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How concerned should I be about the 2016 and 17 oil consumption issue?

GregR

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For some context, here's a recent thread of mine

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...alue-question-from-a-former-pp1-owner.226717/

I've test driven three Machs now, and I don't exactly know why, I'm just not feeling it. The front splitter, the rear spoiler, some of it just feels cheap to me. And all the ones I've looked at have been modified, which frustrates me.

I went to my local mustangs clubs annual car show today, and saw a 2018 GT 350 for the first time, and I absolutely love the way it looks. I spent quite a bit of time talking to the owner, and going through the car, I love it, it's not for sale though, if it was I'd buy it on the spot.

I'm aware of the oil consumption issues with the 2016s and 17s. This is a weekend driver car for me, I'm mechanical, I can turn wrenches, I can stay on top of the oil. Is that really what this comes down to, just staying on top of it? And when looking at used ones, how can I confirm the owner took care of theirs, or if it had issues? Most of the ones I'm finding online are at dealerships and I know they're not going to volunteer or anything.

Thanks
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DCShelby

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My 2018 got a new engine at 6k miles. I checked the levels all the time and did the breakin process just like the manual said. It was a turd oil burner. Then I got a new motor under warranty and I did my own break in procedure and when I traded in at 17k miles it did not burn any oil. The one I have now is a 2020 with Gen 2 motor, so far after putting 4K miles on it, the oil level has not moved a bit. You want better piece of mind get a 19-20 or an earlier one with a replaced Gen 2 motor in it. But there are Gen1s that are fine and do not burn oil. Pick your option that works for you.
 
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GregR

GregR

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Thanks for the replies. For clarity, I have no issues with the oil consumption, this is a weekend driver car and I'm not going to be running it over 8,000 RPMs. I'm more concerned about will the engine need to be replaced at some point. I also think about resale, I usually keep these kind of cars for a couple years, will it be difficult to resell because of the history.
 

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JAJ

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For some context, here's a recent thread of mine

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mach-1-vs-gt-premium-pp1-401a-mods-vs-gt350-—-cost-value-question-from-a-former-pp1-owner.226717/

I've test driven three Machs now, and I don't exactly know why, I'm just not feeling it. The front splitter, the rear spoiler, some of it just feels cheap to me. And all the ones I've looked at have been modified, which frustrates me.

I went to my local mustangs clubs annual car show today, and saw a 2018 GT 350 for the first time, and I absolutely love the way it looks. I spent quite a bit of time talking to the owner, and going through the car, I love it, it's not for sale though, if it was I'd buy it on the spot.

I'm aware of the oil consumption issues with the 2016s and 17s. This is a weekend driver car for me, I'm mechanical, I can turn wrenches, I can stay on top of the oil. Is that really what this comes down to, just staying on top of it? And when looking at used ones, how can I confirm the owner took care of theirs, or if it had issues? Most of the ones I'm finding online are at dealerships and I know they're not going to volunteer or anything.

Thanks
The "oil consumption issue" started with the 2017's and ended after the 2018's. The 2016's were pretty good actually - mine has 50 track days and about 35,000 miles and it goes through a quart of oil every 1200 miles or so and has since new. My completely unconfirmed belief is that the 2017's were "modified" by cost management engineers at Ford, and the engines became a bit of a problem. By 2019, Ford Performance was back in charge with the GT500 block and engine reliability recovered to the 2016 level.
 
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GregR

GregR

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Thanks for the replies, I'm comfortable keeping an eye on the oil, my concern is around longevity, will the engine failing regardless kind of thing. It's difficult to understand why these engines fail if people are keeping up with the oil consumption. Is there something else I'm missing?
 

DCShelby

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Sounds like you should forget it. If you’re that worried about it..
 

sk47

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Thanks for the replies, I'm comfortable keeping an eye on the oil, my concern is around longevity, will the engine failing regardless kind of thing. It's difficult to understand why these engines fail if people are keeping up with the oil consumption. Is there something else I'm missing?
Hello; I think Ford started using what is known as a plasma lined cylinder wall. That being the steel alloy is sprayed onto the aluminum blocks as a liquid plasma. The result is a very thin and hard cylinder lining. Saves a lot of weight to be sure. Has a couple of issues. One being the rings can take a lot of miles to seat in. Another being the hard metal layer is so thin that any damage cannot be repaired.
I know ford tried the plasma lining for a number of years before making it standard in all the coyote V8's. I think it became standard in 2018 in the mustang and maybe 2019 in the F-150 V8's. Not sure about the years. I learned about the oil consumption when shopping for a new F-150. A 2019 model, I think. The reports were some F-150 Coyote engines were bad oil burners. The best i could find out was the oil was getting past the rings during deacceleration which created a heavy intake manifold vacuum.
I found a TSB by Ford. short version is they reprogramed the throttle body plate, so it did not shut all the way when you took your foot off the gas pedal and were coasting in gear. That apparently was to lessen the vacuum by giving another route for air to be sucked in. I do not know if such was used in the Mustangs. My guess is such is likely.

My take is by now the word ought to be out somewhere. As with other cars & trucks, shops eventually get a handle on common problems. The issues which crop up often become known. So perhaps find a shop which has done a lot of Coyote work. Do not bother asking Ford shops as such was a waste back when I was looking into the oil burning of a new F-150. Ford folks are not allowed to tell it seems.

Sounds like you should forget it. If you’re that worried about it..
Hello; I get similar reactions to my questions because i have been on the forum a few years and have not bought a Mustang. I understand their feeling. They are defensive of their Mustangs and apparently by asking such questions feel you are putting down their ride. My take is you hope to weed out the more problematic years before putting money down.
Such makes sense to me. Why buy a model /engine/transmission year with known issues? Better to do some homework and try models /years with the issues resolved. A classic is to avoid the Porsche flat six from around 1997 to 2008 because of an inherent design flaw which affected some 10% of engines. (The IMS shaft bearing). Shop for 2009 and newer.

Good luck
 

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GregR

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I appreciate your humor, however, what I was trying to say is I'm not going to run the car hard every weekend, every time I behind the wheel, and track it,, this is more of a leisure weekend driver kind of car that I may decide to track at some point. Will I run it hard, have fun with it, get into it, absolutely, non-stop like I'm on a track, no.
 
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wingnutt

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I appreciate your humor, however, what I was trying to say is I'm not going to run the cart hard every weekend, and track it and drive it hard, this is more of a leisure weekend driver kind of car that I may decide to track at some point. Will I run it hard, absolutely, non-stop like I'm on a track, no.
no worries, was more of a jest at the 8,000 limit 😉

i dare say we all said similar at some point in time, hell my shift light is set at 7900…but somehow never stops there 😂
 

DCShelby

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A car is not an investment really. Sure its value may go up or stay the same. But 60k invested in an ETF is better than 60k in a car, for the most part. If it worries you that much get another type of car. There is no 60k car that’s going to hold value or possibly increase than a 350. 60k won’t get you a good and nice 911, that’s properly updated and fixed up. It’s not going to get you a 5BW or even a 4 BW. Maybe a used M2 but those things lose value quickly. No Mercedes, maybe a clapped out c63. Same for an Audi S4 or RS4. If you want a car that’s going to keep value and go up, then a 991.1 or 991.2 911, especially a manual. But that’s 120k or more. Those are still factory nice, the 997s are clapped out and bore scored. I’ve gone through all this logic before.
 

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I can't speak for you but when I'm making a $60,000 investment I do my due diligence. And sometimes choosing not to reply is your best reply. Probably some better threads on here you can follow and reply to.
I think what he’s saying is that if you’re going to be constantly worried about the engine grenading, you should look at something else that won’t cause you to worry as much. Hard to enjoy a car when you’re constantly worried about something happening when driving it.

The vibrations of the FPC will increase the risk of an engine issue, it just is what it is. If you care for it properly, get the oil up to temp before driving it hard, you will reduce that risk. But it’s not ever going to be zero. Hell, coyotes will grenade from time to time, shit happens.

Remember too, people that have/had issues will always be the louder voices than those that didn’t. If an engine lets go, they will come here and other places to say so. Those that drive theirs without issue aren’t going to post “drove it today, it didn’t blow up”. Many boosted Voodoo’s without issue in here as well, for whatever that’s worth to you.

End of the day it’s your money and what you’re comfortable with.
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