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RapidResponder

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Ahhh...thanks for the update, Ron. Now I remember seeing those on the QJ site but figured they were unnecessary.

However, those short versions would obviously work. What we saw in the photo must have been with the extensions. Definitely more useful in a 2-post lift situation or one like Mark's with arms.

Sure wish we had a Costco in our neighborhood, though.
 

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That adapter kit just above in post 106 came with my lift even though I don't need to use it for the Mustang.

KB, since I have my car up on the RaceRamps which brings is up 4", there isn't a problem with clearance for me adding the pinch weld blocks between the car and the pads on the arms of the lift. Later this week I am going to design and build my own ramps though made out of wood. I want something more permanent, stable and want to bolt it down to the garage floor. I cannot do that with the RaceRamps.
 

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Ahhh...thanks for the update, Ron. Now I remember seeing those on the QJ site but figured they were unnecessary.

However, those short versions would obviously work. What we saw in the photo must have been with the extensions. Definitely more useful in a 2-post lift situation or one like Mark's with arms.

Sure wish we had a Costco in our neighborhood, though.
Costco doesn’t carry those in the stores... online only, they’ll ship to you.
 
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Copy all, Mark but are you sure you want to use lumber and not metal? I guess where you are, things last a good bit longer in the atmosphere but down here, that wouldn't be the case.

The one tool I have been thinking about for years now is a MIG welder and spool gun. Maybe one of these days.
 

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marklboris

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Copy all, Mark but are you sure you want to use lumber and not metal? I guess where you are, things last a good bit longer in the atmosphere but down here, that wouldn't be the case.
There won't be any problem with wood. Our average humidity is around 30-35% and have seen it as low as 11% in the summer months. Of course it is higher when it rains but only when it is raining. It won't be just wood. I will cover it with metal on top and then I will add the RaceDeck on top of that so it will blend in with the RaceDeck parking pads.
 

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Our average humidity is a bit higher than that and I'd have zero issue with fastening lumber to concrete in an area that doesn't get wet from rain, a hose, etc. If you must, just use wood treated for ground contact, a hard wood would be nice. Concrete fasteners such as "Tapcons" are quick and easy to make tight contact with the concrete. Then build from there. I did this whenever necessary for the past 30 years on commercial construction jobs and I've seen what works and what doesn't.
 

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Mark, please share your design on your future ramps, I want to try and build a set and I know they will be just fine here in the desert.

EDIT: Please explain humidity?:tumbleweed:
 

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I just may use treated wood which I do when I have built outside structures (planter boxes, sunshades over patio, retaining walls, etc.) and forgo the metal top which was just going to be for moisture. The only time the car would come in wet is after washing it since I would never drive it in the rain intensionally. I do use Tapcon screws and have quite a big selection of sizes from projects over the years.

I have not been taking nearly as many photos (certainly no detailed photos) with projects on this car as I had on previous cars but I will take some of the ramp build. I just have to remember. :)
 

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Good to hear. I've contemplated extending the overall length of my BendPak low-rise when it is all the way down to make alignments easier and to get the car up off the ground when at rest. I had planned on incorporating turn plates as well but the S550 really doesn't need additional caster so I'm fine without them.
 

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Tob: I've used Tapcon and between those and a Hilti hammer drill, they've saved my bacon many times.
Awesome. Life without bacon isn't worth living.
 

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This has been a very helpful thread, about to pull the trigger on something for a low (9') ceiling. I am mostly sold on the QuickJack.... but saw this one and wondering if anyone has seen/tried it? MaxJax M6... not exactly "portable" since the posts have to be bolted to the floor when using it, but should be good for low ceilings and would allow you to maximize the height your have plus access the full bottom side of your vehicle. Thoughts?

https://www.maxjax.com/maxjax/
 

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This has been a very helpful thread, about to pull the trigger on something for a low (9') ceiling. I am mostly sold on the QuickJack.... but saw this one and wondering if anyone has seen/tried it? MaxJax M6... not exactly "portable" since the posts have to be bolted to the floor when using it, but should be good for low ceilings and would allow you to maximize the height your have plus access the full bottom side of your vehicle. Thoughts?

https://www.maxjax.com/maxjax/
I considered one but decided it would be either too much time and effort to move the posts to where they would be used each time (and the storage space for them) OR too much in the way if left in place. The Quickjack gets parked over. I think the best solution for someone like me without enough ceiling height to walk under a car would be a 4 post with Quickjack for wheel removal. The posts are more out of the way then with a 2 post and it doesn't require any fastening to the floor since its inherently stable. Unless I can get a car high enough to walk under, stooping down isn't a huge benefit over laying on a creeper, which the Quickjack leaves plenty of room for. I also considered the mid rise posted above, but I worried it would obstruct access and mobility while working on many things.
 
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marklboris

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I did look at the MaxJax since I also have a 9' ceiling. However in my garage, in the space I would set up the MaxJax or any two post lift, it would not allow me to open my door fully without hitting the post. My garage has a lot of width but not depth for the cars since I have a work bench, tool chest and other items taking up that space. Also wanted a lift that would make it very easy to detail the car which was the main reason for the lift. I can walk around the entire car detailing the mid and lower sections while I am standing. As far as having access under the car, you are right this is the only drawback to the scissors type lift I have but the area that is inaccessible is from the rear of the transmission to the gas tanks. There is really nothing in that area that needs servicing. Of course if you wanted to replace your exhaust then yes this scissors type lift would not work.

I installed the Lethal Performance resonator delete X-Pipe prior to getting this lift. However, since I have had the lift, I have changed the engine oil and filter, installed the Steeda front G-Trac Brace, Rear IRS subframe braces, alignment kit, bushing support system, rear diff urethane bushings and vertical links. Also replaced the brake pads with G-Loc GS-1 pads (for very little dust) and have had the wheels off and on the car several times (testing different wheels and tires). I mainly bought this lift for cleaning and detailing the car which has been the best addition to my garage ever. At my age (65) it has become very difficult for me to kneel down on the ground then get back up :)

The reason there are so many types of lifts is because people want them for various reasons and you need to get the one that fits for you. Every lift has it's advantages and disadvantages.
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