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Man I've got some work to do! Looking for pointers

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Jmeo

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What do you think of the Steeda subframe alignment pins ?

They fit perfectly. Luckily for me my sub frame must have been pretty center because I didn't have to wrestle it at all to get them in.

Three tips on these.

1. There are 2 different sizes in the package. The directions don't even mention this. The shorter, fatter ones are for the front bolts and the slightly taller skinnier ones are for the rear. Thought I'd save some time for you guys and put that right out there.

2. They only fit one way. The directions say this but to ease the confusion just use the first subframe bolt you take out and try and slide the spacer over it. It will only bottom out in one direction because of the counter bore in the spacer. The wrong way and it will not slide completely over the bolt. Easy as that.

3. When tightening the bolts be sure to use the jack to lift the subframe all the way back up. With it dropped even just a little the holes become off center and it will cause the bolt to bind up when going back in. Don't wanna strip these puppies.

Jaime


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These three things needed the subframe lowered in one way or another but the subframe is not touched to do the springs.
You absolutely need to lower at least one side of the subframe at a time to get the rear springs out and the new ones in. In fact I removed both front/rear bolts per side to do each spring. And it helps to remove the toe adjuster too to get the extra drop to get the tall OEM spring out.

And after the Steeda alignment pins are in it can be a pain to line up only one side and get the subframe bolts back in.

You'll see what I mean when you go to do it. Not terrible, but it's some work.


I guess it's possible to remove the aluminum control arms that the springs sit in, but that seems like a lot more work.
 

Brian V

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I have noticed that there are no aftermarket end links for the sway bars .
Do you think that you will be able to utilize the OE end links for your installation or would you have considered BMR 's end links for the sway bars ?
 

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You absolutely need to lower at least one side of the subframe at a time to get the rear springs out and the new ones in. In fact I removed both front/rear bolts per side to do each spring. And it helps to remove the toe adjuster too to get the extra drop to get the tall OEM spring out.

And after the Steeda alignment pins are in it can be a pain to line up only one side and get the subframe bolts back in.

You'll see what I mean when you go to do it. Not terrible, but it's some work.


I guess it's possible to remove the aluminum control arms that the springs sit in, but that seems like a lot more work.

If you follow Fords directions in the service manual you do not touch the subframe bolts. Not saying it isn't more work and even a little harder I'm just saying if you follow the service manual you do not touch them.


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I have noticed that there are no aftermarket end links for the sway bars .
Do you think that you will be able to utilize the OE end links for your installation or would you have considered BMR 's end links for the sway bars ?

BMR has the front ones but I don't think they make the rear ones. Yet hopefully.

But until there are options the factory ones will work fine.


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Nanashii

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BMR has both front and rear sway bar links.


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BMR has both front and rear sway bar links.


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Sweet, thanks. More parts to buy lol


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That stock rear spring will come out a ton easier if you loosen and lower the subframe on each side. Unless you use a spring compressor. I had to drop my rear hangers on my exhaust because the subframe couldn't drop past the 3" pipes. Spring just basically fell out once I did that.
 

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Another tip: for the vertical links, be sure to lower the car with a jack stand under the lower control arm directly under the vertical link. There is a flat spot. I used a lift to lower the car down until the jack stand barely compressed the rear control arm in that exact location. This will release the tension on the vertical link so the bolts will come out easier. Then just hit the bottom of the stock vertical link upwards with a hammer. That was a super easy 20 min for both sides install.
 

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BMR has the front ones but I don't think they make the rear ones. Yet hopefully.

But until there are options the factory ones will work fine.


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HOw Long Did It Take Steeda To Ship Your Sport springs - Progressive and the front and rear sway bars to you ?

I am asking Because I have gotten a back order for the Sport Progressive set of springs that I had Ordered and have recieved a run around about when they would recieve these springs in stock .
Steeda's customer service :headbonk:
 

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I finally got around to opening all the presents I bought myself over the past few months to make heads or tails of what I've got myself into lol.

As you can see I've got my work cut out for me. The only parts I'm still waiting for (and everyone else I'm sure) are my FFRP 1/2 shafts.

I was wondering if anyone has any pointers they may have learned while installing any of these parts.

These are all Steeda parts except the Viking shocks. I bought the BMR CB005 and Polly diff bushing kit but have decided to go with Steeda so if anyone is interested I will be listing these for sale soon in the market place.

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Awesome, Jaime! Seeing all those Steeda goodies ready to be installed just makes our day! Sub'd, can't wait to see the results once these bad boys are installed.

1) get a beer
2) remove rear wheels
3) remove rear shocks
4) remove factory springs
5) install Steeda springs
6) get a beer
7) install IRS bushings
8) install Diff bushings
9) get a beer
10) install subframe alignment kit
11) bolt subframe back together
12) install new shock
13) install subframe braces
14) get a beer
Thanks for the list :)
 
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Jmeo

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Videos for the Steeda vertical links, toe links, and bumpsteer kit are up on CJ Pony Parts You Tube page

Awesome, just as I am Finnish up he last few touches lol.


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