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Full Synthetic vs Synthetic Blend (5.0)

What oil for the Coyote 5.0?

  • Ford Synthetic Blend 5W-20

    Votes: 67 30.9%
  • Ford Full Synthetic 5W-30

    Votes: 40 18.4%
  • Mobil 1 Full Synthetic

    Votes: 57 26.3%
  • Other oil, explain in the thread

    Votes: 39 18.0%
  • Pie

    Votes: 14 6.5%

  • Total voters
    217

Coyote Red

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Lucas synthetic stabilizer

If you don't mind me asking, why do you use this Lucas stuff?

I had a Harley that had a rocker noise. This stuff would quieten it down.
My Mustang V-8 is quiet.
I don't see any reason to use an additive.
It may very well be a futile effort and un-needed cost. I am open to research that shows it's not needed, and understand most won't use it.
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TomcatDriver

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Jason,I don't think it's the amount of miles you drive every year as much as the protection a quality synthetic offers each time you drive. I average under 5k per year also but I want a quality oil working every time I push that button.
I'll second this. If you're not driving it much that's an argument in favor of full synthetic. Full synthetics are more stable over time, and if you're only changing your oil once a year the cost difference is trivial.
 

SR56

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Full synthetic, every time. I was using Amsoil Signature Series, but switched up to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 after seeing a lot of good results from it. I really like Amsoil, but it's more expensive and a pain in the ass to get. I got tired of paying to be a member of the "club" just to get a discount off their MSRP. Amazon subscribe & save for the Pennz UP, done deal at a significant price difference.

As for going full syn, I've used it for years. Started with Mobil 1 in the 90's then switched to Amsoil. Many good oil analysis results, and one torn apart motor at 109k was clean as a whistle with virtually no wear.

Another thing that really sold me was the heat reduction. I had a Class 8 semi-tractor. It was used and had 300k on the motor. Fresh oil when I bought it, so I ran it for about 25k then changed to Amsoil in the motor, trans, and differentials.

In the summer temps hitting high 90's and over 100, I had one little hill I had to pull over. With a full load and total weight of over 75k and the dino oil my temp gauge would climb and fans would kick on before I even crested the hill. Every time. After going full syn Amsoil, the temp needle never rose and the fans didn't kick on. Pretty amazing when you think about it. That, and my MPG went from around 6.5-6.7 to 7-7.5 on average.

While it's a different animal of vehicle and much more load, it could be similar to a motor that's constantly revved high in a race application in high temps.

Would syn blend give those results?
 

5.0AVP

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One thing I will say is that after oil changes with motorcraft full synthetic my car has the bbq tick for roughly 1000 miles. I used the full synthetic in my 13 GT and had no issues. I would read through the forums on this topic before making that decision. It seems the motorcraft full synthetic may be the culprit but much of the data is inconclusive.
 

bluebeastsrt

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Mobil one full synthetic. Usually get a real good price on the stuff at Wal-Mart. I do it my self. Just because I can't bare to give the dealer a wad of money. For a 15 minute job.
 

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JohnD

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Mobil one full synthetic. Usually get a real good price on the stuff at Wal-Mart. I do it my self. Just because I can't bare to give the dealer a wad of money. For a 15 minute job.
Totally agree. And as often as not the kid in the oil change rack hasn't got a clue what he's doing and cares even less.

"Eight quarts? No way dude, cars take five.":p
 

WildHorse

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ForTehNguyen

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pennzoil has rebates going on now also $2/qt rebate up to 24qts
 

JGonvardi

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I use Amsoil signature full synthetic every 5k miles. I noticed that the engine temp remains cooler during performance driving compared to Motorcraft synthetic blend. Great product.
 

mc68386

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I've got a 2017 with about 1700 miles right now. My plan is to do the first change at 3000 and the second at 8000, using decent brand dino-juice. After that, I'll probably change it when the car asks for it, using the cheapest (quality) full-synthetic available at the time. Probably just superstition, but I still like the idea of using non-synthetic during the break-in, just in case full synthetic is "too slippery" to allow proper break-in wear.
 

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Sig556

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I've got a 2017 with about 1700 miles right now. My plan is to do the first change at 3000 and the second at 8000, using decent brand dino-juice. After that, I'll probably change it when the car asks for it, using the cheapest (quality) full-synthetic available at the time. Probably just superstition, but I still like the idea of using non-synthetic during the break-in, just in case full synthetic is "too slippery" to allow proper break-in wear.
This is why it is best to use Fords factory oil* (Blend) for a maximum of 5000 miles (Break in period) even though the engineers say the vehicle does not require a break in. Also drive and use the brakes as easy as possible so that all mating parts blend and mate perfectly together. The old saying of drive it like you stole it in order to seat the rings was somewhat true. When using standard oil products. Guys if you drive the car normally and easy for the first 500 miles the ring seat and parts mating of the engine will be spot on also the brake pads and rotors will be seated properly and the brakes will last and perform much longer. This is not just my opinion but advice from the professionals check it out.
I go straight to Full Synthetic and a quality filter at my first oil change and do not look back.
 

Timeless

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Ibut I still like the idea of using non-synthetic during the break-in, just in case full synthetic is "too slippery" to allow proper break-in wear.
This is why it is best to use Fords factory oil* (Blend) for a maximum of 5000 miles (Break in period) even though the engineers say the vehicle does not require a break in.
Lots of cars come from the factory with full synthetic so that should put the too slippery to allow proper break in to rest.
 

Sig556

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Check it out!

What brands of oil filters do you use?
To answer your question On my GT I use Motorcraft (FL-500S) original equipment Filters V8 only. A friend of mine is a Ford engineer and he said it's best to stick to original equipment as the Motorcraft filter is designed for burst strength, filtration, and the utmost compatibility with the recommended oil. Also go to Google and check out the full story on filters. OIL FILTER COMPARISON CHART. Note! Napa Gold are actually WIX filters and are a go to if you don't want to use Motorcraft. Check out the comparison chart it will be a real eye opener.
 

bootlegger

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It may very well be a futile effort and un-needed cost. I am open to research that shows it's not needed, and understand most won't use it.
You should read up on bobistheoilguy. There are thousands of long term oil analysis threads on there. It is pretty clear that modern oils contain enough additives to cover everything you need. If I were still at my old company, I could show you some test results of a few brands like Lucas. The aftermarket bottles are almost all solvent with little to no active ingredients.
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