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This looks expensive...control arm pulling out of k-member
SheepDog
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You could probably just have the nut re-welded to the frame. If the wollered out section is a concern, you could also have a large washer welded over the hole to re-center the joint.
SHOdaddy68
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Another crappy OEM weld failure....... Just like the clutch pedal pivot, but this one could be deadly if it breaks loose. WOW!
I would lay money on that bolt being bad too. Looks like it's been sliding around in there for a while. Was it rattling?
I would lay money on that bolt being bad too. Looks like it's been sliding around in there for a while. Was it rattling?
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sk47
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Hello; I waited a while before posting to see if folks with specific experience working on the parts would chime in. More specifically to address if that is a round hole in the metal which has been wallowed out to be oblong.
My thinking being if a round hole has been deformed that much then the bolt may be nearly cut thru.
If the hole is a normal factory shaped slot to allow for alignment adjustments maybe not so big of a worry.
My thinking being if a round hole has been deformed that much then the bolt may be nearly cut thru.
If the hole is a normal factory shaped slot to allow for alignment adjustments maybe not so big of a worry.
SBR70.3
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Please tell me your car is being supported by more than a Harbor Freight jack. I love my Daytona, but no way I'd use that without proper jack stands.
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The issue with just welding a thick washer over the outside of the elongated hole is that the slot itself is still there on the inside.
That elongated/wallowed hole reduces the actual bearing surface area where the control arm bushing's inner steel sleeve contacts the subframe bracket. Even with the bolt torqued to spec, the reduced contact area means less friction and clamping effectiveness at the interface. The bolt can still potentially have micro-movement under heavy load, which will eventually beat up and loosen things over time causing this to happen again.
A better repair if you don't want to replace the subframe is to completely fill the elongated hole with weld, grind both sides flat and smooth, then drill a fresh, round, centered hole to the original diameter. That restores full bearing surface area and proper alignment. After that, re-weld the captive nut more substantially (full perimeter instead of the tiny OEM spots) and use a new bolt.
If you're adding a reinforcement washer/plate, it should be thick and oversized, welded on the outside, but the elongated area still needs to be addressed so the sleeve isn't riding on a sloppy slot.
That elongated/wallowed hole reduces the actual bearing surface area where the control arm bushing's inner steel sleeve contacts the subframe bracket. Even with the bolt torqued to spec, the reduced contact area means less friction and clamping effectiveness at the interface. The bolt can still potentially have micro-movement under heavy load, which will eventually beat up and loosen things over time causing this to happen again.
A better repair if you don't want to replace the subframe is to completely fill the elongated hole with weld, grind both sides flat and smooth, then drill a fresh, round, centered hole to the original diameter. That restores full bearing surface area and proper alignment. After that, re-weld the captive nut more substantially (full perimeter instead of the tiny OEM spots) and use a new bolt.
If you're adding a reinforcement washer/plate, it should be thick and oversized, welded on the outside, but the elongated area still needs to be addressed so the sleeve isn't riding on a sloppy slot.
sk47
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Hello; This sounds good and seems to confirm the hole was originally round. The rusted area might be a guide to help position things back to factory specs. At the very least take some measurements since grinding after welding will clean the rust off.
I figure there could be a matching wallowed slot on the other side. A big question will be if doing the work in place on the car is possible. If it turns out a need to remove crops up, then perhaps a replacement. I would try for a good junkyard part. Maybe an aftermarket part if some clever outfit has an improved over factory stuff available.
Look at it this way perhaps. You caught a problem BEFORE it failed and you crashed big time. Bad luck the part failed but good you are not all broken.
Robottrainer
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Looks like the nut broke of and the bolt beat the hell out of the cradle. looks like you need to weld a washer to it to relocate the bolt.Working on The rear of my car it looks like the control arm is starting to pull itself out of the k member.
Suggestions?
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