17 GT Manual PP...How would you mod it with $5k?

[Nuked]

Thanks a bunch for the input. LU47 Injectors? What would be the need for injectors since I can’t do E85? As for the other “power” mods you noted, will they be noticeable? If I’m gonna spend 3k for minimal gains on power I’d just lean FI. I wish I could ride in a S550 with these mods and just feel it for myself. From what I’ve read, I’m assuming those mods would be somewhere around 450whp? If so then that would certainly be noticeable, and combined with lighter weight wheels etc, then yes it would feel “faster”.

Sorry missed the no E85 part, so ya no need for the LU47's. Only using pump gas your probably gonna do around 425-430whp with bolt ons (headers/intake/manifold/tune). Probably be best to just go boosted now, get the big money item out of the way and pickup suspension and other supporting mods along the way. Whipple Gen 3, VMP Gen2r or a paxton/vortech could likely be had for around your budget. Run on low boost with conservative tune and it will be around 550-575 whp. You have a performance pack, so stock suspension isn't what I would call terrible, and with the low miles it will likely be just fine for awhile.

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[chagan02]

Sorry missed the no E85 part, so ya no need for the LU47's. Only using pump gas your probably gonna do around 425-430whp with bolt ons (headers/intake/manifold/tune). Probably be best to just go boosted now, get the big money item out of the way and pickup suspension and other supporting mods along the way. Whipple Gen 3, VMP Gen2r or a paxton/vortech could likely be had for around your budget. Run on low boost with conservative tune and it will be around 550-575 whp. You have a performance pack, so stock suspension isn't what I would call terrible, and with the low miles it will likely be just fine for awhile.

Thanks for feedback on the injectors, and the rest of your advice. All these responses just help me make a better decision.

 

[chagan02]

i went backward. bought roush axle backs then added xpipe then went headers. if you dont have a resonator its gonna be stupid loud. i felt like i was wot everywhere i went just cruising at 2k rpm so it got old fast for me. i dont think you have any reason to change injectors unless going E or boosted otherwise you should be more than fine with the stocks. if you do go headers and you like the roush sound then i would suggest borla or magnaflow resonated midpipes. keeps the tone but lower the volume to more manageable levels. i threw a pair of rear racestars which are like 20lb each vs the stock pp rims which i think are 33lb each and wheels are next for me forsure it was so much better in every way with the lighter wheels on.

I’m curious as to how much louder my exhaust would be with Catted Headers (won’t do off-road)? If it didn’t get louder I could keep my CatBack, but if it’s louder I’ll have to sell it and get something natively quieter.

 

[Nuked]

I’m curious as to how much louder my exhaust would be with Catted Headers (won’t do off-road)? If it didn’t get louder I could keep my CatBack, but if it’s louder I’ll have to sell it and get something natively quieter.

catted won't be as loud, but still louder than OEM manifolds. If you are going to stay catted, I honestly would just keep the OEM manifolds. They aren't a bad design and the majority of gains are from going cattless.

 

[chagan02]

catted won't be as loud, but still louder than OEM manifolds. If you are going to stay catted, I honestly would just keep the OEM manifolds. They aren't a bad design and the majority of gains are from going cattless.

Hmm great point. I bet many of those 40-50hp gains you see online in dyno vids are catless headers. All the more reason to just lean into low end FI if possible, for the hp/two gains that is. On top of all the other great content noted here.

 

[AZ18yote]

Hmm great point. I bet many of those 40-50hp gains you see online in dyno vids are catless headers. All the more reason to just lean into low end FI if possible, for the hp/two gains that is. On top of all the other great content noted here.

Honestly modern cat less to catted leaders are probably only about a <5whp difference when NA. More when boosted and safer are that point with no cats. Things to consider if staying NA. Catted will offer a bit more volume control than catless. And since you are not going e85 catted will cutdown on the smell compared to catless on pump gas (on e it actually smells good vs pump lol)

 

[chagan02]

catted will cutdown on the smell compared to catless on pump gas

Been there. Don’t wanna go back. Lol. Thanks for insight!

 

[Nuked]

I had to go back and re-read the OP, because at first glance 5k seems like a pretty easy budget to work with but can quickly get interesting....

With that said, I stick by the go FI now and add some suspension stuff as budget allows over time. Being that it is a 3.73 car, I would lean towards a Vortech/Paxton route. Will maintain similar driving characteristics as stock until higher in the RPM band. Just make sure Cat OverTemp protection stays on in the tune and the stock cats should live for awhile and lower boost/power levels. Would also be advisable to get a decent tire on the back, even something in the stock size is better than the P-Zeros (if that is what is currently on it).

My end goals are similar to yours. I did the little here, little there route and now have only the big ticket item (supercharger) left. If I had to do it all over again I would rather have got the supercharger first, then added the other stuff along the way.

 

[Bluemustang]

Tires #1 and suspension #2 - that's the foundation. No sense in adding more power unless you have the proper foundation to start with. But then again I did full suspension on my lightly modded NA car so your perspective might be different from mine. I just think tires make the largest difference in the car followed by suspension because you feel it and rely on it everytime you get in and drive it.

 

[IrishStallion]

Use the 5k as down and trade the 17 in on 18 up pp1 a10 car. ;).

 

[chagan02]

Use the 5k as down and trade the 17 in on 18 up pp1 a10 car. ;).

Haha no thanks. I like having it paid for.

 

[WildHorse]

Save up another grand, buy a centri and gap the living schitt outta all those 18+ A10 wannabes with your MANual.

 

[chagan02]

I had to go back and re-read the OP, because at first glance 5k seems like a pretty easy budget to work with but can quickly get interesting....

With that said, I stick by the go FI now and add some suspension stuff as budget allows over time. Being that it is a 3.73 car, I would lean towards a Vortech/Paxton route. Will maintain similar driving characteristics as stock until higher in the RPM band. Just make sure Cat OverTemp protection stays on in the tune and the stock cats should live for awhile and lower boost/power levels. Would also be advisable to get a decent tire on the back, even something in the stock size is better than the P-Zeros (if that is what is currently on it).

My end goals are similar to yours. I did the little here, little there route and now have only the big ticket item (supercharger) left. If I had to do it all over again I would rather have got the supercharger first, then added the other stuff along the way.

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking too. I feel IF I’m gonna do FI, then I better do it up front. If I put it off it will never happen. Of course that’s if I go that route. So many dang choices. I do agree that with that gear and a manual, a centri makes most sense.

 

[chagan02]

Tires #1 and suspension #2 - that's the foundation. No sense in adding more power unless you have the proper foundation to start with. But then again I did full suspension on my lightly modded NA car so your perspective might be different from mine. I just think tires make the largest difference in the car followed by suspension because you feel it and rely on it everytime you get in and drive it.

I get that, I just am having a hard time justifying all the suspension and wheel/tire mods when I don’t push it the current limits. That’s said, been looking at wheels and I’m in love with those P51s. The question now is 19” or 20”? I can see the advantages of lighter wheels aside from looks.

 

[chagan02]

Save up another grand, buy a centri and gap the living schitt outta all those 18+ A10 wannabes with your MANual.

Lol. I wasn’t gonna say it. It’s no secret the autos are faster, but I don’t feel they are as much fun. To each their own though. I understand both points of view. I don’t have to have to the fastest, always someone faster. I just want something that puts a smile on our faces and is reliable. I almost bought a new 19, just couldn’t justify $42k for a third car that sits in the garage mostly. Paid $28k cash for this 17 with 6500 on it.

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