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How can I still achieve proper handling without a sway bar?

K4fxd

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What’s that?
Drag you want in front zero or close to it rebound with high compression. In the rear you want low compression and high rebound.

You want the front to rise, the rear to squat and for it to stay that way. Up to a point. This is one reason they make adjustable shocks.

Stiffer springs will help with body roll which is what you asked.

Again call steeda or another company that races mustangs and ask them.

@tj@steeda
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khanks

khanks

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Weight transfer, you don't want the car laying flat. Stiff front springs won't let the front come up.

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Drag you want in front zero or close to it rebound with high compression. In the rear you want low compression and high rebound.

You want the front to rise, the rear to squat and for it to stay that way. Up to a point. This is one reason they make adjustable shocks.

Stiffer springs will help with body roll which is what you asked.

Again call steeda or another company that races mustangs and ask them.
Correct me if I’m wrong but it sounds like you’re implying I’m dragging the car? My plan for the car is street use so ideally I want all 4 wheels on the ground at all times. I never plan on launching the car if anything I would do a 40 roll.
 

NGOT8R

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Do you have after market springs or is everything oem
I have aftermarket springs and a drag race sway bar in the rear only and factory Magneride springs up front.
 
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khanks

khanks

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I have aftermarket springs and a drag race sway bar in the rear only and factory Magneride springs up front.
Yea idk if I should even touch my rear it’s already on lowering springs I more worried about the front I also don’t have magnaride maybe me taking off my sway bar won’t be as bad as I’m thinking
 

NGOT8R

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Yea idk if I should even touch my rear it’s already on lowering springs I more worried about the front I also don’t have magnaride maybe me taking off my sway bar won’t be as bad as I’m thinking
I say try the disconnect at one end link first and push the car a little through the interstate entrance/exit loops and see how it feels. If you don’t feel it’s too bad, then you’ll know it’s safer to remove it.

You are in a tough spot though, in that you want to run the crank support vs not running one. If I were in your shoes and deciding on a SC, I would want the crank support too.
 

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robvas

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You sure?
Why would I be?

Drag struts help keep the front up, if your springs are too stiff it's not going to come up in the first place. Struts will help keep the front down but the springs are going to be more of a factor
 
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khanks

khanks

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Why would I be?

Drag struts help keep the front up, if your springs are too stiff it's not going to come up in the first place. Struts will help keep the front down but the springs are going to be more of a factory.
I was thinking the same thing that’s why I’m confused
 

robvas

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I would just avoid the crank support...how many busted cranks have been posted here?
 

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robvas

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There's nothing stopping you from taking your front sway bar off now and driving it around and seeing how it feels (unless it's snowing where you live)
 

K4fxd

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If I have a 100 Lb/inch spring and a 200 Lb/in spring. Which one will lift the front faster?

The damper with high compression will keep the front up longer.

If I have 100 Lb/in springs in the rear or 200 Lb/inch which one will compress faster? A damper with high rebound will keep the rear down longer.

So if these are my choices I would use the 200 Lb spring with a high compression damper in the front and a 100 Lb spring with high rebound in the rear.

The above for drag racing.
 

K4fxd

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put the 250 Lb springs on the front, remove the sway bar and it probably will roll about the same as it does now.
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