Your Favorite Portable Lift

[Rapid Red]

Must agree this is a much better way to raise the car. Installed the rails when I got the car,.. Knew that was a must, if I were to do any work on the car. Been tossing the how to get the car up in a good stout manner, for 1K this is ringing my bell.

I paid 400 for a Hein-Werner, 3 ton floor jack for a pickup. So not afraid of pricing for a good jack.

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[Tomster]

There are three locking points at 24", 36" and 48" of lift height. It works similar to some of the post lifts I have seen that are not air locks. As you are bringing it up, you can hear it click into each of the three safety locks. You just stop at which ever height you want and lower it down onto the safety lock. To release the safety lock, raise it up a couple of inches until the spring loaded safety blocking lever comes down and then you can lower it down.

One of those may be in my future.

I just looked it up, 960# shipping weight. not very portable at all.

 

[bendensez]

Where did you get the risers or supports seen under your truck picture?

They are a QuickJack accessory. https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/suv-truck-adapter-kit/

Take the PN from the link above and search on it and you’ll various sources to purchase online. Look for the best deal.

 

[Dunk812]

But Jeff, each side of the QJ covers the nearly the entire section of jacking points, (perhaps the "EXT" version covers more, probably does,) but even so, I'm fairly sure rails are unnecessary with a QJ. Even if I didn't have them, I'd still use the QJ rubber blocks in the divet ends of the QJ's, regardless of whether they contact the rails or not. If memory serves, they catch JP's at both ends anyway...at least one for sure.

I do love the darn thing but I sure would like it if it got up as high as Mark's. Two feet more would be Heaven. :-)

I agree the jacking rails are not really required but I have always put them on so it’s hard to teach an old dog new tricks. I use just the regular rubber blocks not the pinch weld rubber blocks. I agree if it went up 12 more inches it would be perfect but it’s pretty darn close

 

[kenbidwell]

They are a QuickJack accessory. https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/suv-truck-adapter-kit/
https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/suv-truck-adapter-kit/
Take the PN from the link above and search on it and you’ll various sources to purchase online. Look for the best deal.

Thank you sir, I never thought to look at Quickjack for accessories!

 

[marklboris]

One of those may be in my future.

I just looked it up, 960# shipping weight. not very portable at all.

No Tom, not like you can just lift it up and move it around but it comes with a little dolly and you put it under the tongue in front, tilt it up and then since there are wheels in the back of the lift, you can pull it towards you or turn it left or right. The only thing you cannot do is push it forward as it does way over 900#. For me to push it forward I have to have someone pull at the wheel end while I push at my end.

Below are a couple of photos I said I would post with a bit of explanation. First, after raising the car up and down a few times, I noticed that the lift did not always come down in the same place. Being a scissors jack, it would move one or two inches forward or backward when coming down. Not that it was a problem but I wanted it to come down in exactly the same spot so I put those 4x4's on either end to make sure it would land in the same spot when down. You can see with the arms extended it can handle various types of vehicles. For the Mustang, the arms are straight out without being at any angle at all and closer to the end of the lift. I bought some QJ blocks for the pinch welds that are coming in next week.

The lift is just about 5" high and the RaceRamps are 4 1/2" high when they are on the RaceDeck platform and while this makes for a nice set up, I am going to build my own ramps as I am not happy with the RaceRamps. I want something more stable, that will not move and a bit wider so I can drive more types of cars on them. They are 14" wide and perfectly set up in position for the Mustang but when I tried to drive a Honda Civic on them, they were a bit too narrow. I did get a Subaru Impreza on them though. My Ranger and Escape both fit fine too. Bottom line I am going make a ramp that is slightly lower than 4" and about 18 inches wide. Going to hopefully work on that this week.

My garage is just over 9' tall and 30' x 30'. While I would like to have a 2 or 4 post lift because they are solid, it would take up a bit too much room for me in my garage. I considered the QJ lifts but I wanted something more permanent as I would not be moving them around. After looking at the lifts that Bendpak has (I prefer this company), I settled on the MD-6XP and have been very pleased so far.

 

[Tomster]

No Tom, not like you can just lift it up and move it around but it comes with a little dolly and you put it under the tongue in front, tilt it up and then since there are wheels in the back of the lift, you can pull it towards you or turn it left or right. The only thing you cannot do is push it forward as it does way over 900#. For me to push it forward I have to have someone pull at the wheel end while I push at my end.

Below are a couple of photos I said I would post with a bit of explanation. First, after raising the car up and down a few times, I noticed that the lift did not always come down in the same place. Being a scissors jack, it would move one or two inches forward or backward when coming down. Not that it was a problem but I wanted it to come down in exactly the same spot so I put those 4x4's on either end to make sure it would land in the same spot when down. You can see with the arms extended it can handle various types of vehicles. For the Mustang, the arms are straight out without being at any angle at all and closer to the end of the lift. I bought some QJ blocks for the pinch welds that are coming in next week.

The lift is just about 5" high and the RaceRamps are 4 1/2" high when they are on the RaceDeck platform and while this makes for a nice set up, I am going to build my own ramps as I am not happy with the RaceRamps. I want something more stable, that will not move and a bit wider so I can drive more types of cars on them. They are 14" wide and perfectly set up in position for the Mustang but when I tried to drive a Honda Civic on them, they were a bit too narrow. I did get a Subaru Impreza on them though. My Ranger and Escape both fit fine too. Bottom line I am going make a ramp that is slightly lower than 4" and about 18 inches wide. Going to hopefully work on that this week.

My garage is just over 9' tall and 30' x 30'. While I would like to have a 2 or 4 post lift because they are solid, it would take up a bit too much room for me in my garage. I considered the QJ lifts but I wanted something more permanent as I would not be moving them around. After looking at the lifts that Bendpak has (I prefer this company), I settled on the MD-6XP and have been very pleased so far.

Thanks!

By the way, I really like those side stripes. May I ask where you obtained them? Something like that will be going on mine. One comment though, the "0" at the end of "500" looks very close to the wheel well.

Was yours custom? If so, maybe the 500 could be smaller.

 

[marklboris]

Tom, there is 1/2" of space between the letters/numbers and the door and fender. That photo was taken from the front angle and the splash guard was in the way. This is a better shot and you can see the spacing. There is actually about 1/4" of shadow on the left side close to the splash guard so even this shot does not show it
fully but you get the idea.

I got the stripes here: http://www.dealergraphicsdirect.com/product-p/fx-700-oe500.htm

 

[kilobravo]

Those ARE nice but I don't think they will work on the current (or previous, probably) 500's, they're too low.

 

[kilobravo]

And for comparison of the text...Mark's is mighty close. The tiny difference I see is slightly fatter white letter centers.

 

[marklboris]

Those ARE nice but I don't think they will work on the current (or previous, probably) 500's, they're too low.

I am confused. What won't work on the current 500?

 

[Tomster]

Tom, there is 1/2" of space between the letters/numbers and the door and fender. That photo was taken from the front angle and the splash guard was in the way. This is a better shot and you can see the spacing. There is actually about 1/4" of shadow on the left side close to the splash guard so even this shot does not show it
fully but you get the idea.

I got the stripes here: http://www.dealergraphicsdirect.com/product-p/fx-700-oe500.htm

Oh yes.... I must have that in my life.

Something about you.... i knew you wouldn't do anything half ass.

NICE.

 

[RapidResponder]

Damn ... that's impressive ... in many ways

So, tell me TJ,

Is Steeda offering "forum pricing" as you mentioned in an earlier post, or am I on my own to shop around?

RR

 

[Tomster]

So, tell me TJ,

Is Steeda offering "forum pricing" as you mentioned in an earlier post, or am I on my own to shop around?

RR

There's a discount code floating around here somewhere.

Edited to add:

A search found this....

Steeda forum discount code

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/steeda-forum-discount-code.74426/

 

[kilobravo]

What won't work on the current 500?

Sorry, Mark, didn't realize there'd be so many posts in between. I was talking about these risers. I use the short rubber blocks provided by QJ and they are almost too tall to go under the car. I have to put the blocks in the divot ends of the lift before sliding the jacks under the vehicle. Otherwise, it's a bit of a chore to wiggle them in after the jacks are in place.

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