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ice445
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2020
- Threads
- 34
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- 6,176
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- Location
- Salt Lake City, UT
- First Name
- Ryan
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 Mustang GT 6MT
I got Castrol Professional from my local Volkswagen dealer for a pretty good price back when I had one and used it. It's good oil, rated to 10K intervals.
Elp_jc
Well-Known Member
To me, 0 vs 5 is no contest; there's simply no drawback to use 0, and most manufacturers are going in that direction; that's why you're starting to see them a lot more. Since I live in hot TX, and many parts of the world with similar climates call for 5/30 on the exact same engine, I'll go with M1 0/30 (since I already have it), and see how the car likes it 
. Hope no freaking 'tick' when I changed it at 1K miles. We'll see. Haven't checked if Castrol already has a 0/30 in that 'liquid platinum' version, but if they do next time, might switch to that. Have heard great comments on it, but I'd still change it around 5K miles, which is about what I put in a year.
. Hope no freaking 'tick' when I changed it at 1K miles. We'll see. Haven't checked if Castrol already has a 0/30 in that 'liquid platinum' version, but if they do next time, might switch to that. Have heard great comments on it, but I'd still change it around 5K miles, which is about what I put in a year.
3rdRGR
Well-Known Member
Cool on the 0. I agree no downside. I was looking for Castrol Extended Performance in 0W30 and wasn't seeing it. It was either 0W20 or 5W30. I'm thinking 0 for flow and 30 for protection and quieter engine (I'm hoping for no ticks w my first oil change as well). I bought my RS2 w 5,500 miles on it and have no idea if the dealer or previous owner changed the initial oil it came with. So I'm looking to do mine asap as I've racked up 700 miles on it already. I just want to make the best move and it ain't an easy decision with so many different opinions out there, even among the highly knowledgeable crowd on the forums. I hear... well if you drive it like a grama, 0W20 is fine. But if you track it, better use 10W40. Well fudge!! I'm no grama (my own Grama used to try to beat everyone she pulled up to a stoplight next to off the line fwiw.. miss ya Gram!). So I'm thinking as a guy who will push the car for short intervals, will use as a DD and will drive it in cold weather, that 0W30 may be the ticket. Amsoil SS and Castrol Edge Professional or Extended Protection are the top recommendations I've collected, with a Motorcraft Oil Filter. You can get the SS in 0W30, but not 100% on the Castrol EDGE. But I've been told with the Castrol and my driving conditions, their 0W20 will be fine. Almost there....To me, 0 vs 5 is no contest; there's simply no drawback to use 0, and most manufacturers are going in that direction; that's why you're starting to see them a lot more. Since I live in hot TX, and many parts of the world with similar climates call for 5/30 on the exact same engine, I'll go with M1 0/30 (since I already have it), and see how the car likes it
GregO
Well-Known Member
It’s really not a complicated choice.
The marketing used to gain market shares, that’s were most fall off the rails and end up having anxiety over their next oil change choice.
The marketing used to gain market shares, that’s were most fall off the rails and end up having anxiety over their next oil change choice.
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3rdRGR
Well-Known Member
I'm mostly sold on the Castrol EDGE EP, it's just that it doesn't come in 0W30, which if I could wave the magic wand, is what I'd go with. That is where Amsoil has the ability to give me exactly what I want, not marketing. I'm probably going to go w the 0W20 Castrol, but I can absolutely see people having tough decisions to make that don't have anything to do with hype, but legitimate trade offs based on how you plan to drive your car.
GregO
Well-Known Member
Fords 5.0 durability testing far exceeded the consumer ability to thrash the 5.0.
There’s no tough decision, Ford designed and tested to failure using 20 weight.
If your not in the extreme heat or on a track there’s no reason to move away from the 20 weight.
There’s no tough decision, Ford designed and tested to failure using 20 weight.
If your not in the extreme heat or on a track there’s no reason to move away from the 20 weight.
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GregO
Well-Known Member
While reading excerpt below keep in mind 20 weight oil is in the oil pan.
Besides meeting the performance goals the Coyote had to pass all of Ford's standard durability tests. These dyno sessions are incredibly brutal, always far exceeding what any rational customer would do to his engine, and occasionally surpassing what is physically possible in a car.
We observed some of this internal combustion water-boarding, and for anyone with a foot-pound of mechanical sympathy it isn't pretty. Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.
We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.
Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test," says Mike. "It can't be that it hasn't seized yet, we need to see crosshatching on the cylinders, no full-face ring wear, leak down needs to be below, oh, eight percent; it has to be very, very functional and could go do it again, quite frankly."
Be assured, this is one team, and engine, that has gone the extra mile to produce a no-excuses Mustang V-8.
Besides meeting the performance goals the Coyote had to pass all of Ford's standard durability tests. These dyno sessions are incredibly brutal, always far exceeding what any rational customer would do to his engine, and occasionally surpassing what is physically possible in a car.
We observed some of this internal combustion water-boarding, and for anyone with a foot-pound of mechanical sympathy it isn't pretty. Engines run fatigue cycles equivalent to 62 Daytona 500 races. Others replicate customer drive cycles for 1,000 running hours to include 1,000 cold starts, plus hitting its peak torque and power for sustained periods. That test alone runs 100 hours a week for two and a half months.
We witnessed another torture session where the engine was run at WOT for several minutes, the headers glowing just a hint of red, then the engine shut off and after several seconds of sitting, -20 degree ice water was forced through the cooling system. Frost formed on the test rig as the engine was about frozen to death, then the ice water stopped, the engine started and after a handful of seconds idling was taken back to max rpm, max load for another heat cycle up to 225 degrees. Each complete cycle takes about 10 minutes, and the engine must survive days of these non-stop thermal shocks.
Most incredibly, "It can't be on its last legs at the end of the test," says Mike. "It can't be that it hasn't seized yet, we need to see crosshatching on the cylinders, no full-face ring wear, leak down needs to be below, oh, eight percent; it has to be very, very functional and could go do it again, quite frankly."
Be assured, this is one team, and engine, that has gone the extra mile to produce a no-excuses Mustang V-8.
3rdRGR
Well-Known Member
Good stuff here, and I'm not trying to be argumentative. I just hear things like the engine runs smoother and quieter with 30 over 20. That may not be an engine that explodes vs one that lives on, but it may be quieter/smoother and with the tick issue hanging over most Coyote owners heads whenever you do an oil change, that is where I may be inclined to go 30 over 20. I'm sure I can get the 0W20 Castrol cheaper than Amsoil SS 0W30 and from all I have researched (and I totally respect your efforts to help educate me) 0W20 will work fine and totally protect my engine. But if I can get that same protection AND have a better guard against the dreaded tick with the thicker formula, while still getting excellent flow of 0W at startup is worth considering.
GregO
Well-Known Member
Yikes, The Tick
Direct injection and PTWA cylinders will cause an untrained ear to gravitate to the “Tick”.
Honestly there was a thread a few weeks ago where the forum member switched to Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 and he stated the Tick is gone and the motor runs smoother.
Your Car, your oil choice. I respect that.
Direct injection and PTWA cylinders will cause an untrained ear to gravitate to the “Tick”.
Honestly there was a thread a few weeks ago where the forum member switched to Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 and he stated the Tick is gone and the motor runs smoother.
Your Car, your oil choice. I respect that.
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3rdRGR
Well-Known Member
I over analyze every major decision. I don't sweat the small stuff, but I thoroughly think through the big ones and this is sort of a big one.
Cheatham
Well-Known Member
Lake Speed Jr. From Joe Gibbs Driven Oil has a lot of great info on oil and the terms and viscosity meanings on YouTube, I learned quite a bit by watching his vids and explanations
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
Why do you think Ford puts 30 in the same engine in many other markets?
What makes me suspicious is in the early 2000s Ford wanted to spec 30 in the owners manuals for a particular engine but use 20 for mileage testing and the gov told them they can't do that so they put 20 in the manual so they could use it in the tests.
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
So no answer to why Ford puts/specs 30 weight in these engines in other markets.
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