10w 30 full synthetic

[BmacIL]

Instead of creating a new topic I'll just add on to this one since there's a lot of information here. I am going into my first oil change in about a week, I don't drive the car a lot, I've had it 2 months about and have only 1,300 miles. It IS my only car and is my daily driver. I try to let it warm up in the mornings when it's cold (I live in west Kentucky by the river) and temps get as low as single digits. I would say I let my car warm up adequately 80% of the time. I also drive this thing like the beast it was built to be on the roads. What oil weight do you all recommend for me and why?

16 GT PP

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20. Check the First Oil Change thread here for my recent used oil analysis.

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[GT Pony]

OP, I think you would be OK with that weight in Alabama. I have a big concern about cold oil pressure. Mine runs 90psi with 50 degree oil until it warms up. I am afraid to go with a thicker oil for that reason.

The oil pump has a pressure relief valve to control the maximum oil pressure. I don't know what it's set to on the Coyote (might even be 90 PSI), but whatever it is set to it should control to that point even with 5W-30.

Don't put much stock in what was done in 11-14 coyotes as the heads were redesigned in 15. I am told that is why the 5W-50 called for on 11-14 track packs is not called for on 15-16 PP.

It is strange that they didn't spec 5W-50 with a comment about track use. Not so sure I'd fee comfortable pushing the car really hard for extended period with only 5W-20 in the sump.

 

[BmacIL]

The oil pump has a pressure relief valve to control the maximum oil pressure. I don't know what it's set to on the Coyote (might even be 90 PSI), but whatever it is set to it should control to that point even with 5W-30.



It is strange that they didn't spec 5W-50 with a comment about track use. Not so sure I'd fee comfortable pushing the car really hard for extended period with only 5W-20 in the sump.

Why? Very tight bearing clearances require lower viscosity to get the proper flow to both lubricate and remove heat. What you should really be concerned about is the shear capacity and flash point of the oil. My last UOA (at 9,500 miles on it) on the Pennzoil ultra 5w-20 had viscosity at the top of the should be range and flash point well above 400 F. Go with a top ranked oil and you'll be good, even on 5W-20. 30 would be fine too, but honestly I would worry about the tightest passages getting enough flow with 50.

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/oil-all-the-data-1667481179

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

* 20 wt oils rank between number 3 and 165.
.
* 30 wt oils rank between number 1 and 176.
.
* 40 wt oils rank between number 21 and 164.
.
* 50 wt oils rank between number 22 and 173.

 

[GT Pony]

^^^ Good info ... but what I meant is that if I was pushing the car hard, even on the street, I'd probably opt for a full synthetic 5W-30 instead of 5W-20. I wouldn't jump to 5W-50 like the prior Coyotes specified for track use.

 

[whatsup62]

^^^ Good info ... but what I meant is that if I was pushing the car hard, even on the street, I'd probably opt for a full synthetic 5W-30 instead of 5W-20. I wouldn't jump to 5W-50 like the prior Coyotes specified for track use.

Agree
Below is some info from a post elsewhere on this forum. Normal driving the factory spec oil should be fine. For those of us pushing our engines a step up would be better in my opinion. I'm in process of going FI. I have no plans currently to change out OP gears on my car. The Boss engines ran the same OP gears.

5W-20 is too thin. It shears down after just a few miles and offers almost no viscosity. 5W-50 is factory fill on the Boss 302, which has the same OPGs and turns 7500RPM in stock form.

If you ever have the timing cover off for some reason, definitely throw in some OPGs. $400 is cheap insurance. Until then, don't worry about it if you have good oil. Some of you guys seem a little timid to rev these cars to 7000-7500. Don't be. They essentially have the same engine as the Boss used to have, just with the long runner IM instead of the short runner. They're stronger than the 11-14 Coyote.

I ran the factory fill for the first 1000 miles then switched to Royal Purple 5w-20. I have had no issues and always been a fan of RP (ran in various performance cars in the past). Once car comes out in Spring I will be steeping up to RP 5w-30 (wish they had a 5w-40).

 

[Rough Hollow Man]

Agree
Below is some info from a post elsewhere on this forum. Normal driving the factory spec oil should be fine. For those of us pushing our engines a step up would be better in my opinion. I'm in process of going FI. I have no plans currently to change out OP gears on my car. The Boss engines ran the same OP gears.



I ran the factory fill for the first 1000 miles then switched to Royal Purple 5w-20. I have had no issues and always been a fan of RP (ran in various performance cars in the past). Once car comes out in Spring I will be steeping up to RP 5w-30 (wish they had a 5w-40).

I've used Royal Purple for years and been satisfied that it's good for temperature control and mileage improvement.:clap2: And I worked for Royal Purple's competition for 30 years, but I knew RP might be a bit better. RP seemed to run cooler in my previous Coyote Mustangs. And now my Cyclone Mustang vert ran a 500 mile trip recently at 32.4 MPG.

 

[Nataphen]

To put it into perspective, I was talking about running 5W-50 if you wind the engine out to 7000RPM+ often. If you street drive with occasional hard driving, 5W-30 or 10W-30 is what I'd recommend. You have to adjust your oil weight according to climate and for what the car is used.

5W-20 is fine if you don't run the car hard, but I'd recommend a full synthetic. Motorcraft oil shears down to extremely low viscosity after a short time, no matter what weight it is. If you're worried about Ford approved oils, Amsoil 5W-50 is approved OEM replacement for cars that call for that weight. I don't know if the other Amsoil weights are approved by Ford.

 

[BmacIL]

To put it into perspective, I was talking about running 5W-50 if you wind the engine out to 7000RPM+ often. If you street drive with occasional hard driving, 5W-30 or 10W-30 is what I'd recommend. You have to adjust your oil weight according to climate and for what the car is used.

5W-20 is fine if you don't run the car hard, but I'd recommend a full synthetic. Motorcraft oil shears down to extremely low viscosity after a short time, no matter what weight it is. If you're worried about Ford approved oils, Amsoil 5W-50 is approved OEM replacement for cars that call for that weight. I don't know if the other Amsoil weights are approved by Ford.

There's no reason to have a 10W-** at all. You'll just increase cold start wear.

Unless you're a pretty competent driver spending most of the time on the road course in Texas or somewhere very hot, going beyond a premium full synthetic 5W-20 is not needed. Do a UOA. What I use maintains its viscosity from new through 9,500 miles. Brand new oil viscosity @ 100 celsius is in the 8.5-9.5 (cSt) range for Ultra Platinum 5W-20, and mine was 9.2. I drive the car daily and that almost always includes multiple WOT events, occasionally to redline. Please show some actual data that says a 50 weight is needed even for track use, other than anecdotal and hearsay. I could see using 5W-30, but beyond that, no.

 

[mustang_guy]

There's no reason to have a 10W-** at all. You'll just increase cold start wear.

Unless you're a pretty competent driver spending most of the time on the road course in Texas or somewhere very hot, going beyond a premium full synthetic 5W-20 is not needed. Do a UOA. What I use maintains its viscosity from new through 9,500 miles. Brand new oil viscosity @ 100 celsius is in the 8.5-9.5 (cSt) range for Ultra Platinum 5W-20, and mine was 9.2. I drive the car daily and that almost always includes multiple WOT events, occasionally to redline. Please show some actual data that says a 50 weight is needed even for track use, other than anecdotal and hearsay. I could see using 5W-30, but beyond that, no.

Svtperformancehttp://www.*******************/forums/showthread.php?805918-Official-GT-5-0-Boss-302-UOA-thread.

 

[BmacIL]

Svtperformancehttp://www.*******************/forums/showthread.php?805918-Official-GT-5-0-Boss-302-UOA-thread.

Ok so I didn't read the whole thread, but the table in the first post validates my oil choice (Pennzoil Ultra), which had essentially net zero viscosity change, in fact positive, in its use, where the vast majority of other oils had 5-10% drops, some worse than the that.

Does it continue to detail how a 50w is needed for track use (based on oil temps and direct UOA comparisons that were track only)? Just as they specify fluid change intervals with track use, they would also do the same with oil weight. I will talk to my contacts who did the coyote development about this and report back.

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[Knight5.0]

I went with pennzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 and Amsoil filter.


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[Nataphen]

10W-30 is fine for really hot climates. If it's already 100°F when you start your car, the 10W is going to help fight shear with little to no extra cold start wear. That's why I said to pick your oil according to climate and use.

 

[BmacIL]

10W-30 is fine for really hot climates. If it's already 100°F when you start your car, the 10W is going to help fight shear with little to no extra cold start wear. That's why I said to pick your oil according to climate and use.

True. Most of us only get weather like that for a month or so (at most) out of the year, so 10W would be a detriment to flow at start up. It's between 40 and 75 degrees most of the year here, and obviously can be sub zero in the winter.

Just an interesting comparison...

Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C: 48 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C: 8.8 cSt

Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C: 56.3 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C: 10.3 cSt

Pennzoil Ultra 10W-30
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C: 62.8 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C: 10.4 cSt

Those 40 C values would be very close to what you'd have on a 100+ deg F day, but on a 40 deg F day, would be a good deal higher. Even at 40 C, that's 12% and 31% higher resistance to flow (5W-30, 5W-20, respectively).

 

[Nataphen]

Here in Texas, we see plenty of 100°+ days per year. I usually did 10W-30 for summer, and the hot parts of fall and spring. I switched to 5W-30 for the colder months. I was running a Boss IM and saw 7500RPM+ on the regular. If I were to road race it, I may consider the 5W-50, but I mainly suggested that because it's approved by Ford.

 

[mustang_guy]

While i am definitely a pennzoil platinum or ultra guy there is more to a uoa then just what youve expressed Bmac. But im sure you know that. You and i both know that amsoil over all is a superior product typically. For my daily sti I use hyper myself. But for my fun cars i use amsoil. You might find that backwards but i dont run my daily as hard as my race cars. There used to be a day were mobil 1 used to rival amsoil but those days are long gone since early 2000s when mobil changed its forumla. I do not think pennzoil ultra is that m1/amsoil rival replacement but i find it to be close enough.

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