Location
- Masshole central
- Vehicle(s)
- 5.Br0
What is the exact brand/model?
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
PP1 pads are way grabbier than most pads on initial application. My street pads have nowhere near that initial bite, but the braking force is normal. My track pads feel that good, but squeal, grind, and dust like nobody would want in a street pad. The PP1 pads are amazing for the street with hella initial bite, and only one big downside with the amount of dust.
Any pad change, it may take a few hundred miles to get them fully mated to the surface.
Any pad change, it may take a few hundred miles to get them fully mated to the surface.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Brake & Front End Magazine is a repair industry periodical. Boldface theirs.Brake & Front End Magazine said:
Norm
OP
OP
hossman
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #10
Steeda 2 piece rotors and even after use the initial bite is not as strong and the brake force is not as strong either. Just a simple rotor and pad change which I’m no novice at and it should not perform worse than the stock set up. I even did the bedding procedure twice and still no big improvement. I thought maybe the pads glazed.
Sponsored
EFI
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2015
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 5,287
- Reaction score
- 4,732
- Location
- Masshole central
- Vehicle(s)
- 5.Br0
You still haven't told us what pads you got. Till you do that, this is all speculation and we can't help.
And for sure a pad can be worse than stock. The OEM pads are Ferodos DS2500 which is a high quality pad, and if you went with an Autozone special set of pads I can 100% see them performing worse than stock.
EFI
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2015
- Threads
- 65
- Messages
- 5,287
- Reaction score
- 4,732
- Location
- Masshole central
- Vehicle(s)
- 5.Br0
There you go, no name pads. Garbage.
Your OEM pads (as you pretty much noted by now) perform better than these in every way imaginable.
Seems odd to go out and spend the big bux on 2 piece rotors but then get bargain basement pads, especially on a fast 700+ hp car that needs all the stopping power it can get.
Sponsored
