socalsnake
Well-Known Member
+1This adds to my fear of going with rear coilovers. That mount looked we to me before, now I'm really suspicious...
Now I've got rethink the Ridetech and KW V3 CO's.
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+1This adds to my fear of going with rear coilovers. That mount looked we to me before, now I'm really suspicious...
KWs mount just like OEM and use bump stops...+1
Now I've got rethink the Ridetech and KW V3 CO's.
I thought that the KW V3 was a true rear coilover and the KW V1 where like the OEM rear set-up.KWs mount just like OEM and use bump stops...
NopeI thought that the KW V3 was a true rear coilover and the KW V1 where like the OEM rear set-up.
Thanks for the clarification. Good to know!Nope
Only difference is v3 is rebound and compression adjustable. Whereas V1 is not.
Yeah those are not the correct picture. I can beat their price no problem.Thanks for the clarification. Good to know!
Tirerack's picture is misleading even though they do say its an approximation of the product...
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/...toYear=2015&autoModClar=GT+w/+Performance+Pkg
Will definately reach out to you when I'm ready to order either the V1 or V3. I'm assuming you can match or beat the Tirerack price on both of them?
I'm running the KW HAS system on my M4 and the ride is superb. I'm far from a track junkie so the progressive springs on the V1 and helper springs (I'm assuming) on the V3 don't bother me at all.
What size are the shaft threads and nut OD on the shock rod with the Viking's?
The oem shaft thread is 10 mm and the collar which bears on the mount is 17 mm OD.
The Koni's I'm using have 10 mm threads and the nut which bears on the mount is 17 mm OD.
Regarding the failure we had a similar experience with a Bilstein on a camper van. The van used the old style washers with bushings. The shocks came with 2 thickness of washer but NO instructions regarding which to put on the shock side of the mount. The installer we used installed the thinner washer towards the shock on one side of the van. The shaft punched through after a few thousand miles. Probably due to a freeway bump.
The "thin" washer which failed wasn't very "thin".
Agreed by the way that the mount is correct. It won't assemble to the car properly if upside down (speaking from experience :-) )
The rubber isolator that sits in the mount has a hard (i think metal) insert in it that the black steel collar with the hex contacts. That insert also contacts the top part of the mount that broke. So as far as I can tell, the only thing all of the force of the shock absorption hits is the piece at the top of the mount (that broke).Looking at the Vorshlag picture and at my car the nut/collar on the shaft does not bear on the casting (aluminum?). It actually bears on the black steel collar with the hex in the middle. I don't know what originally secured the hex collar and rubber bushing into the mount. "Something" was strong enough to normally prevent vertical movement of the hex collar and to break portions of the "rolled look" portion of the casting. Originally there is a black disk that "looks and feels" like plastic but that is missing. I cannot tell whether the hex collar was originally bonded to the rubber bushing or even a press fit.
Reverse engineering is a challenge when you 1) don't have enough information and 2) aren't a mechanical engineer. :-) All that I can say is that it appears to have functioned as a mechanical fuse i.e. like a shear pin.