A10 Fluid Check/Fill questions.

[jcm3]

I used some welding gloves. Dumb that we have to resort to something like that, but I guess it is what it is.

I read about how a lot of these transmissions are low, and after getting it up to operating temp, I did have to add a quart. I just did it from the bottom, was pretty quick and easy wtih the little pump you screw into the threads on the top of the bottle.

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[Coyotebawl]

Just out of curiosity , is the 10r80 dipstick any easier to get to check the level with long tube headers vs the stock configuration?

 

[Bizantino]

To remove the dipstick for the first time(it's very tight from factory), Ford manual sends you to below link. I just changed my transmission fluid in my driveway and this was the only way I could remove it:
In all my research no one was removing the dipstick this way but it is the recommended way and I can see why, very easy with a couple extensions and a flexible socket.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/videos/WorkShopManual/V34.mp4

Be ready to turn with all you got unless you use a breaker bar or something, is unnecessarily tight.

Now, to check the level with the car in normal operating temperature I used latex gloves and put a piece of cardboard against the catalytic to make sure my hand didn't touch it.
That's probably the worst part... Engine hot, you go under, remove that dipstick, measure, its low, go on the hood (I attached the rubber hose from the pump to a bar to guide it from the hood into the filling hole, I found that easier than filling below the car with no space), insert hose and pump some more, install dipstick , run the car, turn car off, go down again...
Mine was underfilled from factory by about a quart and some.
If I have the chance today I will post the full manual instructions from Ford for this.

 

[qwiknotch]

Has anyone just cut the floor and made a trap door with a clasp or dzus fasteners? All you would have to do is take the passenger seat out to check levels.

 

[Keeffa]

Has anyone just cut the floor and made a trap door with a clasp or dzus fasteners? All you would have to do is take the passenger seat out to check levels.

Mmmm. Interesting idea.

 

[GTP]

My tips found in Posts #37 to #39.

Also, I use old oven mitts for heat protection.

 

[cjatrains]

Good thread here. I am past the 1/2 way point on my drain/filter change/fill procedure on my 2022 Mach 1.

Car has 12,000 miles, one dealer wanted to flush, another dealer warned against flushing but wanted $550 to drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Not going to happen.

Managed to get my plug dipstick cap to break loose with a flex head ratcheting box wrench with a cheater on the open end.

Decided to order the Mightyvac MV7300 8 Liter pneumatic fluid evacuation pump/tank off of Amazon for about $120. Also ordered the Motive products 1735 Pro, fluid tank and pump 1 gallon capacity can be charged with compressed air.

The MV7300 did a great job sucking the fluid out, got 5 liters, about 5.2 quarts. Dropped the pan and filter, carefully measured all the old ATF. In my case, I have around 7.25 quarts of old fluid. Total A10 capacity is published at 13 quarts as far as I can tell

Yes I purchased a set of the 7,000 pound Quick Jacks 5 years ago, have totally gotten my investment back on those.

Car has been to maybe 15 track days at LRP and WGI. About 2 years ago, I was getting harsh shifts, upshifting from 4-5th was the worst. Over the past 2 years, I changed the way I drove the car and that problem has virtually disappeared, more on that later...

Am I glad I dropped the pan and filter and fluid, Absolutely. Fluid was dark red, doesn't smell burnt, the magnet in the pan only had small to moderate build up of "break in wear metals" on it. I removed them with white paper towels and put them in a baggie. I plan to store the filter in a separate baggie, in case I ever have A10 issues.

I really wanted to get the filter out of the pan before anymore contamination would keep circulating especially on track. I did notice as I got to the bottom of the fluid in the pan, I could see metallic contamination in the fluid, not a horrific amount, but noticable.

The filter has both fine and coarse media in it, as well as it's own magnet, which tells me the designers were concerned about contamination. That just tells me the cleaner and cooler I keep that fluid the better chance I have of long term service.

Going to pump in the new Ford Motorcraft ULV fluid today and go for a test drive get everything up to temp and then screw with checking the fluid level.

I reported my really harsh up shifting to my local dealer almost 2 years ago. Ironically, or not, it happened when I was coming home from the track. It happened on and off, intermittently, typically acting up more when I put the A10 in Shift mode.

Dealer wanted to start the lengthy analysis procedure, I didn't have that much faith in the whole Ford protocol and wasn't dying to give them the car.

Over the past 18-24 months, I started a new practice, which has made the harsh shift symptoms disappear.

I drive the car in D mode, and Normal Mode, until the transmission fluid is up to temperature. If I go to the track, I make sure everything is up to operating temperature before I leave the pits.

Even driving locally I have followed this practice, I don't start switching to Sport + mode, or S, Paddle shift mode, until the car is completely warmed up.

Now that I have done this consistently for 18 months + I can't remember the last time it violently bucked. Is it a little inconvenient yeah ! Is it worth it to me, yeah. Not dying to have them start tearing into my A10, as I really don't have any confidence that they exactly know what the problems are or are not.

I figure the $210 I spent on Mightyvac and Motive Products tools will enable me to regularly to fluid drains and refills.

 

[TXGTPig]

Over the past 18-24 months, I started a new practice, which has made the harsh shift symptoms disappear.

I drive the car in D mode, and Normal Mode, until the transmission fluid is up to temperature. If I go to the track, I make sure everything is up to operating temperature before I leave the pits.

Even driving locally I have followed this practice, I don't start switching to Sport + mode, or S, Paddle shift mode, until the car is completely warmed up.

Now that I have done this consistently for 18 months + I can't remember the last time it violently bucked. Is it a little inconvenient yeah ! Is it worth it to me, yeah. Not dying to have them start tearing into my A10, as I really don't have any confidence that they exactly know what the problems are or are not.

I'm a big proponent of not beating on my stuff until it's up to operating temperature. I had my fluid changed at my local performance shop recently, as I had to replace my short block, long story. They did note that it was about 1.5 quarts low. It shifts way better now and doesn't act sporadically. Only wonky thing it still does is rev high (4-4.5K) in first, before shifting, when making a 90° right or left turn from a dead stop at very little throttle input.

 

[GTP]

... Only wonky thing it still does is rev high (4-4.5K) in first, before shifting, when making a 90° right or left turn from a dead stop at very little throttle input.

Mine does that, kind of. I wish it would just start out in 2nd gear. I drive around town in Normal exclusively.

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