Upper Rear Shock Mounts - Broke 'em both

[DickR]

I hope your order has been placed since "vehicle down" is supposed to have priority.

I just ordered 2 "just in case" but don't expect them soon.

Note that the 120 is only 60 cars on the production line so there must be far more being produced and shipped to the factory.


FYI my car is SCCA F Street (autocross) legal so I'm not worried but I used to be a Boy Scout (be prepared). Rear shocks are single adustable Koni Sports from another application and the springs are stock. Since the body of the Koni's is a little longer than oem I use slightly shortened oem bump stops in order to comply with an SCCA rule. Trimmed at the base in order to maintain the progressive rate of the "cone" at the shock body end.

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[dragonacc]

+1

Now I've got rethink the Ridetech and KW V3 CO's.

The Ridetechs use an all new upper mount FYI.

 

[2Cool]

If the Viking is relying on that 19mm or so shoulder to provide all of their support, then it looks like a pretty craptastically underengineered part. First off that is much smaller then the underside of that mount. Next it appears sharply finished, not rounded on the edges. Small contact area, nice sharp lead-in area for failure, and yep, you made yourself a metal hole punch.

I did not take my shocks apart when I did springs, but you would think there is some kind of washer or something in there on the OEM parts. I cannot locate any installation instructions or videos for Vikings online that show the hardware. Anyone have an exploded view of the stock part?

 

[Anthony@HTM]

I think with a larger washer below the mount along with a bump stop it wouldn't have done this. With that mount being cast alu it needs the force to get spread out.

 

[modernbeat]

... All that I can say is that it appears to have functioned as a mechanical fuse i.e. like a shear pin.

Dick, this is what Terry and I both thought when we first took the 2015 apart. It looks like the "fuse" would be aggravated by a too short shock, or lowering too much. And it would be defeated by a coil over conversion. FWIW, I would NOT try to defeat it without going through your suspension to make sure it will work with a non-fused mount.

A rear, upper spherical mount is on my development list, but I admit I have not gotten to it yet. Coilover spring perches for OEM diameter springs and rear ride height adjusters were first in line. ;)

 

[DickR]

The Ridetechs use an all new upper mount FYI.

Probably need to space the top mount further from the body to clear the spring and top spring seat in addition to any strength improvement they have decided is needed.

 

[DickR]

If the Viking is relying on that 19mm or so shoulder to provide all of their support, then it looks like a pretty craptastically underengineered part. First off that is much smaller then the underside of that mount. Next it appears sharply finished, not rounded on the edges. Small contact area, nice sharp lead-in area for failure, and yep, you made yourself a metal hole punch.

I did not take my shocks apart when I did springs, but you would think there is some kind of washer or something in there on the OEM parts. I cannot locate any installation instructions or videos for Vikings online that show the hardware. Anyone have an exploded view of the stock part?

Actually the Viking approach with a nut is the same as the oem approach with a collar on the shaft EXCEPT oem also has a bump rubber.

Here are some pics of oem followed by pics of the Konis I used. Since the Konis are high pressure monotube they can be installed "upside down" which is necessary in order for this "different application Koni" to be used in our cars. (These Konis are normally used for a completely different application.) There is a picture of the Koni with the supplied Koni bump next to the stock Ford bump (in the plastic bag). To comply with the SCCA rules I trimmed the white foam on the right side of the black band off the oem Ford bumpstop.

Note that the mounting and rebound adjuster eye of the Koni is removable in order to replace the bump stop.

 

[DickR]

I think with a larger washer below the mount along with a bump stop it wouldn't have done this. With that mount being cast alu it needs the force to get spread out.

Maybe . . . but I suspect that the rubber in the oem mount functions similar to a spherical bearing in order to deal with shock shaft angle changes as the suspension moves up and down. Not knowing how the rubber is "captured" in the oem mount I don't really know but I wouldn't use your approach prior to knowing. Also supporting the top of the shaft lower in the mount means the shock rod is further into the shock body at ride height so internal travel would be reduced. This would need to also be checked.

Lots of "fun".

 

[Schu]

What does that matter... obviously it's a breech of the compression travel.

Like running with a solid rear mount the cast piece was the weakest link in the chain and it let go, on both sides. Thicken that piece up and perhaps it will be the chassis/unibody next time

 

[jc1804]

just wondering, what were your settings? not that it should matter, but if they were set very stiff maybe the bracket not adequate for it.

 

[MtnBiker]

If the Viking is relying on that 19mm or so shoulder to provide all of their support, then it looks like a pretty craptastically underengineered part. First off that is much smaller then the underside of that mount. Next it appears sharply finished, not rounded on the edges. Small contact area, nice sharp lead-in area for failure, and yep, you made yourself a metal hole punch.

I did not take my shocks apart when I did springs, but you would think there is some kind of washer or something in there on the OEM parts. I cannot locate any installation instructions or videos for Vikings online that show the hardware. Anyone have an exploded view of the stock part?

I installed the Vikings - the mounting points are virtually identical in size and shape (sharp finish). I wasn't all that impressed with Ford's design either. I do wonder about the top mount ... OEM uses a nicer flange nut vs the Viking solution with a hex nut. I have some grade 8 flange nuts on the way. In case anyone is wondering, the threading on the Viking upper is 3/8-24.

 

[BackinBlackS550]

I hope your order has been placed since "vehicle down" is supposed to have priority.

I just ordered 2 "just in case" but don't expect them soon.

Note that the 120 is only 60 cars on the production line so there must be far more being produced and shipped to the factory.


FYI my car is SCCA F Street (autocross) legal so I'm not worried but I used to be a Boy Scout (be prepared). Rear shocks are single adustable Koni Sports from another application and the springs are stock. Since the body of the Koni's is a little longer than oem I use slightly shortened oem bump stops in order to comply with an SCCA rule. Trimmed at the base in order to maintain the progressive rate of the "cone" at the shock body end.

Just got the notification that the order I placed with Rock Auto has been cancelled, since they don't have any either. Their inventory was wrong.

 

[DickR]

Just got the notification that the order I placed with Rock Auto has been cancelled, since they don't have any either. Their inventory was wrong.

Maybe a local dealer can order them with "vehicle down" (whatever the correct term is) priority.

Good luck.

 

[dwaleke]

Someone in MI has 12 but they won't ship them out of state.

I am in Michigan. Ship them to me and then I will ship them to you as long as you cover the cost. I will donate my time to help you.

PM me if interested.

 

[BackinBlackS550]

I am in Michigan. Ship them to me and then I will ship them to you as long as you cover the cost. I will donate my time to help you.

PM me if interested.

PM sent. Thanks!

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