What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[MAGS1]

I want an ST so bad. It would be an excellent daily driver for me as I need the cargo space, but I question the reliability with the kind of miles I do. My Mazda is almost 4 years old and will have 140K by the time the 4 year mark gets here. It got a quick rinseless bath yesterday. ONR Wash and wax. I forgot how much I love that stuff. It works great, and leaves that Carnuba glow

It’s a lot of fun and it’s fast for such a big vehicle. Debating on whether to do the ST SUV Experience this summer, can either go to Asheville or Park City. I bought a Ford ESP for it, more so for all the electronics. A few of my neighbors have ST’s and they’ve got a good amount of miles on them and no issues. I also got feedback from a few members here that have them and it was all positive. The 10 speed is smooth as silk, even in Sport mode.

I’ve got ONR on the shelf, might have to break it out this week. Supposed to be in the 40’s and 50’s with some rain, so will be a good opportunity to get the salt off again. I’m sick of winter already and we still have 2.5+ months to go…

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[skinnyb]

It’s a lot of fun and it’s fast for such a big vehicle. Debating on whether to do the ST SUV Experience this summer, can either go to Asheville or Park City. I bought a Ford ESP for it, more so for all the electronics. A few of my neighbors have ST’s and they’ve got a good amount of miles on them and no issues. I also got feedback from a few members here that have them and it was all positive. The 10 speed is smooth as silk, even in Sport mode.

I’ve got ONR on the shelf, might have to break it out this week. Supposed to be in the 40’s and 50’s with some rain, so will be a good opportunity to get the salt off again. I’m sick of winter already and we still have 2.5+ months to go…

LMK if you go to Asheville, I am from there, only moved to TN in 2020. Lots of cool places there....

As for ONR, I don't like the "blue" ONR, it isn't slick enough to suit me, even version 6, I gave my bottle away I had. But the wash and wax "green" onr and the Opticoat "yellow" are both excellent to me.

 

[MAGS1]

LMK if you go to Asheville, I am from there, only moved to TN in 2020. Lots of cool places there....

As for ONR, I don't like the "blue" ONR, it isn't slick enough to suit me, even version 6, I gave my bottle away I had. But the wash and wax "green" onr and the Opticoat "yellow" are both excellent to me.

I’ve got the blue ONR, I agree it’s not the slickest out there. I’m going to use what I can this winter, then I’ll probably pitch it and get something a little better. I may give Hero a try, I’ve really been pleased with the ADS lineup so far.

 

[skinnyb]

I’ve got the blue ONR, I agree it’s not the slickest out there. I’m going to use what I can this winter, then I’ll probably pitch it and get something a little better. I may give Hero a try, I’ve really been pleased with the ADS lineup so far.

Hero is awesome, especially their new formula that smells like strawberry lemonade, the older worked fine, but the new scent is better . KCx RRW is probably a close second for me. And the new V2 of DIY detail works great. It being surfactant based, cleans amazing, and they ramped up the slickness a bunch. I used it on my Mach 1 Friday evening, it had a few tar spots on the driver side door, and I wanted a little more oomph to clean it off, wiped right off the CARPRO Cquartz coating.

 

[MAGS1]

Hero is awesome, especially their new formula that smells like strawberry lemonade, the older worked fine, but the new scent is better . KCx RRW is probably a close second for me. And the new V2 of DIY detail works great. It being surfactant based, cleans amazing, and they ramped up the slickness a bunch. I used it on my Mach 1 Friday evening, it had a few tar spots on the driver side door, and I wanted a little more oomph to clean it off, wiped right off the CARPRO Cquartz coating.

I’ll likely order a bottle of Hero when I order the ADS coating for the ST. Give that one a shot and go from there.

 

[skinnyb]

Interesting. I LOVE the 2.3, but they upped the game with the 3.0. 18 amps requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit, but having fill and drain plugs for the pump is a really nice benefit. Changing the oil on a 2.3 is a bit messy Will be interesting to see the cost when it finally drops.

 

[Evolvd]

Interesting. I LOVE the 2.3, but they upped the game with the 3.0. 18 amps requires a dedicated 20 amp circuit, but having fill and drain plugs for the pump is a really nice benefit. Changing the oil on a 2.3 is a bit messy Will be interesting to see the cost when it finally drops.

Pretty light on details for a “reveal” lol. No details to be exact.

That being said, these high flow units are causing problems with current foam cannons. Check out Fine Detailing, Cars with Keav, Out of Spec Detailing, and OG….they are all having issues with the AR635. Not saying that applies to the Active but flowing that much water means you need that much more soap.

Just my non-expert opinion but I think 2.0-2.5 is the sweet spot for flow and capability, especially for those who are on 15 amp circuits.

 

[skinnyb]

Pretty light on details for a “reveal” lol. No details to be exact.

That being said, these high flow units are causing problems with current foam cannons. Check out Fine Detailing, Cars with Keav, Out of Spec Detailing, and OG….they are all having issues with the AR635. Not saying that applies to the Active but flowing that much water means you need that much more soap.

Just my non-expert opinion but I think 2.0-2.5 is the sweet spot for flow and capability, especially for those who are on 15 amp circuits.

Agreed, I had to swap all the orfices in my canons to keep the amps below 15 when I went from a 2.0 to a 2.3. My active canon had a 1.45 in the box, I bought 4 1.5 orfices for my 2 PF22.2's, my el cheapo undercarriage sprayer and my cheapo one for brake buster wheel use, I got a 1.4 from ADS for my DRFT, so yeah, spent a small fortune just making the 2.3 work OK... And the 1.5 takes a hot minute to even produce foam once you pull the trigger, whereas the 1.25 did not... As for soap, my Active canon goes thru it like a drunken sailor. A FULL bottle only lasts one go round, whereas the PF22.2, I can foam twice no problem on the same car. Not to mention, having to get new 40 degree tips in the correct size too, and a new turbo nozzle.

 

[Evolvd]

Agreed, I had to swap all the orfices in my canons to keep the amps below 15 when I went from a 2.0 to a 2.3. My active canon had a 1.45 in the box, I bought 4 1.5 orfices for my 2 PF22.2's, my el cheapo undercarriage sprayer and my cheapo one for brake buster wheel use, I got a 1.4 from ADS for my DRFT, so yeah, spent a small fortune just making the 2.3 work OK... And the 1.5 takes a hot minute to even produce foam once you pull the trigger, whereas the 1.25 did not... As for soap, my Active canon goes thru it like a drunken sailor. A FULL bottle only lasts one go round, whereas the PF22.2, I can foam twice no problem on the same car. Not to mention, having to get new 40 degree tips in the correct size too, and a new turbo nozzle.

Yeah that’s something else people seem to not take into consideration…having to upgrade your whole kit just to run a high-flow PW. Keav even noticed that changing out the hose made a difference in the AR635 foaming performance.

I’m sure somebody will figure out the 635 eventually and that knowledge will likely carry forward for units yet to come. Until then I’ll stick to my Active 2.0. Don’t fix it if it ain’t broken lol

 

[skinnyb]

Yeah that’s something else people seem to not take into consideration…having to upgrade your whole kit just to run a high-flow PW. Keav even noticed that changing out the hose made a difference in the AR635 foaming performance.

I’m sure somebody will figure out the 635 eventually and that knowledge will likely carry forward for units yet to come. Until then I’ll stick to my Active 2.0. Don’t fix it if it ain’t broken lol

Exactly Mine was broken though :( Mine started leaking oil out of the pump, I submitted for warranty, meantime I ordered a 2.3 to replace it. Warranty finally came thru and I got a replacment 2.0 in my building still in the box for a backup. And I pulled my old 2.0 apart, cleaned it up and changed the oil in it. So I actually got (2) 2.0 units never can have too many backups

I have not had any issues with hose or any other equipment, my Kobrajet hose still works fantastic..

 

[skinnyb]

It’s a lot of fun and it’s fast for such a big vehicle. Debating on whether to do the ST SUV Experience this summer, can either go to Asheville or Park City. I bought a Ford ESP for it, more so for all the electronics. A few of my neighbors have ST’s and they’ve got a good amount of miles on them and no issues. I also got feedback from a few members here that have them and it was all positive. The 10 speed is smooth as silk, even in Sport mode.

I’ve got ONR on the shelf, might have to break it out this week. Supposed to be in the 40’s and 50’s with some rain, so will be a good opportunity to get the salt off again. I’m sick of winter already and we still have 2.5+ months to go…

I just saw an ad for the Ford Performance school ironically. Amazing how ads just randomly show up LOL. Anyway, I see the Asheville one is on Biltmore Property. If you get the chance to go there, and then go to the house, it is amazing. Expensive for tickets, but a totally one of a kind place. I've been there as a native only twice (inside the house), but been on the property dozens of times in my line of work servicing equipment over the years, it is really a beautiful place.

 

[MAGS1]

I just saw an ad for the Ford Performance school ironically. Amazing how ads just randomly show up LOL. Anyway, I see the Asheville one is on Biltmore Property. If you get the chance to go there, and then go to the house, it is amazing. Expensive for tickets, but a totally one of a kind place. I've been there as a native only twice (inside the house), but been on the property dozens of times in my line of work servicing equipment over the years, it is really a beautiful place.

Good to know! Trying to decide if I’m going to go, we have a busy summer baseball schedule this year. Starting to plan out some college visits too, maybe a college visit takes us out that way.

 

[DFB5.0]

Volvo XC60 B6 – Full Reset Detail

It’s been a while since I’ve had this car in the garage, which also means a while since its been washed……………………. I’m the only one allowed to touch this vehicle. Brand new in 2023, my sister had it coated with Carpro Cquartz Professional shortly after delivery. Not a lot gets said about Carpro coatings in the enthusiast/pro-sumer scene, but Cquartz Professional is the best coating I’ve come across for the way it responds to chemicals, which means it’s easier to clean and ultra durable. I'm always amazed at how much grime is removed by a simple pressure wash, not to mention the next level hydrophobics. I guess pro-grade coatings aren’t just a marketing concept.

Since it was coated, I’ve been maintaining the car with a two-stage wash (pre-soak and contact wash), then topped with EliXir or Reload depending on what I last used. For this detail, I wanted to go a bit deeper, a reset if you will. The interior was also due for some added attention. In keeping with the Carpro theme, the products used today will follow suit.

The photos don't fully show how putridly dirty these wheels were.

Wheels & Tyres -

Sadly, these wheels weren’t coated with the rest of the car, same with the glass. I can cope without a glass coating, I really don’t see the point there. However, I wouldn’t dread cleaning these wheels if they’d been coated. That’s because of the super dusty brake pads, the hidden lip behind the spokes and the sheer size of the things. So, I always need the nuclear bomb to deal with them.

For the pre-clean, I grabbed Carpro WheelX. I hate this product, but considering the Carpro theme I decided to peg my nose and give it another go. And…………….I still absolutely hate this stuff. I love Carpro products, but this is the worst smelling detailing product I have ever encountered, and it’s not balanced by added effectiveness above other competitors. The stench is so revolting that those inside the house could smell it, and I still had it up my nose as I after a shower. I used up most of the bottle, the rest is going in the bin. Do not buy.

I then foamed P&S Brake Buster over the WheelX, allowed to soak, then rinsed. From here, I scrubbed the tyres with Shine Supply Wise Guy, then foamed again with Brake Buster for the contact washing with an assortment of brushes. Another Carpro product, this time Hydr02, primarily to assist drying and gloss enhancement. These spray and rinse sealants don’t offer much protection, and the pH tolerance window is extremely narrow.

I just wish I had the time to remove, properly clean and coat these 21-inch wheels.

Engine Bay -

The key to engine bays is regularity. Every time I have the Volvo in the garage, I always hose off the engine bay to remove dust. I’d normally follow with an APC and agitation using a brush, but it's just not needed on this car, likewise a dressing.

While I’m at it, I top off the windscreen fluid reservoir. And that’s all there is to do under there, you can’t even check the oil as there is no dipstick. The residual engine heat dried things off, but I did later go over it with some Carpro ECH20.

Exterior Decontamination & Wash –

Apart from alkaline pre-wash soaps, I haven’t had to decontaminate this coating over the last few years. Considering the length of time between washes, I’m very impressed how the coating has rejected contaminants so far. Normally, a lack of washing or neglect will kill a coating.

To start with, I decided to foam with Carpro Descale and allowed it to soak. After a rinse, I found there was still some road grime left on the lowers, so I went back in with alkalinity. Because I’d used up the remainder of Carpro Lift in the wheel bucket, and after the hideousness of WheelX, I treated the neighbourhood with the sandalwood scented Koch Chemie Active Foam. Again, this was allowed to dwell, then rinsed off. That sorted it. I was sort of experimenting with chemical sequence here, in hindsight I should have gone alkaline first, which is better at cutting through dirt, then went acidic for mineral deposits. With an almost clean surface, it was time for the contact wash using Carpro Reset, another scented treat.

To dry, it was tandem EGO blowers, the terrible LB530 and the excellent LB765. While little sister was vacuuming (which I always hate), I went around and applied another Carpro product, Reload 2.0. Then more ECH20 for the door jambs. On these Volvo’s, they accumulate road film on the rear door jambs, around the wheel arch in particular. I always pressure wash this area to remove as much as possible, but I’ve found I need tar remover like Eulex to fully remove this stuff. Every car has an area like this that needs a specific approach.

For the exterior glass, I stayed on brand and used Carpro ClarifyPhobic. I hate this stuff, but without existing product on the glass, I wanted to see how it would play. It’s still a hard NO! A glass cleaner that leaves haze and streaking behind is completely useless and ultimately defies the point. Even my sister asked if she could clean the exterior glass again, and I was like "go ahead, I was going to anyway". Even with 80% of the bottle remaining, ClarifyPhobic will be joining WheelX in the rubbish bin. You have to wonder how both of those products escaped the laboratory like that.

Interior –

With the vacuuming and floor mats cleaned while I was busy elsewhere, that left the fun bits for me. The plastics and door trims were wiped down with Carpo InnerQD. Interior glass was cleaned with Koch Chemie RRW (which was also used for the second pass on the exterior after the ClarifyPhobic disaster). As per going the extra mile on the exterior, the main project for the interior was the leather. I did briefly consider grabbing the Carpo leather products, but both cleaner and conditioner are very underwhelming. So, out came the ColourLock duo, only the best for this car.

I have both Strong and Mild versions of the leather cleaner, but unless you are trying to cut through years of neglect, the Mild is all you need. Both are foaming products, which are teamed with the specific Colourlock brush and wiped clear with an interior towel. The seats, steering wheel and console lid were all cleaned like that, I don’t bother doing the door trims. Once those areas were clean and dry, I went around and applied ColourLock Leather Shield, which is an abrasion and dye transfer blocker designed for leather under 3-years of age. Next year, I will switch to ColourLock Leather Milk Protector.

I know that a few new leather brands have popped up in recent years, but I don’t think that has relegated the ColourLock products to also-ran statis. The only problem for some if finding them in stock. When Koch Chemie purchased ColourLock a few years ago, there were promises made about streamlining distribution……………….....well that just hasn’t happened, in the USA its actually gotten worse. I love Koch Chemie, but they are basically running the ColourLock brand into the ground. Shame.

I just love how the ColourLock products leave leather feeling clean, smooth, soft and supple, while the absence of gloss is the cherry on top. Naturally, the quality of the Volvo materials makes a huge difference too, but when you use a top-level product like this, it makes all the difference. A leather product from the likes of Autoglym or Meguiars would look completely out of place on this interior.

Finishing Touches –

Seeing as I already had the Eulex out from earlier, I wanted to try something I heard DJ from Armour Detail Supply recommend. I normally use Tarminator or Mineral Spirits to do a reset clean on tyres, however, DJ somehow discovered Eulex can be used for the same role. And wow, what a discovery!

The key thing with any of these tar removers is the solvent nature of them. That means they quickly and easily dissolve any remaining residue still on the tyre, even after a heavy duty rubber cleaner was used earlier. So, instead of going round after round using a brush and an alkaline degreaser attempting to fully clean a tyre, 30-seconds using a solvent like this does the same thing……………except even better.

Compared to Tarminator or Mineral Spirits, you use way less product to do the same task, and you get a better finished result. Simply apply a small amount to a towel, then rub the side wall until the product evaporates. The end result is a completely bare rubber surface, you could probably leave it that way and be completely happy with the look. But………………I still went ahead with a very light layer of Capro Darkside.

Following that, the wheels was given a quick wipe with ADS Amplify, and the tyre pressures topped up.

Before -

After Eulex -

Dressed -

Finished Result -

Four hours later, a refreshed XC60 was the result.................

 

[DFB5.0]

Some recent car pics..................

The FGX XR8 turned 11-years-old last November..........................

This was the most advanced engine Ford ever made in Australia.....................actually, the best engine ever made in Australia, period.

Granted, there were faster and more powerful Australian-made vehicles, but those engines were sent here in wooden boxes. The main castings for the 5.0 Miami V8 also come in boxes, but there was a high content of Australian-designed and manufactured parts, not to mention each engine being hand built by a single technician at either the FPV factory, or later the Geelong engine plant.

And what a shame this engine never reached its full potential, likewise that Australia no longer makes things like this.

 

[DFB5.0]

Still 13 days till he comes home, but my little man is growing fast.

The first vet checkup, vaccination and microchip last week.............................

The spoiling has already began........................

And these were taken this afternoon..........................

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