17 GT Manual PP...How would you mod it with $5k?

[chagan02]

Keep in mind tire weight (rotational mass far from the center of the wheel) and width adding to rolling resistance. Getting a lighter wheel then putting a bigger, heavier tire on it is counter productive. The tire affects rotational inertia even more than the wheel since ALL of its weight is far from the center of the tire. You don't really need very wide tires up front unless you're tracking it. Michelin has tire weight for every size on their website. I wouldn't go 285 up front - 265s should be more than adequate and weigh about the same as the 255s. Same thing in back - consider weight but I understand the extra width may help traction -- unless you go with a smaller diameter tire then you'll have less traction than a slightly narrower but taller tire. This is because the longer patch length on the taller tire adds square inches to the contact patch.

All great points. No reason to add excessive weight up from. Actually I could just use the stick tires on if I got 19x9 (which is stock for a PP car I think) up front, then just gotta buy larger PZeros out back. Tires only have 7500 miles in them.

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[chagan02]

This is everything I can think of that I did to mine so far. In all honesty, short of a MGW shifter and boost down the line, I am content and done with any kind of performance mods.

Corsa LTH w/out cats
Corsa Sport catback
18 manifold (non-ported for now)
JLT 110mm intake (would get the 120mm 18+ style if buying new, I just had this one from before).
JLT catch can (optional for sure)
52lb injectors (for E85, which you won't need)
Lund Tune with Ngauge (Flex and E85R is what I have) Get the SCT so you aren't locked into one tuner.
SVE 350 wheels 19x10/19x11 (I am not a fan of these wheels. Whatever finish they use sucks. Mine are pealing around the center cap, I also have two wheels with pieces that broke off from rocks/gravel. So buyer beware, you get what you pay for).
Indy 500 tires (great tires) 285/35/19 and 325/30/19
FRPP shocks and struts
BMR 4 point brace for front subframe (this part is kinda overkill, it is currently sitting in my garage debating if I reinstall or not)
BMR Handling springs
BMR cradle lockout in back
Steeda roll center and bumpsteer kit
Steeda shock mounts
Steeda Clutch spring
Spacity throttle spacers (was a cheap 20 dollar thing I got, definitely optional)
Reische 170 thermostat
Whiteline trans mount insert (not installed yet)

5k should do something similar, with the biggest chunk being on wheels. IMO, the catless long tubes gave the biggest increase in noticeable power. 18 manifold helps up top, but the LTH help everywhere.

Holy cow that’s a long list. Yeah you brought up another question..if I got an 18 mani, do I order a JLT CAI kit for an 15-17 or an 18 plus? Didn’t know how the tubing AND bolt pattern would align.

Also, 325s in the rear! Wow! I bet that looks awesome. At least I know a 305 or 315 will fit.

 

[chagan02]

Also, I think this kinda gives me an idea of what to expect with the catted LTH, ported 18 mani, JLT CAI, and tune. The question is, who do I get to tune? Seems most few LUND is the best for mail order.

 

[Nuked]

Holy cow that’s a long list. Yeah you brought up another question..if I got an 18 mani, do I order a JLT CAI kit for an 15-17 or an 18 plus? Didn’t know how the tubing AND bolt pattern would align.

Also, 325s in the rear! Wow! I bet that looks awesome. At least I know a 305 or 315 will fit.

Get the one for the 18 manifold. I would just call them up and tell them you have a 15-17 with the 18 manifold. they will take care of you. Both will work, the one for the 18 manifold will be a cleaner install though.

 

[Nuked]

Also, I think this kinda gives me an idea of what to expect with the catted LTH, ported 18 mani, JLT CAI, and time. The question is, who do I get to tune? Seems most few LUND is the best for mail order.

Lund and Palm Beach Dyno are the two most popular. Just an FYI, Lund is raising pricing effective August 1st, so if your definitely going to do something, I would order it now and save yourself some money.

 

[AZ18yote]

I agree with everything here. Lots to be said for taking corners at speed, I guess I’m just old school as I get a bigger thrill out of pure acceleration as opposed to lateral acceleration. Corners are fun and I love that too, but I wanna be able to stomp it and it pull like a mutha. Probably a little spoiled with past S/C cars (termi and 17psi Novi on a 2V). My car as it is does pull good, I just feel like I’d like a little more. I’ve had 550whp in the past and I thought it was about perfect. All that said, I realize you can’t have it all, especially if budget and reliability are a concern. Which is why if I could get to 450whp NA (within reason on budget) I’d just do that and then work on wheels, tires, etc.

So, to put a bow on this...

• What are the opinions on LTH with cats? Worth it, or are the power gains negligible for a NA car?
• I’m leaning towards the JLT Tune combo, which would be the best for the money? I really would like one that offers the SCT X4. Is the 45hp gain realistic in this one.
• Does the custom tune help with throttle response (drive by wire)? Should PedalMax be integrated as well as a tune?
• Would the Ford PP2 be a better option, and does it allow for LTH if I go that route?
• Can a man buy a nice suspension kit that doesn’t lower the car? I really don’t wanna be draggin...I like the stock ride height. Again is this even necessary for a PP car that doesn’t hit the Dragon often?
• For wheels, I’m sold on the P51s, thinking 19x10 up front with 19x11 in the rear. Will a 305 fit in the rear? I assume a 275 or 285 will fit up front?

Just to touch on a few points. Catted vs catless lth NA is only about 5 whp difference. Catted will help with smell if staying on pump, catless will be louder. The JLT cai and tune combo will get nowhere near 45whp unless you are tuning for e85, but then its mostly from e85. That said e85 will be your best bang for the buck. Add that to lth. Side note if you go catless on e it actually smells good unlike pump. Lastly, if you go 10" wide in front 285s fit, 11" in the rears can handle at least 315 or down to 305.

 

[Bluemustang]

This is everything I can think of that I did to mine so far. In all honesty, short of a MGW shifter and boost down the line, I am content and done with any kind of performance mods.

Corsa LTH w/out cats
Corsa Sport catback
18 manifold (non-ported for now)
JLT 110mm intake (would get the 120mm 18+ style if buying new, I just had this one from before).
JLT catch can (optional for sure)
52lb injectors (for E85, which you won't need)
Lund Tune with Ngauge (Flex and E85R is what I have) Get the SCT so you aren't locked into one tuner.
SVE 350 wheels 19x10/19x11 (I am not a fan of these wheels. Whatever finish they use sucks. Mine are pealing around the center cap, I also have two wheels with pieces that broke off from rocks/gravel. So buyer beware, you get what you pay for).
Indy 500 tires (great tires) 285/35/19 and 325/30/19
FRPP shocks and struts
BMR 4 point brace for front subframe (this part is kinda overkill, it is currently sitting in my garage debating if I reinstall or not)
BMR Handling springs
BMR cradle lockout in back
Steeda roll center and bumpsteer kit
Steeda shock mounts
Steeda Clutch spring
Spacity throttle spacers (was a cheap 20 dollar thing I got, definitely optional)
Reische 170 thermostat
Whiteline trans mount insert (not installed yet)

5k should do something similar, with the biggest chunk being on wheels. IMO, the catless long tubes gave the biggest increase in noticeable power. 18 manifold helps up top, but the LTH help everywhere.

Great setup man!

 

[chagan02]

Just to touch on a few points. Catted vs catless lth NA is only about 5 whp difference. Catted will help with smell if staying on pump, catless will be louder. The JLT cai and tune combo will get nowhere near 45whp unless you are tuning for e85, but then its mostly from e85. That said e85 will be your best bang for the buck. Add that to lth. Side note if you go catless on e it actually smells good unlike pump. Lastly, if you go 10" wide in front 285s fit, 11" in the rears can handle at least 315 or down to 305.

Awesome, great info man. I kinda felt like 45hp on a tune was a stretch. On the rears, if 305-315 is good then that’s what I’ll get. For the fronts I probably just keep the stock size which I think is 255.

 

[Bluemustang]

If want the car to be nimble do some more suspension work. Springs alone wont get you there. Read up or hit up Brian, he is pretty knowledgeable in this area. Also the car is plenty quick, just need some suspension work and you can take plenty of corners at speed, which gives that thrill of speed.

Well said.

 

[Labradog]

Awesome, great info man. I kinda felt like 45hp on a tune was a stretch. On the rears, if 305-315 is good then that’s what I’ll get. For the fronts I probably just keep the stock size which I think is 255.

You don't want that big of a difference front/rear. IMO go 285/35 on 19x10 square. There's a reason it's popular.

 

[chagan02]

You don't want that big of a difference front/rear. IMO go 285/35 on 19x10 square. There's a reason it's popular.

Yeah you're right. I would like a wider tire on the back though. Plus not sure I need a 285 on the front, car doesn't see the road coarse, just excess rotational mass. I have been digging through the forum and have seen some scary pictures of those P51s...Anyone else had those cracking issues. I'm actually starting to lean heavily toward the Shelby CS-14s.

Edit: Well crap, I see they are heavy bastards as well. I just can't find a wheel I like that is light other than those P51s.

 

[chagan02]

Also, I'm considering all options that have been mentioned on here such as the wheels/tires and suspension mods. I'd still like a little more power I think, so I'm looking at the FRPP2 to save money on the engine side of things. I gotta tell ya though, that No Lift Shift seems to be a headache for most people. Anyone have the PP2 and would like to comment on NLS? I've seen some folks complain about it for just daily driving around town, I thought it only kicked in above 5k with a clutch press?

 

[J17GT]

I have the Ford Performance Power Pack 2 kit. I've only noticed a slight hiccup with the NLS when at the track. I'm thinking the NLS delay is a bit long and I'm shifting a touch too fast. I notice a brief hiccup or stumble at times, but nothing crazy. Around town I've never had an issue with it since I don't keep my foot buried to the floor between shifts like I do at the track.

 

[Strokerswild]

I'm another proponent for suspension stuff first since it's not all that expensive, assuming you can do the work yourself. One thing I would absolutely do no matter what is the BMR rear cradle lockout. It makes a HUGE difference and takes a ton of slop out of the OEM setup.

I did the BMR lockout, BMR lowering springs, and put on MRR GT350 replicas (10" front, 11" rear) all at once on a weekend. It completely transformed the car in terms of handing and looks.

 

[Nuked]

Also, I'm considering all options that have been mentioned on here such as the wheels/tires and suspension mods. I'd still like a little more power I think, so I'm looking at the FRPP2 to save money on the engine side of things. I gotta tell ya though, that No Lift Shift seems to be a headache for most people. Anyone have the PP2 and would like to comment on NLS? I've seen some folks complain about it for just daily driving around town, I thought it only kicked in above 5k with a clutch press?

Get a tune and a CAI over the FRPP 2. This allows you to revise the tune accordingly if you get other stuff, the FRPP2 is set and done.

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