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Anyone run 5w30?

Gdyup50

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TorkN8R

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The term 100% synthetic, as you often see it on motor oil bottles and in mfr.'s marketing literature, isn't what you think it is.

Back sometime in the '80's, ExxonMobil persuaded the National Advertising Council that a highly refined (i.e. highly chemically and physically modified) oil made from crude oil pumped out of the ground could be marketed/sold as "synthetic". So, any engine oil made by that process could be represented as "100% synthetic".

A better guide to the nature of the base stock in motor oil is the system of classification established by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Briefly: group III base stock is the highly modified/highly refined base stock made from oil pumped out of the ground. Group IV is a base stock made in the test tube, so to speak, and in that sense a true synthetic product. Chemically, grip IV base stocks are known as PAO base stock (polyalphaolefins). Group V base stock is made from chemical and vegetable esters. Probably the most famous grp V (or at least the original anyway) is Castrol R racing oil made from the vegetable ester of the castor bean (like castor oil). Grp IV and V oils are the only true synthetic motor oils.

Grp V oils were originally developed in Germany before WWII. They were the only oils at that time that could stand up to the very high heat and very high rpm's of the newly developed jet engines. Grp V oils did have some drawbacks. They aged or oxidized and thickened rather rapidly and they were expensive to make.

Grp IV PAO's were next. The are close to grp V in performance and less expensive to make.

When Joe Amatuzzi, a former Air Force jet jockey, founded Amsoil back in the 70's he was well aware of the performance benefits of grp V ester oils, which is why the original Amsoil motor oil was a grp V ester oil and advertised as such. Incidentally, two chemists from Amsoil left and formed their own company specializing in ester based motor oils called Redline. Somewhere along the way Amsoil motor oils transitioned to grp IV base stock and were advertised as PAO's. They've since dropped that in their advertising and are most probably grp III+ base stock.

Unless they are specifically advertised or touted as grp IV or V, you can figure that any "100% synthetic" oil in question is grp III+. Grp III+ oils are made from high quality base stocks that are close to or equal to PAO's in their performance. Almost all syn motor oils today are grp III+ and the reason is simple: grip III+ oils, together with the advanced additive packs of today, are more than good enough for most any passenger car application, and that includes high performance applications.
Wow! Thanks very much for that man. Thats the kind of info a guy can use. Very comprehensive. With that said...would you break that down for us? Out of the three most readily available at the local parts store, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1, which if any would be the preferred motor oil that would best be compared to Full Synthetic?
 

jasonstang

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You really can't go wrong with M1 5W30.
 

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rozay

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I use MC 5w30 syn blend
Change every 3k now

Next change will be Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 4k interval
 
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m6pwr

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Wow! Thanks very much for that man. Thats the kind of info a guy can use. Very comprehensive. With that said...would you break that down for us? Out of the three most readily available at the local parts store, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1, which if any would be the preferred motor oil that would best be compared to Full Synthetic?
Which syn motor oil is the best oil for my _____--_______? That is the question most frequently asked on the BITOG oil forum, at least two or three times a week. BITOG has around 45,000+ subscribers. A couple of dozen of them seem to really know what they are talking about. A handful are chemists or engineers who actually work in the lubricants industry. I think this last group is smart enough that they would probably tell you to use a syn that meets the engine mfr's approval specs (i.e. Ford WSS-M945-A for the Coyote V8), and in the service grade and viscosity recommended by the mfr (i.e API SN 5W20 for the Coyote), and they would leave it at that. All of the others would jump to give you their recommendation - - and it would be based solely on personal preference or brand loyalty, and whatever oil seems most favored by the "in crowd". In other words, whenever bench racing with the guys, chant over and over, "My Amsoil is red hot, your Mobil 1 is diddly squat!" Or, "My Royal Purple is red hot, your Amsoil is diddly squat!" You get the idea.

I think you couldn't go wrong using any of the syns you mentioned above provided they meet Ford's specs. Your choice.
 

Gdyup50

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Which syn motor oil is the best oil for my _____--_______? That is the question most frequently asked on the BITOG oil forum, at least two or three times a week. BITOG has around 45,000+ subscribers. A couple of dozen of them seem to really know what they are talking about. A handful are chemists or engineers who actually work in the lubricants industry. I think this last group is smart enough that they would probably tell you to use a syn that meets the engine mfr's approval specs (i.e. Ford WSS-M945-A for the Coyote V8), and in the service grade and viscosity recommended by the mfr (i.e API SN 5W20 for the Coyote), and they would leave it at that. All of the others would jump to give you their recommendation - - and it would be based solely on personal preference or brand loyalty, and whatever oil seems most favored by the "in crowd". In other words, whenever bench racing with the guys, chant over and over, "My Amsoil is red hot, your Mobil 1 is diddly squat!" Or, "My Royal Purple is red hot, your Amsoil is diddly squat!" You get the idea.

I think you couldn't go wrong using any of the syns you mentioned above provided they meet Ford's specs. Your choice.
This topic is probably one of the most widely discussed on any car forums...as you said, everyone knows better....came from the M3 forums and guys argued over it every night, it always comes down to the same thing...is it worth changing from the recommended oil for a minor savings. I know that isn't what this thread is about, but it probably will at some point.
 

CTH621

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I'm in the Philippines and all Ford dealers (more than a dozen) here only put in 5w-30 fully synthetic Shell Helix Ultra. Strict order by Ford Philippines. We get 90-100 degree weather all year round.
 

rozay

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South Florida gets very hot and we really don't get a winter down here. This made me switch to 5w30
 

Excelerater

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I must be nuts,I run what Ford recommends,....Motorcraft ..

However on my wifes car I have a puzzling issue.
2014 Acura,32000 miles and Its spec oil is 0/20 Synth,I use Mobile one w WIX filters

Blackstone report says Alum should be 3 but report came back at 21,suggesting we are
wearing pistons,the oil had 6000 miles on it on the test ,MFG says we need to change at 5000..Maybe I pushed
that thin oil too far ?

Did an oil change and switched to M1 extended 15000 mile oil,its a few bucks more but Im hoping its a better quality
oil ? I also changed the air filter as the report suggested dirt may have entered the system

I plan to change oil at 5000 miles and retest however I would like to ditch the 0/20 and run 5/30 which
i know would give better protection but void our warranty ,0/20 which is what Im told I have to use
oil is all about gas mileage not so much protection


any thoughts ?
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