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I'm kinda in the same boat. However, the OE shocks on my non-PP '16 GT at 53k miles were done so I knew I was working on the suspension first. I just bought this car over the summer and is my first Mustang, so I don't necessarily know how non-PP cars drive when new. But this thing was almost scary when I upped the pace at all. I went with Steeda minimum drop linear springs (somebody mentioned progressive elsewhere, but I believe they only come in linear flavor for min. drop) paired with their adjustable pro-action shocks/struts. I did the build your own package so the fronts came preassembled with their camber plates, new bearings, isolators, etc. I also installed the IRS alignment dowel and bushing support kits at the same time. I had the shop do a custom alignment that isn't terribly aggressive, but still gives me the feedback I want.So i was I'm going to get some Steeda lowering springs and wheels, but what mod would make sense after that in terms of handling/suspension? In an ideal world where i had no kids and a mortgage, I'd do all at once, but here i am. I'm not tracking but do occasional spirited driving to and from work. I also deal with hilly twisty bits but my days of testing my mettle are behind me. I just want the car to feel planted. Thoughts?
I'm kinda in the same boat. However, the OE shocks on my non-PP '16 GT at 53k miles were done so I knew I was working on the suspension first. I just bought this car over the summer and is my first Mustang, so I don't necessarily know how non-PP cars drive when new. But this thing was almost scary when I upped the pace at all. I went with Steeda minimum drop linear springs (somebody mentioned progressive elsewhere, but I believe they only come in linear flavor for min. drop) paired with their adjustable pro-action shocks/struts. I did the build your own package so the fronts came preassembled with their camber plates, new bearings, isolators, etc. I also installed the IRS alignment dowel and bushing support kits at the same time. I had the shop do a custom alignment that isn't terribly aggressive, but still gives me the feedback I want.
This car is my DD that, like you, I'll do some spirited driving with. I intend to do the odd track day here or there eventually, but not enough to make it a dedicated track tool. The primary reason I got the adjustable shocks/struts is for when I do finally get on track and can play a bit with those settings. I think the 0.5" min drop is just the right amount and is not harsh at all for street use. This suspension combo controls bumps and the car so much better than before - I am very happy with this setup. Along with the IRS upgrades it's safe to say the handling on this thing has been transformed.
Wheels are the dinky 255/40-19 on 8.5" square setup. I just had new Bridgestone A/S tires spooned on for now, and will be sourcing a new wheel/tire setup for summer use in the next few months. I popped on the FP strut tower and rear cowl brace recently, could have gone aftermarket but I want to keep the engine bay as close to OE as possible. After all that I'll probably look into stiffer sway bars next. I'm trying to spread out the expenses, but it's hard haha...
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looks like mine but with nicer wheels!I'm kinda in the same boat. However, the OE shocks on my non-PP '16 GT at 53k miles were done so I knew I was working on the suspension first. I just bought this car over the summer and is my first Mustang, so I don't necessarily know how non-PP cars drive when new. But this thing was almost scary when I upped the pace at all. I went with Steeda minimum drop linear springs (somebody mentioned progressive elsewhere, but I believe they only come in linear flavor for min. drop) paired with their adjustable pro-action shocks/struts. I did the build your own package so the fronts came preassembled with their camber plates, new bearings, isolators, etc. I also installed the IRS alignment dowel and bushing support kits at the same time. I had the shop do a custom alignment that isn't terribly aggressive, but still gives me the feedback I want.
This car is my DD that, like you, I'll do some spirited driving with. I intend to do the odd track day here or there eventually, but not enough to make it a dedicated track tool. The primary reason I got the adjustable shocks/struts is for when I do finally get on track and can play a bit with those settings. I think the 0.5" min drop is just the right amount and is not harsh at all for street use. This suspension combo controls bumps and the car so much better than before - I am very happy with this setup. Along with the IRS upgrades it's safe to say the handling on this thing has been transformed.
Wheels are the dinky 255/40-19 on 8.5" square setup. I just had new Bridgestone A/S tires spooned on for now, and will be sourcing a new wheel/tire setup for summer use in the next few months. I popped on the FP strut tower and rear cowl brace recently, could have gone aftermarket but I want to keep the engine bay as close to OE as possible. After all that I'll probably look into stiffer sway bars next. I'm trying to spread out the expenses, but it's hard haha...
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Yeah I thought we were talking about going fast drag racing.. you want 0 camber in rear and Normal -.50 or -1.0 in front at most. If this topic is about track Racing or normal driving then sure your right. I am talking about drag racing. Sorry if I misunderstood the OPBy “bad” I guess you mean you dont want it to handle well. Camber on a strut car is gods gift to cornering. You want 2+ degrees in the front and a bit less in the rear if you want it planted.
Theres nothing crazy at all about stock negative camber its extremely mild, like most street cars. I’m seriously confused as to what your goals are if you think the stock negative camber numbers are crazy. Most normal lowering kits dont give what I would consider even remotely excessive camber. Depends on how much you lower it though…