Lowering Springs Then What?

[Nightmonkey]

@Mum4rdV8
Which tire and wheels size do you have now?
Depending on this, wheels could be the first step, maybe wait until you need new tires anyway.

You wouldn't be the first person to do everything or much straight away and then complain about a lack of comfort afterwards.

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[Mum4rdV8]

@Mum4rdV8
Which tire and wheels size do you have now?
Depending on this, wheels could be the first step, maybe wait until you need new tires anyway.

You wouldn't be the first person to do everything or much straight away and then complain about a lack of comfort afterwards.

Currently stock 18” 235 Pirelli. Goal is to be on 19” 285s all around.

 

[Nightmonkey]

19" or 20" wheels with proper tires will make a big difference.

Over here most would not consider 285 all around, but a staggered setup.
Why not 255 front and 275 rear like OEM Performance Pack option?
Are there OEM rims, that you like (e.g. GT PP, Bullitt, GT/CS, Mach1)?
With the above tire size 19x9 front 19x9,5 rear is the GT setup, 19x9,5 front 19x10 rear on the Mach1 (w/o Track Pack).
Takeoff wheels are often a good deal.

 

[Nightmonkey]

There are takeoffs from a S650, that will fit, only 2 h away from you:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326293401333
https://www.ebay.com/itm/276660587204
I guess there are better classifieds for this kind of stuff?

 

[Mum4rdV8]

19" or 20" wheels with proper tires will make a big difference.

Over here most would not consider 285 all around, but a staggered setup.
Why not 255 front and 275 rear like OEM Performance Pack option?
Are there OEM rims, that you like (e.g. GT PP, Bullitt, GT/CS, Mach1)?
With the above tire size 19x9 front 19x9,5 rear is the GT setup, 19x9,5 front 19x10 rear on the Mach1 (w/o Track Pack).
Takeoff wheels are often a good deal.

Yeah, originally considered 285 front 305 rear and they’re still in the mix. I do mostly commuting driving so getting most out of tires is important. I’m open to the 255/275 setup as you suggested as well.

 

[Nightmonkey]

For aftermarked maybe go with Shelby CS5 19x9,5 275/40R19 front and 19x10,5 305/35R19 rear (not sure if narrower tires makes sense with this widths).
https://carrollshelbyracing.com/wheels/shelby-wheels/carroll-shelby-wheels-cs5/
They are offered in Chrome, Gunmetal and Black.

Getting most out of the tires depends on tires and driving style.
My feeling is, that the Michelin PS4, that came on my Bullitt, last unexpected long.

If it does not drive sporty enough with the new wheels, go for suspension mods.

 

[MD18EcoStang]

Over here most would not consider 285 all around, but a staggered setup.

Hmm, that's actually not unpopular "over here." A big advantage to square is the ability to rotate, which might interest someone concerned about wear. Also, handling is very good.

 

[Mach VII]

I am in the "get new wheels" camp before suspension. 285/35 on 10" wide wheels is the cheat code and 'square' setup so you can rotate front to back. Your choice of 19 or 20" wheels et 35 or 40.

If you insist on suspension consider this kit from Steeda using their minimum drop springs - https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-2423-s550-lowering-springs-bilstein-dampers

 

[Nightmonkey]

Hmm, that's actually not unpopular "over here."

GT EU spec does not exist with square setup from factory, that's why almost noone considers it in Europe.
Only our 4 bangers got that, 19" 255 all around.
Tried it for winter season tires (255)... nope!

A big advantage to square is the ability to rotate, which might interest someone concerned about wear.

There is no cost disadvantage in replacing the worn axle without rotating it.

As the rear axle is the one that provides the track, the rear should be replaced before the tread is too low.
Rotating the tires by axle in this case can reduce the overall grip level (e.g. in the rain).
Regardless of this, the tires seem to wear quite evenly with the 255/275 combination.

Also, handling is very good.

Yes!
Wide in the front and the back is for the track what you want, because of the better driving dynamics. But for a daily with a common driver, it can be a disadvantage.

 

[junits15]

I haven't seen this said directly but springs alone will be lackluster. They can cause more issues than they solve if not paired with other suspension stuff. I'd probably suggest just skipping the springs entirely and get the wheels and tires you want if money is an issue.

When you drop the car you change the geometry, you can run into issues with bump-steer, roll center and camber. The factory setup doesn't have front camber adjustment. A smaller drop will minimize these issues, but they'll still be there. Also the factory shocks aren't meant to be lowered on, so they can fail early or have really bad performance.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Also, the car had a 305/35/19 tire vs the OEM 275/40/19 tire, which is .3" in diameter less.

Here are some more photos.

 

[Canadian Crimson]

Thanks. I’m considering this kit from Steeda but not sure if I need the shock/struts right now or just wait until the stock ones need replacing. To be honest I’m just trying to get the wheel gap and stance right but understand by making one change can alter other things.

Steeda S550 Mustang Progressive Lowering Springs, Camber Plate, Non-Adjustable Shocks & Strut Combo Kit (2015-2023)

This is exactly what I have on mine. As well the centering dowels and bushing supports were done previously. Rides great as far as I am concerned, every bit as good if not better than stock.

 

[tj@steeda]

Mum4rdv8 - give me a shout if you have any questions, I can put you in contact with our Steeda Supension Team - how many miles do you have on the OE shocks & struts?

 

[Mum4rdV8]

Thanks! Vehicle has 24,600, 4k of that is mine. Previous owner has no record of suspension work so have to figure it’s all OE.

 

[tj@steeda]

Depending on when you want to get the work done, do it all at once - Camber Plates, Shocks/Struts, etc. - you probably have a good life span left on them ... so if a good sale pops up now & between Christmas, it might be worth upgrading if the price is right :0

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