How can I still achieve proper handling without a sway bar?

[khanks]

You could run a low boost turbo setup and not have to worry about removing the sway bar at all, as there won’t be a need to piggyback off of the harmonic balancer at all.

I think the kit I’m getting will be making 10psi of boost the way they send it…is 10 to much for the stock crank to handle or would it be fine I never thought about the insurance side of it

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

I think the kit I’m getting will be making 10psi of boost the way they send it…is 10 to much for the stock crank to handle or would it be fine I never thought about the insurance side of it

No, I don’t think 10 lbs is too much for the factory crank. The only concern I would have is adding the extra weight onto the front of the (already heavy) factory harmonic balancer. If it throws off harmonics, the crank could possibly break. I believe that’s why Procharger designed that support bracket. That’s why I said if it were me, I’d want that bracket. You might be fine without it and you might not.

There might be an option to retain the front sway bar, but it would require some fabrication and welding. That option would be to precisely cut off both ends of the sway bar, add extension pieces of the same diameter tubing on both sides (you can use a donor sway bar to cut off pieces) to extend the bar out enough to clear the Procharger bracket, drill both ends of the extension bars and factory bar, pin them to join them back together for strength and then weld them back up. Next, have mounting plates fabricated for the sway bar bushing brackets welded on which move the bar out the same distance as the extension pieces drill and tap them to mount the bushing brackets and you should be all set.

 

[khanks]

No, I don’t think 10 lbs is too much for the factory crank. The only concern I would have is adding the extra weight onto the front of the (already heavy) factory harmonic balancer. If it throws off harmonics, the crank could possibly break. I believe that’s why Procharger designed that support bracket. That’s why I said if it were me, I’d want that bracket. You might be fine without it and you might not.

There might be an option to retain the front sway bar, but it would require some fabrication and welding. That option would be to precisely cut off both ends of the sway bar, add extension pieces of the same diameter tubing on both sides (you can use a donor sway bar to cut off pieces) to extend the bar out enough to clear the Procharger bracket, drill both ends of the extension bars and factory bar, pin them to join them back together for strength and then weld them back up. Next, have mounting plates fabricated for the sway bar bushing brackets welded on which move the bar out the same distance as the extension pieces drill and tap them to mount the bushing brackets and you should be all set.

Yea I’ve experimented with welding the sway bar but I’m Concerned with how the words would hold up to the constant twisting/flexing as I turn

 

[NGOT8R]

Yea I’ve experimented with welding the sway bar but I’m Concerned with how the words would hold up to the constant twisting/flexing as I turn

I would make a new thread to see if there are any metallurgists and welders on this forum and run that idea by them to see if it’s either feasible or a horrible idea.

 

[robvas]

Find a shop to make you one

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/how-to-make-a-custom-sway-bar/

https://www.addco.net/addco-custom-bar-design-request/

etc

 

[khanks]

Find a shop to make you one

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/how-to-make-a-custom-sway-bar/

https://www.addco.net/addco-custom-bar-design-request/

etc

What’s better a solid sway bar or tubular

 

[NGOT8R]

Have you tried reaching out to Procharger to see what they say about your concern being an issue?

Roughly how much clearance is needed for the bar to clear the bracket? This might also be something that Procharger can answer for you.

I’m thinking outside of the box some more here, but what about cutting out the center section of the sway bar (making it a 2 piece) and still bolting it in place using the bushings and bushing mounts. It would be there to help mitigate body roll during those times when you may take a curve a little too hot.

As I’ve mentioned, my car handles great without a front sway bar, I can still switch lanes without worry at normal highway speeds. I can even snap over a lane as if to dodge debris on the interstate and it still handles very well.

 

[khanks]

Have you tried reaching out to Procharger to see what they say about your concern being an issue?

Roughly how much clearance is needed for the bar to clear the bracket? This might also be something that Procharger can answer for you.

I’m thinking outside of the box some more here, but what about cutting out the center section of the sway bar (making it a 2 piece) and still bolting it in place using the bushings and bushing mounts. It would be there to help mitigate body roll during those times when you may take a curve a little too hot.

As I’ve mentioned, my car handles great without a front sway bar, I can still switch lanes without worry at normal highway speeds. I can even snap over a lane as if to dodge debris on the interstate and it still handles very well.

Can you explain how cutting into two would work? Wouldn’t both sides need to be connected for proper operation of the sway bar?

 

[NGOT8R]

What’s better a solid sway bar or tubular

I’m gonna go with solid, as the front sway bar is heavy. I forgot what the weights of the front and rear bars are. I actually gave mine to a member on here for free to put on his EcoBoost track car. He was very familiar with the diameters of my Bullitt‘s sway bars vs his EcoBoost sway bars. He immediately told me that they would be an upgrade to what he had in his car.

 

[robvas]

What’s better a solid sway bar or tubular

Tubular is lighter but larger diameter. Most of your front bars will be tubular with the rears solid

 

[NGOT8R]

I just looked up the thread and removing my front bar shed 17.3 lbs from the front end.

It took some finagling to get it out too. I can’t imagine putting one in would be any easier.

 

[khanks]

I just looked up the thread and removing my front bar shed 17.3 lbs from the front end.

It took some finagling to get it out too. I can’t imagine putting one in would be any easier.

I just spoke to pro charger for about 45 minutes he said I should be fine not running the crank support he said most people who get them are making closer to the 4 digit numbers in hp scale, I also asked if my stock 2nd gen block can handle the power he insisted that I’ll have no issues making 775 on a stock block in alittle iffy about that , and our last big topic we talked about was he told me the tuner that comes with the kit won’t work on my car bc I have looks high flow cats I wanted him to explain why but he couldn’t really do so any one know what’s up with that?

 

[NGOT8R]

I just spoke to pro charger for about 45 minutes he said I should be fine not running the crank support he said most people who get them are making closer to the 4 digit numbers in hp scale, I also asked if my stock 2nd gen block can handle the power he insisted that I’ll have no issues making 775 on a stock block in alittle iffy about that , and our last big topic we talked about was he told me the tuner that comes with the kit won’t work on my car bc I have looks high flow cats I wanted him to explain why but he couldn’t really do so any one know what’s up with that?

Give yourself a little extra margin of safety if the Procharger rep seemed iffy about 775 whp. Maybe settle on 700 ish for peace of mind.

As for cats, I don’t know how different Kooks high flow cats are that Ultimate Headers high flow cats, but I blew mine out on a 1/4 mile pass. I caught it immediately before any damage to the engine occurred. I think the cats were in there as an interference fit and they just let go. I’ve seen cats glued in before and mine did not look like that when they failed.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-failure-and-broken-weld-on-mid-pipe.191891/

 

[khanks]

Give yourself a little extra margin of safety if the Procharger rep seemed iffy about 775 whp. Maybe settle on 700 ish for peace of mind.

As for cats, I don’t know how different Kooks high flow cats are that Ultimate Headers high flow cats, but I blew mine out on a 1/4 mile pass. I caught it immediately before any damage to the engine occurred. I think the cats were in there as an interference fit and they just let go. I’ve seen cats glued in before and mine did not look like that when they failed.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-failure-and-broken-weld-on-mid-pipe.191891/

Are you procharged?

 

[NGOT8R]

Are you procharged?

No, I have nitrous, but aside from when I was tuning, I’ve probably used a total of 5-6 bottles In 4 years. I was on a nitrous pass (150 shot with E85 in the tank), when the failure occurred though. Power wise, my car dyno’d at 639 whp/602 wtq, which is about 709 hp at the crank.

To be totally transparent, I do have an N2MB Wot Box on the car too, so that could have been a contributing factor for the failure as well, but there’s no way to tell for sure, as there have been other cat failures without the use of 2-Step devices.

Sponsored