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what diff/rear subframe bushings to run?

nannerpuddin

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hi guys i want to replace all my diff and subframe bushings along with line lock and any other weak points in that area while i have the thing out. what brands you guys trust? what techniques did you use to stiffen up the rear end to prepare it for a beating and some big power?
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Kobi Addiction

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One way is to drop the rear subframe and replace it all with solid billet pieces and high grade hardware. Additional supports shouldn’t be needed. Just know you’ll have increased interior cabin noise.

I used Steeda parts, going on 6 years now. No issues.

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NightmareMoon

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I’d keep the rubber but reinforce things.

Theres one (1) company that sells OEM like replacement diff bushing that I’ve heard of, then reinforce them the steeda insert pucks and the collars for the subframe bushings. More than that will give a boatload of NVH.

Thr other option is a new subframe from Ford for +$2k and then reinforce the bushings in that.
 

tj@steeda

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We have been putting down a good amount of HP on both our Drag/Race Cars - shoot me an email to [email protected] & I can put you in touch with our tech team to discuss & advise on what will work best for your short term/long term application.

Best,

TJ
 

Clover

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I guess I changed all the mounts and used poly bushings if this counts. It is a 3.73 Torson LSD from a manual PP Mustang. By the way, you know Ford won't sell you that differential new? I guess people would just buy the differential and skip the expensive PP.

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While I had the chance I tossed on a coat of POR15. That cast iron portion looks rusty from the factory but POR15 is cheap, easy to apply, will hold up to the heat, will keep it looking a lot nicer.

Word or warning, the friction modifier in the fluid smells horrible and is strong. Make sure you catch any dif fluid from that 3.73 in a pan and don't let it get into your concert garage floor or you will regret it.

Oh, second word of warning. Don't try to muscle that up from underneath and expect your wife to get a couple bolts in unless you are more man than I am. My wife said she had two bolts in by the time my strength gave out. Turned out to be no bolts actually in and the diferntial got to meet my forehead in a less controlled decent then I would have liked.

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NightmareMoon

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Oh, second word of warning. Don't try to muscle that up from underneath and expect your wife to get a couple bolts in unless you are more man than I am. My wife said she had two bolts in by the time my strength gave out. Turned out to be no bolts actually in and the diferntial got to meet my forehead in a less controlled decent then I would have liked.
Ouch!
 

John S

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I went with various BMR bushing isolators and braces and, while the cradle was out, I upgraded the four axle housing mounting bolts to grade 12.9 through-bolts with lock nuts, and switched to more adjustable-friendly suspension arms with noncompliant bushings. NVH is terrible and gear noise is directly transmitted to the passenger compartment.....as expected. I avoid most Steeda products because of their inferior powder coatings that can't handle exposure to winter climates without flaking and rotting, which they don't warranty.
 

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Steeda and upr make very good products, I have the steeda stop the hop kit on my car and it rides great, best of luck with the car
 

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